Garden Tractor Forums banner

G14 transaxle, advice?

4K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  turmlos 
#1 ·
Still a newb, but trying hard to learn and increase my skillset on small engines. I suddenly seem to be having more issues with my G14 (engine is tecumseh HH140, at one point in its life a new short block was installed).

For the past couple months, the engine surges/hunts. I suspect a worn out governor spring but haven't really gotten to troubleshoot that yet. The past week or two I noticed that when going up even the slightest incline, the whole tractor would kind of hesitate and then surge forward, almost as if I had touched the brake then let go. I assumed this was still the engine surge problem but today it started not going uphill at all and made a bit of a clicking sound when trying. I had to drive it in reverse all the way to the barn. Methinks this has much to do with the transaxle and nothing to do with that surging engine.

I have been religious about full transaxle oil changes every year, 90w gear oil GL-1. I've never noticed any shavings or anything when changing the oil. it always came out dark but (to my eye) metal-free.

I know zero about transmissions/transaxles - absolutely nothing. So is this something I can easily do some investigation on myself? I'm confident I can take off the seat/fender and top cover of the transaxle, but would have no clue what I'm looking for or what to touch/not-touch. Should I drain the oil completely first so I can see better? Or at my level of skill should I not open it up at all and try to find a shop that will look at it?

Kinda bummed, been trying hard to pamper/baby that G14.

J
 
See less See more
#2 ·
When was the rear axle endplay adjusted last ? Bolens recomened about every 50 hours to check it and adjust . They will start skipping and jerking when the endplay gets too sloppy and the gears are nor properly meshing .
The engine surge could be many things fuel delivery , carb issues ......
 
#3 ·
I have never done it, time to learn. I've read the process and have questions before trying it.

Being newb, I look at the diagram and would have guessed that the castellated nut and cotter pin on each side would keep this from ever getting slop left & right. What exactly allows this left/right movement to increase over a short (50 hours) period of engine time?

I assume the issue is there are gears attached to the middle section of the axle, so left and/or right movement of the axle causes those gears to no longer mesh? I guess it can get far enough off to cause clicking and complete loss of forward movement but reverse still works?

Where is the best lift point for the rear? I have a floor jack but am hesitant to put it right under the bottom cover of the transaxle, worried I could bend the cover and make it leak. Theres very little space to get two jack stands plus the floor jack in there. I thought about using a board between the two attach points, but the gearbox is slightly lower than those two so not sure about that either.

When the instructions in step 3 say "repeat this procedure" referring to the left hand side, I don't follow exactly what gets repeated. After loosening the rh side, it says to tighten lh side "hand tight" and re-cotter pin it then check for binding in rotation, and repeat till just slight binding. Repeat what? It's already hand tight, so make it "more hand tight"? I know I'm mincing words but want to be sure I'm doing it right.

As always, thanks so much for the knowledge and advice folks - really appreciated.

Best,

J
 
#4 ·
I always used a jack at the rear edge of the transaxle center. .....Only need to raise it enough so both tires clear the floor. ...You can always use a piece of wood to span the width of the case & your floor jack.


https://www.gardentractortalk.com/d...1902-bolens-rear-axle-end-play-adjustment.pdf

Also this:
REAR AXLE END PLAY
Excessive axle end play may develop on Bolens Tube Frame 3 and 6 speed gear drive tractors after a period of
usage. Therefore, the end play must be readjusted after approximately each 50 hours of operation to avoid
differential gear separation resulting in premature gear failure.

Owners Manuals supplied with each tractor clearly describe the Rear Axle End Play adjustment but for those
unfamiliar with it this is the procedure for the adjustment:

1. First remove cotter key and loosen R. H castellated nut several turns.

2. Remove cotter key from L.H castellated nut (under posi‐traction hand wheel on tractors so equipped). Then
with rear wheels of tractor raised off the ground, turn L.H. castellated nut hand tight. Then snug up LIGHTLY with
wrench (rocking wheels back and forth as you do so) until the differential gears start to bind. Then, back off the
nut to the first cotter key slot and lock in place with cotter key.

3. Then adjust the R.H. castellated nut using the same procedure. Recheck for excessive binding before locking
R.H. castellated nut with cotter key.

IMPORTANT
The L.H. adjustment must always be performed first as the end play of all differential components and the left
hand wheel hub are controlled by correct adjustment between the axle and L.H castellated nut.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the clarification bruce!

