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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
With the steering box mounted in place, I can now figure out just how the steering arm will fit.
Here I'm turning down the area of the pinion shaft for the arm to fit onto it.
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The excess part of the shaft is cut off and the arm it mounted onto it.
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The drag link need to be extended about 7 inches. I've cut off the one end and have turned down a piece of 5/8 threaded rod to fit into it.
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The threaded rod is brazed and I'm going to drill and tap one end of the piece of 7/8 diameter steel rod to screw onto it.
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the other end of the 7/8 steel rod is drilled out to fit over the drag link. This is welded onto it and then it is primed.
NOTE .. the curve in the drag link.
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The drag link is mounted in place to complete the steering.
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This is why there is a curve in the drag link. It allows the wheels to be turned to the right a little more.
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If I had built this tractor myself, I certainly wouldn't have used this style of steering.
I would have had a pitman arm extending straight out about 6 inches from the front of the tractor.
Then I would have mounted a bell-crank with 6 inch arms on the front corner of the frame with one arm pointing forward and the other arm pointing out to the side.
The drag link from the steering box would have attached to the arm on the bell-crank sticking out to the side.
Another drag link would go from the forward arm on the bell-crank to the steering arm in the center.
This would allow the front wheels to be able to turn even farther then they are able to now without having to have a bend in the drag link.

However, the tractor was built with these extra long pitman arms on the front and on the steering box with just the one drag link. It is noticeably a part of the original design so I want to keep it if I can.

2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
The mount for the pivot shaft for the brake and clutch pedals is bolted to the underside of the frame.
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I'm using model-A pedals and they had to be straightened out to fit the tractor.
The stock model-A pedals are on the left and the modified pedals are on the right.
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Here's how the look on the tractor.
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On a side note. ........
Remember the Simplex Servi-Cycle that I built to put up for sale ?
Here it is all packed up and ready to be shipped out to Seattle Washington tomorrow.
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Packing materials Wood Gas Automotive exterior Rectangle

2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I have been hunting for a buggy seat for the tractor about two months now.
Any that I could afford their asking price have been so far away that the shipping cost was outrages.
The ones that were close enough for me to go pick up have all been priced too high to start with.

This one just showed up on ebay today with the asking price that I can afford and it is located only about 60 miles from where my daughter lives in Ohio.
She just bought it for me and will bring it with her the next time she comes down for a visit.
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Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Rectangle Composite material

2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #84 ·
I pressed in new bushings in both pedals.
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This is the outside lever for the cross shaft on the clutch linkage.
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It fits into the pivot bracket that is mounted thru the frame.
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A short linkage rod connects it to the clutch pedal.
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I did not have a piece of round stock large enough for what I need to make the hub for the lever on the inside of the cross shaft. So I turned down two pieces of pipe so they fit inside each other. Then I fit them over a piece of 1 inch bar stock.
I drilled a hole down thru the pieces and pressed a pin into it with the outside of the pin braised on both ends.
The center is drilled out and reamed to fit onto the cross shaft.
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The lever is pressed onto the hub and welded in place.
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this is positioned on the crass shaft and a spot of weld holds everything together. Then I drilled and tapped a 5/16-18 threaded hole so half of it is on the crass shaft and the other half is on the hub.
With a set screw threaded into the hole, it is just like a key to keep the hub from rotating around the cross shaft and the threads keep it from sliding along the shaft.
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The cross shaft is mounted back in place and a square head set screw is tightened down into the 5/16 threaded hole.
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The linkage arm is then made up to go from the inside lever up to the clutch throw-out arm.
This is the position of the pedal with the clutch engaged.
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And with the clutch arm pulled all the way back as far as it will go.
The clutch pedal will only have to move about two thirds of this distance for the clutch to work.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Brakes are next. I've made up two " Z " shaped brackets for holding the 5/8 diameter steel rod that the brake rocker shafts will pivot on.
One bracket is welded onto the left side of the frame.
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And the other is welded to the right side with the 5/8 rod extending between them.
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These are the parts for the equalizing lever that will allow the same pressure to be applied to each brake.
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This is how it looks when all assembled together.
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Forming a " U " shape support bracket of flat stock.
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Drilling and reaming a 5/8 diameter hole thru both sides.
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The long side of the bracket is cut off and a piece of angle iron is fit to it that will bolt up to the bellhousing on the engine.
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With this bracket bolted to the bellhousing, the 5/8 diameter rod is supported by the two holes in the sides of the " U " shape bracket with the equalizer lever mounted between them.
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The brake rod is mounted to the lever on one end with the other end mounted to the lever on the brake pedal ( under the clutch throw-out rod ).
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Two sleeves are made up from 1 inch OD steel tube with brass bushings in each end.
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they are assembled on the 5/8 rod with the equalizer lever in between them to make up the cross shaft assembly for the brakes
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A lever is welded onto each tube that rides up against the cross bar on the equalizer lever.
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This is the position of the levers with the movement being the same on both brakes.
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This shows how the crossbar will maintain equal pressure on both levers even if one side has to move more than the other.
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The assembly is mounted back up under the tractor.
I've ordered some 3/8-24 fine threaded rod for using on the brake rods going back to the wheels so I won't be able to finish hooking up the brakes until it comes in.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 ·
While I'm waiting for parts .. I've mounted the manifold on the engine.
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And the carburetor.
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the exhaust is fixed up with w U-shape pipe so it points straight up.
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There is a bracket bolted to the gas tank frame that supports the outer part of the exhaust pipe.
I don't want to use a flapper rain cap on this exhaust so the bottom of the U-shape pipe has a 1/8 diameter hole drilled into it so any water that gets in on a rainy day can drain back out.
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Here you can see how the support bracket is welded to the pipe clamp.
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This air cleaner housing is off a Alis Chalmers tractor.
I cut the outlet pipe off that came straight out from the side of the housing
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The hole in the housing is cut out farther and a piece of pipe is trimmed to fit into it so the outlet will come out at a 90 degree angle from what it use to.
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The new outlet pipe is welded onto the side of the housing and the finished air cleaner is mounted onto the tractor.
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The outlet pipe now comes out under the gas tank.
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The air cleaner is fastened to the side of the gas tank shroud with two bolts.
Cylinder Gas Machine Nut Pipe

