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Went out and looked this morning and right now it is covered in snow and the wind is up so it may be a day or two before I get a chance to get measurements.

I don't believe that anyone makes the six spline yoke new anymore - I talked to a chap at Neapco several years ago and the way he spoke they supplied the yoke originally but obsoleted it in the late 1990's. They are still available used and worst comes to worst the spline can be cut and placed inside another yoke. This article shows how I repaired an old one that the splines were worn on and the insert I made could just as easily have been placed in side a new yoke that had the inside turned to the correct O.D.

http://gardentractortalk.com/articles.html/_/tech-tips-how-to/how-to-repair-worn-splines-in-a-bolens-tube-fra-r204
Hey Stew,

I found that link yesterday searching for someone who I remember had repaired some splines. As it turns out, it was you! Couldn't log in from my phone to thank you for the efforts you put to document everything you do. Although after looking through it, I soon realized at the moment, that is out of my reach too. I don't own, have access to or know how to operate a lathe but I did download it for future use. Ill keep looking for a work around or buying a used one on ebay for now.

And thanks again for taking the time to help me out. No rush on the drive shaft if the conditions are not favorable. Gives me some time to slowly collect the other parts needed.

and

Merry Christmas!!!

GhoSt
 

· A Little Off Plumb
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Here are pictures and measurements of the driveshaft on my tiller. The two end yokes are 2-1/2" long from the end to the centre of the u joint cap. The tiller end is round with a keyway I believe and the other end is 6 spline to match the PTO shaft - you should be able to get the correct diameter and key way size you require from the input shaft on the tiller. The driveshaft is 33-9/16" centre of u joint cap to centre of u joint cap. When I mount the tiller on the tractor I do not put a pin in to hold the front yoke onto the PTO shaft as this is where the yoke slides as the tiller goes up and down.

If the yoke on the tiller end is the correct size for your tiller shaft and the yoke on the other end is the correct size to accept a u joint that will fit the 6 spline yoke you use you may be able to adapt it by cutting it to the correct length - just a thought. If you do this make sure you align the eyes of the yokes at each end of the shaft so they are in line with each other - other wise they will fight as the shaft rotates.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Here are pictures and measurements of the driveshaft on my tiller. The two end yokes are 2-1/2" long from the end to the centre of the u joint cap. The tiller end is round with a keyway I believe and the other end is 6 spline to match the PTO shaft - you should be able to get the correct diameter and key way size you require from the input shaft on the tiller. The driveshaft is 33-9/16" centre of u joint cap to centre of u joint cap. When I mount the tiller on the tractor I do not put a pin in to hold the front yoke onto the PTO shaft as this is where the yoke slides as the tiller goes up and down.

If the yoke on the tiller end is the correct size for your tiller shaft and the yoke on the other end is the correct size to accept a u joint that will fit the 6 spline yoke you use you may be able to adapt it by cutting it to the correct length - just a thought. If you do this make sure you align the eyes of the yokes at each end of the shaft so they are in line with each other - other wise they will fight as the shaft rotates.

Hope this helps
Awesome, thanks Stew! I can work with this to figure out what I want to do.

GhoSt
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Hey Guys,

Do any of you know what the weight limit is for the sleeve hitch brackets on the tractor is? I bought a homade rake that is 5ft wide, about 4ft long and weighs probably around 80lbs. Don't want to put it on and have something snap on the tractor.

When I get home I'll add pictures of it because I can't figure it out on my phone.

Thanks for looking

Ghost
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Alright you guys, sorry for the crappy pics but here is the rake!

20180418_200409_zpsjsxmjba4.jpg


20180418_200426_zpsontjsiq2.jpg


I think I will eventually in the near future add some tires like this

lr0560.2_zpschsos5vr.jpg


But make them be able to lift off of the ground to be able to use the full weight of the rake.

Once I have the tires on the rake, I think I will try my hand on making the dump bucket that attaches to the sleeve hitch.

Thanks for looking guys

GhoSt
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Hey Guys,

So I gave the rake a try!