I'm going to use a piece of wood to span the two attachment points in the back. I can't put anything in the center of the axle as the gear box is there and off-center and it's the bottom plate of the gearbox I'm trying to avoid.

I put it up for a moment just to see what it looked like, and I think one could say it's very out of adjustment.

Here is a pic of the left side and the slot is snug. On the right side, the same 'slot' you can actually see light through, it's not snug at all. And on the far right, look at the uneven gap just to the right of the freewheeling pin! Put my hand on the right tire and the whole tire wobbles side to side. The effect is as if on a car a half circle of lugnuts was not attached, its quite loose when floating in air.

Also - being a G14 it has the differential control knob on the LH side. Is it as simple as taking off the snap-ring and unscrewing the knob till it comes off to get to that castellated nut and cotter pin? Anything I need to be aware of when removing it?

I'll proceed with the adjustment and see if I can get it right.
 

Attachments

#6 · (Edited)
Right cotter pin was easy and nut loosens easy. Left pin was hard to get out, and the nut is deffo more than hand tight, I needed a wrench to loosen it. From what I see, I want to ask before proceeding:

Here is the bottom of the LH castellated nut. Is this how it's supposed to look on the bottom or ?
Human body Wood Automotive tire Reptile Sculpture


And also when I put on this nut, this is how it looks when it just gets finger tight...

Helmet Hat Costume hat Fedora Tints and shades


If you can see the cotter pin hole in the pic, notice it just barely outside of the "castellated" top groove, so putting in that cotter pin right now isn't going to hold the nut in place.

I am certain I put the nut on just finger tight. I don't want to proceed further till someone says this isn't a sign of a problem. I have no idea if the nut is going on further than it should cause of the "groove" on the bottom (unless its supposed to be like the top pic), or if the threaded part of the axle has somehow come further outwards than it should? :eek:
 
#7 ·
Wow! ....It's hard to believe the nut could wear that much. ...It almost appears a washer has welded itself to the nut??? ....Replace the nut, or file or grind it flat. ...Was the thrust washer in place or was there none?

In your picture above showing the right side, the wheel hub has 2 bronze bushings (# 1185646) riding on the drive collar (# 1716506). ....Either the bronze bushings are worn and/or the end of the drive collar is broken.

You may or may not have found the parts list for your tractor: https://www.gardentractortalk.com/d...1d75-bolens-1453-01thru-05-g14-parts-list.pdf ....Bronze bushings are reference # 117, Drive collar is reference # 65, Thrust washer is reference # 108, Castlelated nut is reference # 113.

Before trying to adjust the rear axle, I would suggest removing the drive collar from the right hand end of the axle shaft. ...It is keyed to the shaft, and sometimes it is stuck to the axle shaft and does not slide on the axle shaft. ...This can prevent getting proper end-play adjustment. .....The keyway inside the drive collar can get worn and prevent the collar from moving. ....Take care when trying to remove the drive collar. ...It is cast-iron and easily broken if too much force is applied. ....This is especially important if the keyway inside the drive collar is worn.

Once the axle shaft is bare on both ends, clean any rust or roughness. ....Once you are certain the parts slide back on, you can re-assemble and adjust the end play. ....Replace the key if it is worn.
 
#8 ·
I took another look, and several more photos. I don't think anything welded to it. Pretty sure the castle nut really wore like that. You can see signs on the coupling below it, where it looks like it took some bit of wear. The drive cone didn't seem to get rubbed. You can actually see a thread rising up on the inside towards the back/top in that pic.

Tire Automotive tire Light Household hardware Tread


Automotive tire Gas Wood Circle Rim



On the rh side I just took the castlenut and washers off and the tire and freewheeling hub slid right off. You can see the two bronze bearings inside the hub in this pic:

Automotive tire Fixture Gas Circle Auto part


so here it is before I try removing the drive collar (not going to do that tonight though)

Automotive tire Wood Gas Rim Cylinder


And yep, I see that crack in the drive collar. Sheesh. This is gonna get expensive fast isn't it :LOL:

Note to wife: Because the G14 is having trouble and the grass is getting tall, I've been searching craigslist for a Massey Ferguson Model 10 garden tractor ...:ROFLMAO:

Doesn't having 2 of something make you a collector?
 
