Garden Tractor Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! I grew up on farm tractors. To prepare a field we used the plow, disk, and drag. Those same attachments are available, in smaller versions, for garden tractors. They also make nice pull behind tillers. My question is this; doesn't a tiller do the same job? Is there any need to also own the other 3?

Thanks, Paul.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,364 Posts
I have all the implements your talking about and after years of use I have developed some thoughts on what's needed and whats not.

A small disc for garden tractors because of their light weight doesn't want to go down in the ground until it's been broken up with something like a plow. Even then you may have to add weight to the disc. A digger is the same unless the soil is loose in nature. I would plow and then disc. The disc I use is 6.5 ft. wide and pulled by a 30 hp tractor just because it happens to be here. The plows used behind garden tractors are very effective. A garden tractor drag is a good tool to have and works well. I now have a pull behind tiller and like it much more than the mounted one on the CC1250. This is for two reasons, First is that the tractor pulling the tow behind is a standard gear drive and is very easy to keep it moving at a steady speed. You don't have to continually be manipulating the hydro. Second is that it's narrower and works well in the corn rows.

I usually disc in old horse manure in the fall and leave it dormant until spring. Then I will disc or dig it in the spring followed by the drag. A couple weeks later after the weeds start to germinate I will till the garden. Something I started doing a couple a years ago is to roll the garden before seeding. This makes marking the rows very easy and the Earthway planter really likes the smooth surface.
 

·
Tractorfanatics.com
Joined
·
10,292 Posts
Like Hank, my soil is sandy so a tiller is the only tool needed. If I had hard clay soil, I would add a plow to the equipment lineup.

In two different landscape projects, I used a tiller to loosen the soil first. In the retaining wall adventure, I used a box scraper to move the loose soil behind the wall. For a shrub line, I tilled and removed a foot of dirt in a dish 5 foot wide so I could have room for mulch afterwards. I used a 3 point scoop to move the loose soil to various points all over the yard and a neighbors to get rid of that dirt.

Tire Wheel Property Vehicle Window


Tire Wheel Land vehicle Sky Plant
Tire Wheel Vehicle Plant Automotive tire
Plant Tree Grass Road surface Asphalt
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,547 Posts
Darn right there's a need for the plow disk and drag! It's called seat time????

I have thought of the idea of a farm run solely with garden tractors. Grow everything a "normal size" farm does (corn wheat beans hay row crops etc) only on gt scale fields. Sell it all off the end of the driveway. To make this possible I probably could rent all the big fields the farm has "here". Bigger guys are always looking for more land.

I would have all the regular farm stuff on a garden tractor scale... Plow cultivator disk harrow seed drill mower hay rake baler forage harvester dump wagons combine and gravity wagons...

Just a dream though...

Back to the original question though! Around "here" I would use the plow disk and drag. Or just the plow and tiller... Whatever works for me may not work for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,192 Posts
A key consideration is the soil type. My soil has many large rocks in it. I had to dig off the top 2' to 3' and run it through a 3" screen to get it workable. I added lots of aged cow manure and tilled with a Troybilt. I rarely go more than 2' without having to stop to throughout(as far as I can) some 1"+ rocks that have made the tiller jump. When I eventually get the garden in god enough shape, I will till with my Allis or Bolens tractor mounted tillers. I'm considering building a 1" screan to eliminate many of the rocks that I still hit. It would take a couple of days to dig and sreen everything but may be worth it in the long run.

BTW every spring the frost pushes up a new crop of Connecticut potatoes(rocks). Good Luck, Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
697 Posts
I have fairly heavy soil here but virtually no rocks. I have been using just a walk behind tiller with good results. I also turn pigs loose in the garden after the first frost kills everything off. They do a pretty good job of fall plowing for me, although they don't leave it very smooth. I have bought a plow and a tiller for the GT, They both need a bit of work, but I hope to try plowing before tilling this year.

Jim
 

·
Rust Wrangler
Joined
·
321 Posts
The soil here is called Brookston silty clay loam. It works easily when the moisture content is just right but is nearly impossible otherwise. It goes from muddy to concrete-like very quickly. I turn the soil in the spring with the 12" Brinly plow followed later with the tiller. The garden gets covered with a blanket of shredded leaves in the late fall followed by another tilling. Lots of quality seat time sweeping all the leaves. I use a 42" rear discharge deck running in the transport position to shred with the sweeper in tow to collect the leaves. Tons of shredding and dumping involved.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle
Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Automotive tire
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Either way works and I find its more of a preference. I have a steady supply of sandstone coming up so run plow,disc and cultivators to save on tines belts and shear pins. I also find that the use of tillers long term leads to more organics needing to be turned in. Here in western NY anyhow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Darn right there's a need for the plow disk and drag! It's called seat time

I have thought of the idea of a farm run solely with garden tractors. Grow everything a "normal size" farm does (corn wheat beans hay row crops etc) only on gt scale fields. Sell it all off the end of the driveway. To make this possible I probably could rent all the big fields the farm has "here". Bigger guys are always looking for more land.

I would have all the regular farm stuff on a garden tractor scale... Plow cultivator disk harrow seed drill mower hay rake baler forage harvester dump wagons combine and gravity wagons...

Just a dream though...

Back to the original question though! Around "here" I would use the plow disk and drag. Or just the plow and tiller... Whatever works for me may not work for you.
That is exactly my intention for my retirement job! Even gonna have miniature cattle (Ebus).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Greasy6020

·
DB restorer
Joined
·
2,850 Posts
well its interesting. The tiller probably has a place in a garden , but to me their more the anti-Christ and a helpful item. The key to gardening with GT's isn't just the plowing, disking and leveling of the soil, but to be able to keep and control what grows in it during and afterwards. This is where the tiller bites the dust so to speak, as it just churns a lot of weed seeds that sprout again and make you almost have to start over. You need to be able to cultivate and cultivate multiple times. you also need to get the rows as narrow as you can to take advantage of natural plant shading of the earth , to keep those weeds at bay. What your looking to do is turn no more dirt than you have to, to the point that your really making a mulch of dust. A cultivator properly setup will do this, a tiller never will be able to get there. You will get most of your "ride time" just doing the vator work, and if you have several different ones setup to do between the row or over the row you get much more time. There are even setups to do in the row work, but that goes a little beyond what this posting is about.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top