2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Working on the intake air tube that will go down to the carburetor. I used a freeze plug to cap one end on a piece of exhaust pipe.
Then I cut a notch in it and also in another piece of pipe so they will fit together.
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The two pieces are welded together.
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this fits over the outlet pipe on the air cleaner.
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the open end is flush with the front of the gas tank.
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Using a couple of elbows, I formed up the rest of the pipe that goes down to the carburetor. The one end is larger so it slides over the piece that fits onto the air cleaner.
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The finished air pipe is mounted in place.
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The lower end slips onto the carburetor.
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Here's how it looks when fit together under under the gas tank.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #90 ·
The parts came in to finish the brakes.
The levers are welded on the outside of the two cross shafts.
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The crass shafts are mounted back under the tractor and the rods are made up to go back to the brake levers on the rear hubs.
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With both the clutch and brakes hooked up, the two pedals are adjusted so the are even with each other.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
It's hard to get a clear view of how a project is looking while it is still in the garage with all the stuff scattered around it. I like to put it outside once in awhile just to make sure that everything is blending together alright.

If I need to make any changes in the design, it's a lot easier to do that now than after everything is completely finished.
I'm pleased with how it sits so the work will continue on schedule.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Like the earlier Ford model-T, the 1928 thru 1931 Ford model-A had finger levers on the steering column for operating the spark advance and the throttle.
The model-A also had a foot pedal for the throttle ( the model-T did not have a foot pedal ).

I have a Model-T steering column that I had thought of using on this tractor but it would have to be shortened a lot.
The model-T has planetary reduction gears right under the steering wheel. Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Eyelash Font

The gear reduction would be increased if the column is hooked to a regular steering box. This would make it so the steering wheel would have to be rotated completely around a lot in order to turn the tractor.

I decided that rather than destroy a good model-T steering column, I would just make my own column and attach it to the original gear box on the tractor so it would steer with the normal amount of steering wheel rotations.

So that brings me to the problem of making the spark advance and throttle linkage. I could make the two levers that go on the side of the steering column, like on the model-T and the model-A, but that would take a lot of effort and because of the location of the steering in relation to the engine, it would take some fancy linkage.
The simplest solution is to use cable linkage on both of them.