#9 ·
Just a brief observation. It looks like someone drove in the roll pin that retains the freewheel pin so they could easily remove it. This might have helped lock the collar in place, throwing off end play. It may also make removal difficult. I don't think the coupling on the locking differental side should ever protrude that far, but I could be wrong. Regardless, I think some disassembly and a thorough cleaning are in order.
 
#10 ·
Looking at the picture you posted of the left hand hub it appears that the 1/4" key is missing in the drive coupling - it keeps the drive coupling from rotating on the axle shaft. This may be why the left axle nut shows so much wear as the nut would be rotating with the axle as the tractor moved while the coupling would be free to rotate against the nut without being keyed to the shaft as the hub rotates on the axle shaft unless the outer hand nut is tightened to lock up the differential. The inner keyway should be aligned with the keyway in the axle shaft as it is on my 1050 I believe. You may want to double check that all the components on the left hand side are still there as per the parts list and installed correctly. As stated the worn part of the nut can be filed to flatten the end and then you could use a flat washer or two so that the cotter key will hold the nut in the slots
Automotive tire Gas Rim Machine Automotive wheel system
Helmet Saw Wood Gas Personal protective equipment
Automotive lighting Wood Saw Machine tool Gas
 
#12 · (Edited)
To determine axle wear if it's not obvious, should I just take a micrometer and check it's the same in multiple places?

I have seen 1716507 (axle) available here and there, none currently. But I've never seen the drive collar (1716506) available anywhere (the part that has a crack in it above). Are rebuild parts/kits unobtainium?

Can the coupler on the LH side just be pulled out/off to inspect? I assume I'm at the point based on the above where I should nix endplay adjustment and drain the case and pop the cover to inspect? I'm afraid this is going out of my ability to work on...

I'll search here and google to see if someone posted about their rebuild process with enough pics and text to follow...

J
 
#13 ·
You're doing fine!

The only time I have seen an axle replaced is if it breaks in half. ....I don't think you will see enough wear to justify replacement.

A good 1716506 drive collar is getting harder to find, and if you can find one, it's usually expensive. .....Many have broken into 2 pieces, but yours is still in one piece. ....Your drive collar can probably be repaired.

On the left side, the bronze collar should slide freely on the coupling. ....Grab it with pliers to pull it off. .....The coupling should also slide off the axle shaft, but that may be more difficult.

Once you get things apart, inspect the coupling for a split at each key slot. ...If it is cracked, it should be replaced. ....De-burr any sharp edges, and clean any corrosion or rust. .....De-burr the square keys or replace them.

Before reassembly, make sure the coupling slides freely on & off the axle
with the key installed. ....Make sure the bronze collar slides on & off the coupling easily with the key installed.

Once that is satisfactory, you can install everything on the left side with a new thrust washer if needed.

Were you able to remove the 1716506 drive collar on the RH side?

At this point, there is no need to remove the cover or drain the fluid. .....If there is lube leaking past the seals on either side, then you need to drain the case to replace the seals. ....There are 2 seals on the LH side and 1 seal on the RH side. .....I would not change them unless they are leaking.
 
#14 ·
As Bruce said you are doing fine.

Would not get overly excited about the crack in the 1716506 drive collar as it may have been there for many years. A good welder could V out the crack and then bronze it together or someone who is experienced in welding cast could probably pre heat, weld and cool it afterwards using cast welding rod. Once the crack is welded the outer surface could be filed or sanded to allow the outer hub to slide back onto it. Another way to fix it would be to have someone with a lathe machine a bit off the outer edge at the end and then use a piece of thin wall pipe as a sleeve to press over top to prevent the crack from spreading under pressure from the axle key as it drives the collar. If you replace the inner bushings in the right hand outer hub (if they are worn excessively) then the outer hub should be a nice snug fit on the outside of the drive collar and it will also act like a sleeve to keep the drive collar crack from spreading once the outer hub is in place. I believe Brian offers new bushings for sale if you need them - Bolens Parts :: 1185646 Bolens Bronze wheel hub bearing 118-5646
 
#15 · (Edited)
So I'm back to this project after a few weeks on other honey-dos :D I have a handful of questions, being a little unsure of what I'm doing.

