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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
PB Blaster to the rescue. Shake, spray, & soak. Tap with soft rubber mallet. Shake spray & soak again. Let sit for 15 minutes.

With light taps of the mallet a few times on each side, it came off slow but sure. Fantastic. This piece I will probably take to a machinist for the treatment described above by others re: crack. Another post about left hand side to follow shortly :D

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I couldn't seem to get the drive cone loose, so I pulled the left hand side hub off. Sure wish I saw bruces note first about the small seal in the hub that could get damaged on the axle threads - I did pull the hub straight off so I guess I'll have to inspect that small seal carefully when I can see it well. Here you can see the thrust bearing and outer thrust race, sitting lower than usual in the cavity.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
And here is my left wheel hub. I've soaked it with pb blaster and will try to pull out the drive cone (or tap it out gently from the other side maybe). Once I get the drive cone out (the coupler already slid out easily), I expect I will be able to see the thrust washer behind it, and the small oil seal behind that. What treatment should the axle and these parts get before reassembly? I never did find the missing key (the one between axle and coupler). I need to get the drive collar to a machine shop first, and if that goes ok I need to figure out what parts are worn and get an order in to Dr. Bolens :D

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I did get the drive cone out of that wheel hub finally (moved thrust washer off-center and then tap on it lightly from opposide side, after pb blaster soaking).

The only part I have not taken off yet are the two bronze bearings from the freewheeling hub. Here are two pictures, can I assume the black marks on them means they should be replaced (and one looks chipped at the top)? And if so, I'm not at all sure of the best way to get them out. Very light tapping with a screwdriver suggests they are pressed in the hub tightly and not going to just slide out. They seem too thin to get a pipe of the right size and tap out, so I'm interested in ideas :D

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So here are all the parts removed from my G14 transaxle. I don't have the experience to know which parts are clearly worn and should be replaced and which parts are just fine to put back. Can people offer advice on which parts to replace based on the pics? On most parts I am providing two pics, one of each "side".

FIrst two pics - obviously the 1120129 hex nut we've already seen is worn badly. Instead of filing and adding washers I'll source a new one. I'm assuming the 4 spring washers are ok and dont 'lose their springyness'. The 'special washer' and 'washer' look ok to me too, despite the look of 'lines' on them they are smooth.
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Next two pics - The drive cone and thrust washer look ok to me, but I will definitely replace the coupler as it was wearing against the 1120129 hex nut.
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Next two pics - LH wheel hub. From the side you can see definite color changes to the round thinner portion. These dont "feel" worn or grooved in the least, just different discolored rings. And on the bottom, do those cutouts/ledges look sharp and correct, or clipped/mangled?
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Next two pics - On the axle I notice two "linear gouges". My guess is that these were created when the axle-coupler key broke, and perhaps some shards of the key were pulled under the rotating coupler. Does this require replacing the axle or can I use it as it? I suspect these two gouges are where the coupler rides on the axle, not the oil seal.

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So far I'm thinking I need a coupler, castelated nut, and the missing/shredded axle-coupler key. If you zoom in on these pics is there anything else that really should be replaced?

J
 

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I did get the drive cone out of that wheel hub finally (moved thrust washer off-center and then tap on it lightly from opposide side, after pb blaster soaking).

The only part I have not taken off yet are the two bronze bearings from the freewheeling hub. Here are two pictures, can I assume the black marks on them means they should be replaced (and one looks chipped at the top)? And if so, I'm not at all sure of the best way to get them out. Very light tapping with a screwdriver suggests they are pressed in the hub tightly and not going to just slide out. They seem too thin to get a pipe of the right size and tap out, so I'm interested in ideas :D

View attachment 413612 View attachment 413613
Glad you are getting things apart. If the outer hub is a nice fit on the inner drive hub then I would just leave them be but if they are a loose / sloppy fit then they should be replaced as they do wear as the rear wheels turn and the tractor goes over uneven terrain if the axle nut is not adjusted periodically as the outer hub will slide sideways due to side pressure forces. They normally don't wear a lot as they only act as a wear surface when the free wheeling pin is disengaged and the outer hub rotates o the inner.

You may be able to catch the bushing in the middle (there are two bushings and there is usually a small gap in between them in the center) with a small punch and drive each of the bushings out - work your way around the bushing with a hammer and they will probably move sideways. You could also try your flat screwdriver or a piece of 3/8" round steel tapered and shaped at the end to work into the small gap between the two bushings to catch the edge. Trying to drive them out this way you will only be trying to move half the width of the two bushings whereas pressing on the outside you will be trying to move both bushings at once which will require more force. If you are not planning on saving the bushing you can cut them with a hacksaw blade till you just start to touch the cast hub as this will allow them to collapse inwards to remove the tension of the press fit - the bronze should be fairly easy to cut with the hack saw. You could also see it you can find a socket (or an exhaust pipe adaptor) the right size and use a press to push them out. Just my thoughts and suggestions.
 