These are the disassembled parts for two universal throttle cable levers. Throttle cable levers like these were available back when this tractor was first built.
There are also two pieces of steel rod with one end flattened.
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Those rods are brazed onto the lever arms.
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The mounting brackets for the levers are trimmed down and brazed onto a piece of steel channel ( the steel channel is part of a model-T running board bracket ).
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The levers are bolted onto the brackets and the lower part of the steel channel is cut off.
This gives me a pair of finger control levers that look correct for the year range of the tractor.
The short lever is for the spark control and the longer one is the throttle.
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A piece of steel rod with a hole in one end is welded to it.
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This bolts onto the steering column support bracket.
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The end of the short lever is flush with the outside of the steering wheel and the longer one extends out past the steering wheel a little.
This is the position with both levers fully retarded.
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And this is with them fully advanced.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Throttle cable and spark advance cable are hooked up to the control levers under the steering wheel.
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Throttle closed.
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Throttle open.
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Spark retarded.
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Spark advanced.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I went down to TSC and bought a 1/4 drive universal.
This is brazed onto the end of the choke / mixture control sleeve.
Then I took a 3/16 socket and drilled it out to a 1/4 inch hole. This socket is brazed onto the other end of the universal.
The end of the choke / mixture control rod fits into the drilled out socket and is held in place with a cotter pin.
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The choke / mixture control rod is mounted to the underside of the gas tank on a bracket with a nylon bushing in it.
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The knob is rotated to adjust the fuel mixture.
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The rod then rotates the sleeve on the carburetor.
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When the choke is pulled out. ...
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It then pulls the sleeve up on the carburetor to close the choke.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I'm using a dash panel that came on the Ford model-T trucks with the wood cab and I'm making two brackets to mount it onto the top of the transmission.
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This is the back of the panel and the two mounting brackets. They are primed before there bolted together.
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Checking to see how it will look with the switch plate mounted on the dash panel.
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The switch plate is painted and fastened onto the primed dash panel.
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I have a model-A hand brake lever that needs to mount onto the side of this Chevy truck transmission to operate the parking brake.
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Mounting a 1/4 inch thick steel plate onto the side of the transmission. This will be the adapter plate for the hand brake lever.
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The finished adapter plate.
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The model-A hand brake lever is bolted onto the adapter plate. This is the full forward position.
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And this is the position of the lever when pulled all the way back.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Finished making the linkage rod for the parking brake.
This is with the brake released.
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And the brake engaged.
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Normally on drum style parking brakes, there is a brake band that goes around the outside of the drum.
This one has two brake shoes. One on the the outside of the drum and one on the inside of the drum.
They grip the drum between them just like a vice grip and it really holds the drum firmly.
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Now to move onto something that I have been waiting to work on for a very long time.
This is a flat belt drive system to put on a model-T for powering equipment around the farm that was driven by belt power from a tractor.
I got this one out of a second hand shop over 40 years ago.
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It is designed to mount on the front of the model-T and is powered off the front of the engine.
It has an extension for the hand crank built into it for starting the engine.
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Obviously, this can't mount on the front of my tractor because the front axle mount and the steering arm are directly in front of the engines crankshaft.
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This is why I went to all the trouble of adapting that Chevy truck transmission to the engine. The transmission has a power takeoff on it so I can mount this on the back of the tractor and drive it with the PTO from the transmission.

First thing is to start taking it apart so I can clean it up.
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I'm very pleased to see that the gears and bushings look really good.
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With this being mounted on the back, I won't need the hand crank so that is removed and the hole will be plugged later on.
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The inside cleaned up good.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #99 ·
The flat belt pulley assembly is designed to mount onto the drop center part of the front cross frame of the model-T.
It just so happens that I have one of those frame sections up on the storage racks. It is now welded onto the end of the rear frame rails.
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Starting to fit the pulley drive housing mounts to the frame.
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It is now bolted onto the frame.
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The pulley is set so it hangs outside of the side frame rail.
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There is a 5/8 threaded hole in the casting close to the pulley that has a stud threaded into it. I made up a bracket with a hole in it for the stud to fit thru and it is welded to the frame.
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There is a nut on either side of this bracket so they can be tightened up to support the pulley housing.
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A universal joint is mounted on the drive shaft.
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And the shaft is set back into the housing.
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2,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
Making up the drive shaft to go from the PTO on the side of the transmission back to the flat belt pulley drive unit.
The keyway is machined into the steel shaft and the collar that will fit onto it.
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This hole in the other half of the collar fits onto the shaft on the PTO.
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The collar is slid onto the PTO shaft and the drive shaft extends back under the rear frame crossmember.

There is a shaft coming out of the PTO along side the drive shaft. This engages and dis-engages the PTO by moving it in or out. There will be a hand lever to operate that but I'm not going to make that until after the seat is mounted.

The seat will be here in two weeks.
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Making up a mounting bracket to hold a bearing.
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This bracket bolts onto the back side of the crossmember to support the end of the drive shaft.
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Machining out the universal joint.
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The universal joint and the bearing are mounted onto the end of the driveshaft.
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This is mounted back onto the tractor and a shorter drive shaft is made up to go on back to the pulley drive unit.
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