On the right side, I assume that I need to pull the drive pin (64) before the drive collar (65) will slide off the axle. That drive pin doesn't have an opening on the opposite side, so I assume you just grab it with pliers and tug? So that drive pin goes through the collar and into the axle? I need to know before I start pulling on it :D

On the left side, I'm a bit concerned. I grabbed the left wheel and started rocking and pulling slowly towards me. It did come about an inch, and then gear oil started coming out around the wheel hub. I pushed it back and oil stopped leaking, maybe 1/2 cup came out. I have since removed the wheel from the hub, so both wheels are off. Was this a bad thing? I am going to grab the bronze drive cone with pliers and see if it will come out, and after that I'll try the coupler. But I'm nervous about if I messed up by pulling the hub outward then pushing it back. I assume the left wheel hub should stay on during the removal & replacement of the cone & coupler, but if its supposed to come off why all the oil coming out?

On left & right side questions above, I'd appreciate a little confirmation and handholding before I break something :D

The axle does move back and forth, and I've been very careful not to move it hard, very gently, and I can tell at some point it starts meshing up with the gears like I suspect it should. I've been gentle with that :D

Oh and Bruce - you wrote "On the left side, the bronze collar should slide freely on the coupling. ....Grab it with pliers to pull it off. .....The coupling should also slide off the axle shaft, but that may be more difficult. " - I have experienced the opposite. The LH wheel hub is still on (sans wheel), but with pliers I grabbed the coupler and it slid off the axle really wasy. The drive cone though.... isn't budging. Thoughts on extraction method?

J Automotive tire Wheel Tread Tire Automotive wheel system
Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Machine tool Gas
Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part
 
#16 ·
On the right side, I assume that I need to pull the drive pin (64) before the drive collar (65) will slide off the axle. That drive pin doesn't have an opening on the opposite side, so I assume you just grab it with pliers and tug? So that drive pin goes through the collar and into the axle? I need to know before I start pulling on it

Good to ask questions before if unsure. The drive pin should not have to be removed before the drive collar can be slid off - the purpose of the drive pin is to stop the free wheeling pin from sliding in too far and coming out of its hole. It does not usually contact the axle unless someone has driven it in too far. Sometimes moisture gets in between the drive collar and the axle shaft on the right side so it may be stuck on the axle if it has not been moved in a while.

On the left side, I'm a bit concerned. I grabbed the left wheel and started rocking and pulling slowly towards me. It did come about an inch, and then gear oil started coming out around the wheel hub. I pushed it back and oil stopped leaking, maybe 1/2 cup came out. I have since removed the wheel from the hub, so both wheels are off. Was this a bad thing? I am going to grab the bronze drive cone with pliers and see if it will come out, and after that I'll try the coupler. But I'm nervous about if I messed up by pulling the hub outward then pushing it back. I assume the left wheel hub should stay on during the removal & replacement of the cone & coupler, but if its supposed to come off why all the oil coming out?

On the left side when you slid the hub outward the lip of the outer seal in the transaxle would become disengaged from the hub face and some gear lube would leak out if the transaxle was filled to the correct level and it was sitting level. There is also an inner seal on the left side pressed into the hub behind the bronze collar and coupling. Doubt if you hurt anything - if you check out this thread post # 56 it has pictures of what things look like with the left hub removed. Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project
 
#17 ·
Ah I understand now, that 'drive pin' is to keep the freewheeling pin from coming out - not to fix the position of the drive collar on the axle. Makes sense. I don't know if the drive pin was cut off short to allow the freewheeling pin to be removed completely, or if it was driven in too far and may have contacted the axle. Does the hole that holds the drive pin go through to the axle or does the hole stop short? Should I try to remove it slightly before trying to pull off the drive collar (the collar isn't just sliding off, it will need some convincing)? I'd hate to pull the collar off by force and be dragging the shards of the drive pin along the axle on the way out.

On the LH side, should I remove the wheel hub as part of this process and just catch the exiting oil? Or just leave the LH wheel hub in place? The next thing on this side I'd think is removing the drive cone (the coupler already came out easy, but not the cone). Maybe I can slide off the entire LH wheel hub and then tap the drive cone from the other side?

Thanks a ton folks!

J
 
#18 ·
There is no recess for the free wheeling pin to get caught on so it should not be what is holding the right hand hub. You may have to use a puller and a bit of heat (torch) on the hub if it is rusted in place to get it to move. The hub is cast so I do not recommend hammering on it and I would suggest a bearing splitter style plate to catch the inner face of the hub to try pulling on it. If you have an air chisel with a blunt driver you could gently tap the cast with the blunt driver to try and loosen the hub if it is rusted in place but be gentle.