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Attached are pictures of the left hand drive hub and axle where it runs off of my 1050 (same transaxle was used) to give you an idea of what they should look like on a tractor that has been in service for 40 years. I would say the left hand inner face drive hub slots on your transmission are definitely worn and there are some wear marks on your axle. You might be able to get someone to repair the worn parts of your drive hub slots so they are nice and square looking again. Some JB weld on the worn area of your axle shaft could build up the the grooves and then sand or file smooth once it has cured or you may wish to get someone to spray weld the worn area and then turn it back down to size. Might also find a good used hub and axle or transaxle for a reasonable price near you. The drive hub and axle may also last a long time in their worn condition so you will have to decide how much money you wish to spend and what you wish to replace or take a chance on. The other parts other than the worn nut and coupler appear to be in decent shape and as you stated you need a new key for the coupler. Just my thoughts.
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The drive cone and thrust washer look ok to me, but I will definitely replace the coupler as it was wearing against the 1120129 hex nut.
View attachment 413624 View attachment 413625 I don't think the coupler would have worn very much in length, so I'm not sure it needs replacement. ...The inside needs to be able to slide freely on the axle shaft with a new key installed. ....The outside diameter needs to be smooth enough for the brass cone to slide freely with the key installed. ....The i.d. of the brass cone needs to be smooth enough to slide freely on the coupler with the key installed. ....De-burring sharp edges with a file and/or emery cloth until everything slides freely should be done with new or your existing parts.

do those cutouts/ledges look sharp and correct, or clipped/mangled?
View attachment 413627 Definitely NOT normal wear! ....Those slots engage the "ears" of the differential gear (inside the transaxle). ....Take a peek inside (use a light) to see if the "ears" are broken or worn excessively. ...The differential side gears are steel, so hopefully the cast-iron wore before the steel gear.

I would try to have the hub repaired (several possible ways to accomplish this) if you can not easily find a used one. .....The quickest, easiest, & cheapest way I can think of is to have new slots milled in a different location. ....I believe if everything is assembled properly, the hub will still be strong enough to live a long life.


Next two pics - On the axle I notice two "linear gouges". My guess is that these were created when the axle-coupler key broke, and perhaps some shards of the key were pulled under the rotating coupler. Does this require replacing the axle or can I use it as it? I suspect these two gouges are where the coupler rides on the axle, not the oil seal.

View attachment 413628 View attachment 413629

From memory, I can't recall just where the small seal rides. ....If it is NOT where the gouges are, then 29Chev's suggestion of JB Weld should be suitable. ....OR, just file down any "high spots" of the roughness. ...The "low spots" shouldn't matter. ...Once assembled correctly, the coupler will not be spinning on the axle shaft.

So far I'm thinking I need a coupler Your call., castelated nut, and the missing/shredded axle-coupler key. If you zoom in on these pics is there anything else that really should be replaced?

IF you decide to replace the 2- #1185646 bronze bushings in the right wheel hub, be sure to press them in squarely! ....They can distort very easily if not done carefully. ....Slightly chamfering the leading edge, and putting a smear of grease on the outside diameter will aid installation (remove the hub from the wheel). ....No special tools are needed. ....This can be done in a vice, or using a block of wood & a hammer - CAREFULLY!

It appears you removed the large seal (#1185426) from the transaxle casing
. ....Be careful when installing it, as they distort easily.

J
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I found a LH hub on ebay that due to such low cost I'm willing to roll the dice on. In the pics it has no obvious signs of wear like mine does but we'll see when it arrives. I've looked at the "bar" inside the transaxle opening and it does not appear worn at all so it seems the cast hub took the hits.

I don't believe I removed the large seal as Bruce suggested I had from the pic?

On the RH side the drive collar is being dropped off at a welder - it may run ok as is but that hairline crack is right at the keyway corner so I'd feel better if that was addressed.

I ordered a few parts from Brian, still looking for a good match for the castellated nut but if worse comes to worse I'll file the one I have and use some class 5 washers or similar so the cotter pin mates with the nut.

Can someone recommend the best way to clean/brighten up the axle and the various parts I've pulled?
 

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Can someone recommend the best way to clean/brighten up the axle and the various parts I've pulled?
You can use a bit of brakekleen or varsol to wash away any grit and oil contamination on the surfaces followed with a scrubbing with some soapy water (dish soap and water) and then rinse off with water. A fine flat file followed by a piece of fine emery cloth can be used to try and smooth up any rough surfaces on the axle and other components followed with a good cleaning and rinsing. Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
ok, understood. The RH side had a sheen of rust discoloration, and I'm sure that was why the drive collar had trouble sliding off (and probably wont yet slide when I put it back on). I figured the axle at least should be oil free and shiny again before I lube and put back together. Apparently, it doesn't need to be shiny again heh. Same for the differential lock springs, cone, coupler, etc.

I'll just lube and put back together then. I may have a question or two when I get to the end play adjustment that was the very start of this adventure but actually glad I went down this path as I've learned a lot thanks to you guys. If weather & schedules permit I'll get around to this next week. The big unknown so far is the cracked drive collar currently at a weld shop. Hopefully it comes back ready for duty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So, some may have heard that St. Louis got some massive flooding. Turns out the USPS distribution center was hit, and my replacement left hand wheel hub is lost. They may find it, but from what they are saying I'm not optimistic. I'm still working on that, but want a safetynet. Does anyone know if this part from a 1250 is the same part as a G14/1453?

www.ebay.com/itm/122711278739
 

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That's not from a 1250, which is a large frame. I'm guessing the seller meant a 1253/1254. Either of those would be the same as your G-14.

I have one from a 1050 that I can spare. Feel free to PM me an offer. I also have a drive collar with a broken freewheel pin retention ear. There are various ways to address that, but at least the keyway isn't cracked.
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