DSCN3168JPG_zpsc7nhiud1.jpg


DSCN3166JPG_zpsxvwkhgzc.jpg


DSCN3165JPG_zpsfkwws9eh.jpg


DSCN3170JPG_zpsm7abyyzw.jpg


Building up a small pile

DSCN3175JPG_zps3g2szubb.jpg


but she still has a lot to go!

DSCN3177JPG_zpssixix74y.jpg


I think it worked great but I found myself having to put my whole weight on the bar trying to lift it up after about the 3rd time. Eventually, I started getting off and lifting it up on top of the pile I was dragging to help out. For those that have a rake, would you be able to tell me what length you have between the sleeve hitch pin and the pivot pin/bolt? I know putting tires will help but I feel like that length of the bar might be a little to long as well.

Thanks for looking,

GhoSt
 

· Mark J.
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2,378 Posts
Looks good on the tractor. I want one of those rakes but I was going to use it for rocks. That's what I typically see them called "rock rake".
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
I second that, I would start by bring it in by a third and see how it operates. Then you can decide if you need to tweak it further.

Good luck, its looking good :thumbs:
If you shorten that tongue, it will lift easier! You've got it way back there!
Awesome. Thanks guys! I'll do that.

GhoSt
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Hey Guys,

I bought some hiller shovels similar to brinlys bb-221 for the tool bar. Considering that I will need a cultivator sooner rather then later, I figured the dump cart can wait since I can use my wheel barrel in the mean time and instead try to make me something as close to brinly's toolbar as possible since I think is pretty neat. So I went online and found a thread that had most of the measurements and this is what I came up with:

Brinly%20TT-100%20Copy_zps1phkaxtj.png


Haven't put the dimensions on it yet but I will be working on this first after I am done with the rake or probably while working on the rake. Tooo many holes to drill. Think Ill drill a little here and a little there lol

Anyways,

Thanks for looking

GhoSt

Dimension source: http://www.mytractorforum.com/78-lawn-garden-tractor-accessories/174869-brinly-tt100.html
 

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166 Posts
Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Unless you already have the angle iron, just buy a piece with all the holes already drilled. I have several pieces in the barn, and it's fairly tough to drill through, considering its gauge.
Can you buy the angle iron predrilled or are you telling me to have it made somewhere? I had already sent a drawing to a small fab shop that has done some minor stuff for me to see if it is worth it to me but if I can buy it already predrilled the better!

Thanks in advance,

Jesse
 

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Can you buy the angle iron predrilled or are you telling me to have it made somewhere? I had already sent a drawing to a small fab shop that has done some minor stuff for me to see if it is worth it to me but if I can buy it already predrilled the better!

Thanks in advance,

Jesse
Buy it pre drilled, if you can find it in the proper gauge. Even if what you find is on the light side, you can weld in some reinforcement rods to strenghten it. I had some fairly tough pieces (for their size... think the legs of old-school stand-alone garage shelving) that I used to hang the rear attachment point when I "modified" my '65 Jake to hold my '60 Cub plow, and the stuff burnt up the metal blades on my Sawzall cutting it. If you gotta buy it, buy it drilled, and save the expense of having it drilled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Buy it pre drilled, if you can find it in the proper gauge. Even if what you find is on the light side, you can weld in some reinforcement rods to strenghten it. I had some fairly tough pieces (for their size... think the legs of old-school stand-alone garage shelving) that I used to hang the rear attachment point when I "modified" my '65 Jake to hold my '60 Cub plow, and the stuff burnt up the metal blades on my Sawzall cutting it. If you gotta buy it, buy it drilled, and save the expense of having it drilled.
Hey Duke,

Thanks for the recommendation. Unfortunately locally I couldn't find anything really worth using plus the added cost of steel to reinforce what I do have available and well, aesthetics too if I am to be honest. I think I will continue on with my original plan. I was given a quote to have the part cut via water jet and the price, I don't think, isn't to bad for a one off piece.

Thanks again,

GhoSt
 

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
Got the rest of the steel to finish it off :D

DSCN3190_zpsevmtb7fn.jpg


Only thing different is, instead of using a 5/8" top bar, I'll be using a 3/4" because that is all they had. Hopefully I'll finish it up this weekend. Not sure how I am going to make the shanks but I bought the 3/4" round stock for them too.

Thanks for looking,

GhoSt
 
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