I would suggest removing the left hub (catch the oil) and that way you can inspect the axle shaft and the hub for any wear / damage. You may be able to tap the drive cone out from the inside if you remove the left hub - just be careful you do not damage the inner seal with whatever you use to try and drive the cone out.
 
#19 ·
I had one of those hubs rusted/stuck to the shaft once and had a devil of a time getting it loose. I ended up heating it with an oxy/acetylene torch to break it free. I hope yours isn't stuck that bad! Put the penetrant right to it and let it soak. PB Blaster would be a good one. 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works good too. WD40 is a great product, I use it frequently, but this won't be a situation where it would do much good. IMHO that is. If you have such equipment, put a blunt driver-punch in an air chisel and rattle away on with that a bit. The vibration might help loosen it up. Just thoughts.
 
#20 ·
The right side drive collar is keyed to the axle shaft. ....It may be stuck with rust as others have said. ....I have also had drive collars that were not rusted on the axle shaft, but the internal key lot was worn. ....This prevented the drive collar from sliding straight off. ....If that is the case with yours, you will have to try to rotate the drive collar on the shaft until the heyway slot aligns with the key.

As mentioned: Be VERY careful when trying to remove the drive collar. ....It is cast-iron and can break easily.

If you remove the left side (large hub), you will lose gear lube. ....You also need to de-burr the edges of the hub and the "ears" to prevent damaging the large axle seal when you put the hub back in.
.....The small axle seal (located at the outer end of the large hub) can be damaged by the threads on the end of the axle. ....Avoid "pulling" the hub straight off, but instead "un-screw" the seal on the threads.
.....When reassembling, either "thread" the hub back over the threads, or wrap the threads with thin plastic or foil to prevent the seal from being torn by the threads.


If the seals were not leaking previously, I would not change them at this time. ...If they were damaged during your efforts, then replace them.
 
#21 ·
PB Blaster to the rescue. Shake, spray, & soak. Tap with soft rubber mallet. Shake spray & soak again. Let sit for 15 minutes.

With light taps of the mallet a few times on each side, it came off slow but sure. Fantastic. This piece I will probably take to a machinist for the treatment described above by others re: crack. Another post about left hand side to follow shortly :D

Wood Tool Flooring Sledgehammer Hardwood
 
#22 ·
I couldn't seem to get the drive cone loose, so I pulled the left hand side hub off. Sure wish I saw bruces note first about the small seal in the hub that could get damaged on the axle threads - I did pull the hub straight off so I guess I'll have to inspect that small seal carefully when I can see it well. Here you can see the thrust bearing and outer thrust race, sitting lower than usual in the cavity.

Gas Engineering Auto part Water Automotive tire
Automotive tire Wood Road surface Cannon Gas
Automotive tire Wood Plumbing Gas Motor vehicle
Wood Automotive tire Tire Gas Rim
 
#23 ·
And here is my left wheel hub. I've soaked it with pb blaster and will try to pull out the drive cone (or tap it out gently from the other side maybe). Once I get the drive cone out (the coupler already slid out easily), I expect I will be able to see the thrust washer behind it, and the small oil seal behind that. What treatment should the axle and these parts get before reassembly? I never did find the missing key (the one between axle and coupler). I need to get the drive collar to a machine shop first, and if that goes ok I need to figure out what parts are worn and get an order in to Dr. Bolens :D

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Rim Gas
Tire Automotive tire Wood Gas Rim
 
#24 ·
I did get the drive cone out of that wheel hub finally (moved thrust washer off-center and then tap on it lightly from opposide side, after pb blaster soaking).

The only part I have not taken off yet are the two bronze bearings from the freewheeling hub. Here are two pictures, can I assume the black marks on them means they should be replaced (and one looks chipped at the top)? And if so, I'm not at all sure of the best way to get them out. Very light tapping with a screwdriver suggests they are pressed in the hub tightly and not going to just slide out. They seem too thin to get a pipe of the right size and tap out, so I'm interested in ideas :D

Automotive tire Fluid Plastic bottle Rim Gas
Automotive tire Door Wood Rim Gas
 
#26 ·
Glad you are getting things apart. If the outer hub is a nice fit on the inner drive hub then I would just leave them be but if they are a loose / sloppy fit then they should be replaced as they do wear as the rear wheels turn and the tractor goes over uneven terrain if the axle nut is not adjusted periodically as the outer hub will slide sideways due to side pressure forces. They normally don't wear a lot as they only act as a wear surface when the free wheeling pin is disengaged and the outer hub rotates o the inner.

You may be able to catch the bushing in the middle (there are two bushings and there is usually a small gap in between them in the center) with a small punch and drive each of the bushings out - work your way around the bushing with a hammer and they will probably move sideways. You could also try your flat screwdriver or a piece of 3/8" round steel tapered and shaped at the end to work into the small gap between the two bushings to catch the edge. Trying to drive them out this way you will only be trying to move half the width of the two bushings whereas pressing on the outside you will be trying to move both bushings at once which will require more force. If you are not planning on saving the bushing you can cut them with a hacksaw blade till you just start to touch the cast hub as this will allow them to collapse inwards to remove the tension of the press fit - the bronze should be fairly easy to cut with the hack saw. You could also see it you can find a socket (or an exhaust pipe adaptor) the right size and use a press to push them out. Just my thoughts and suggestions.
 
#25 ·
So here are all the parts removed from my G14 transaxle. I don't have the experience to know which parts are clearly worn and should be replaced and which parts are just fine to put back. Can people offer advice on which parts to replace based on the pics? On most parts I am providing two pics, one of each "side".

FIrst two pics - obviously the 1120129 hex nut we've already seen is worn badly. Instead of filing and adding washers I'll source a new one. I'm assuming the 4 spring washers are ok and dont 'lose their springyness'. The 'special washer' and 'washer' look ok to me too, despite the look of 'lines' on them they are smooth.
Automotive tire Font Auto part Rim Circle
Automotive tire Font Auto part Gas Rim


Next two pics - The drive cone and thrust washer look ok to me, but I will definitely replace the coupler as it was wearing against the 1120129 hex nut.
Automotive tire Rim Household hardware Wood Gas
Automotive tire Wood Rim Gas Synthetic rubber


Next two pics - LH wheel hub. From the side you can see definite color changes to the round thinner portion. These dont "feel" worn or grooved in the least, just different discolored rings. And on the bottom, do those cutouts/ledges look sharp and correct, or clipped/mangled?
Wood Automotive tire Flooring Floor Gas
Yellow Door Gas Circle Composite material


Next two pics - On the axle I notice two "linear gouges". My guess is that these were created when the axle-coupler key broke, and perhaps some shards of the key were pulled under the rotating coupler. Does this require replacing the axle or can I use it as it? I suspect these two gouges are where the coupler rides on the axle, not the oil seal.

Wood Cylinder Bicycle part Rim Gas
Tire Automotive tire Hood Bicycle tire Tread


So far I'm thinking I need a coupler, castelated nut, and the missing/shredded axle-coupler key. If you zoom in on these pics is there anything else that really should be replaced?

J
 
#28 ·
The drive cone and thrust washer look ok to me, but I will definitely replace the coupler as it was wearing against the 1120129 hex nut.
View attachment 413624 View attachment 413625 I don't think the coupler would have worn very much in length, so I'm not sure it needs replacement. ...The inside needs to be able to slide freely on the axle shaft with a new key installed. ....The outside diameter needs to be smooth enough for the brass cone to slide freely with the key installed. ....The i.d. of the brass cone needs to be smooth enough to slide freely on the coupler with the key installed. ....De-burring sharp edges with a file and/or emery cloth until everything slides freely should be done with new or your existing parts.

do those cutouts/ledges look sharp and correct, or clipped/mangled?
View attachment 413627 Definitely NOT normal wear! ....Those slots engage the "ears" of the differential gear (inside the transaxle). ....Take a peek inside (use a light) to see if the "ears" are broken or worn excessively. ...The differential side gears are steel, so hopefully the cast-iron wore before the steel gear.

I would try to have the hub repaired (several possible ways to accomplish this) if you can not easily find a used one. .....The quickest, easiest, & cheapest way I can think of is to have new slots milled in a different location. ....I believe if everything is assembled properly, the hub will still be strong enough to live a long life.


Next two pics - On the axle I notice two "linear gouges". My guess is that these were created when the axle-coupler key broke, and perhaps some shards of the key were pulled under the rotating coupler. Does this require replacing the axle or can I use it as it? I suspect these two gouges are where the coupler rides on the axle, not the oil seal.

View attachment 413628 View attachment 413629

From memory, I can't recall just where the small seal rides. ....If it is NOT where the gouges are, then 29Chev's suggestion of JB Weld should be suitable. ....OR, just file down any "high spots" of the roughness. ...The "low spots" shouldn't matter. ...Once assembled correctly, the coupler will not be spinning on the axle shaft.

So far I'm thinking I need a coupler Your call., castelated nut, and the missing/shredded axle-coupler key. If you zoom in on these pics is there anything else that really should be replaced?

IF you decide to replace the 2- #1185646 bronze bushings in the right wheel hub, be sure to press them in squarely! ....They can distort very easily if not done carefully. ....Slightly chamfering the leading edge, and putting a smear of grease on the outside diameter will aid installation (remove the hub from the wheel). ....No special tools are needed. ....This can be done in a vice, or using a block of wood & a hammer - CAREFULLY!

It appears you removed the large seal (#1185426) from the transaxle casing
. ....Be careful when installing it, as they distort easily.

J
 
#27 ·
Attached are pictures of the left hand drive hub and axle where it runs off of my 1050 (same transaxle was used) to give you an idea of what they should look like on a tractor that has been in service for 40 years. I would say the left hand inner face drive hub slots on your transmission are definitely worn and there are some wear marks on your axle. You might be able to get someone to repair the worn parts of your drive hub slots so they are nice and square looking again. Some JB weld on the worn area of your axle shaft could build up the the grooves and then sand or file smooth once it has cured or you may wish to get someone to spray weld the worn area and then turn it back down to size. Might also find a good used hub and axle or transaxle for a reasonable price near you. The drive hub and axle may also last a long time in their worn condition so you will have to decide how much money you wish to spend and what you wish to replace or take a chance on. The other parts other than the worn nut and coupler appear to be in decent shape and as you stated you need a new key for the coupler. Just my thoughts.
Gas Automotive wheel system Machine Circle Auto part
Wood Tool Gas Auto part Nut
Automotive tire Vehicle brake Bicycle tire Bicycle part Wood
 
#29 ·
I found a LH hub on ebay that due to such low cost I'm willing to roll the dice on. In the pics it has no obvious signs of wear like mine does but we'll see when it arrives. I've looked at the "bar" inside the transaxle opening and it does not appear worn at all so it seems the cast hub took the hits.

I don't believe I removed the large seal as Bruce suggested I had from the pic?

On the RH side the drive collar is being dropped off at a welder - it may run ok as is but that hairline crack is right at the keyway corner so I'd feel better if that was addressed.

I ordered a few parts from Brian, still looking for a good match for the castellated nut but if worse comes to worse I'll file the one I have and use some class 5 washers or similar so the cotter pin mates with the nut.

Can someone recommend the best way to clean/brighten up the axle and the various parts I've pulled?
 
#30 ·
Can someone recommend the best way to clean/brighten up the axle and the various parts I've pulled?
You can use a bit of brakekleen or varsol to wash away any grit and oil contamination on the surfaces followed with a scrubbing with some soapy water (dish soap and water) and then rinse off with water. A fine flat file followed by a piece of fine emery cloth can be used to try and smooth up any rough surfaces on the axle and other components followed with a good cleaning and rinsing. Just my thoughts.
 
#31 ·
ok, understood. The RH side had a sheen of rust discoloration, and I'm sure that was why the drive collar had trouble sliding off (and probably wont yet slide when I put it back on). I figured the axle at least should be oil free and shiny again before I lube and put back together. Apparently, it doesn't need to be shiny again heh. Same for the differential lock springs, cone, coupler, etc.

I'll just lube and put back together then. I may have a question or two when I get to the end play adjustment that was the very start of this adventure but actually glad I went down this path as I've learned a lot thanks to you guys. If weather & schedules permit I'll get around to this next week. The big unknown so far is the cracked drive collar currently at a weld shop. Hopefully it comes back ready for duty.
 
#32 ·
So, some may have heard that St. Louis got some massive flooding. Turns out the USPS distribution center was hit, and my replacement left hand wheel hub is lost. They may find it, but from what they are saying I'm not optimistic. I'm still working on that, but want a safetynet. Does anyone know if this part from a 1250 is the same part as a G14/1453?

www.ebay.com/itm/122711278739
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top