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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Home built wood splitter that my Dad and I built back 40 plus years ago. The B&S motor [ brand new at the time] we put on it is getting a bit tired. I re-rung it and freshened the valves about 15 years ago and its gotten a bit tired again. Time for a new motor. I saw that Harbor Freight had a sale on these 6.5 hp motors so I decided to try one. Had to lay out and drill/tap new mounting holes. Fairly easy project to do. I have a new pump mounting bracket ordered as the one used on the other motor has a larger bolt circle. New bracket should be here in a few days. I really don't see any issues with switching to this new motor. Just one tiny piddly thing I found was the oil drain holes aren't tapped for pipe thread, they use a metric bolt for the plug. I was going to install a short pipe nipple and cap so the oil would drain past the edge of the mount plate. It's not a huge deal, I can just use a scrap of cardboard for a throw away drain spout. Got the motor bolted down and will probably put oil and gas in it tomorrow and give it a short test run. Fingers crossed.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
These 6.5 hp engines are very common in Germany too because you get them for about 100 EUR. They get good reviews wherever they are used.
However - all new engines are ohv-engines while the old ones (normally) where side valve engines.
No doubt, the ohv is much more efficient than a sv. But I am wondering if more mechanic can cause more trouble over the years... But I guess this is a hypothetical question.

By the way: Where does the center beam came from. "Holzhauer Maschine" is German....
I'm not 100% sure but seem to remember Dad getting the I-beam through one of his friends that worked for our local highway department. It possibly was once part of a bridge or something. My dad was full blooded German. Born and raised here in the USA though. My grandparents were fluent in both English and German. Dad knew a little German, me, not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the info. I'll keep an eye on the fuel shut off. I put oil and gas in it today and it started on the first pull of the cord. Full choke and just a wee bit of throttle, it took right off. Nice! I let it run about 5 minutes about 1/4 throttle. Tried a restart about 10 minutes later and it started again with one pull. Didn't use the choke, just left throttle at low idle. I didn't attempt any changes with the oil drain yet. I did figure out the throttle cable routing though. I fished a small bolt up through a hole in the muffler heat guard and attached a strap that anchors a hold down clip for the cable. I know there will be a bit of heat transfer but not sure exactly how much. If this proves to be a bad idea, I can buy a longer cable and route it around behind the motor I believe. This just a first try using the original cable. I always found it handy to have throttle control right there next to the hydraulic control lever. So far, the only modification I have done to the motor is lift the plastic fuel strainer out of the tank. With the strainer in there you can't look down in the tank and tell how much there is unless the tank is full. I guess I'm just old school. So--first impression is good. It's always nice when a motor is an easy starter!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I noticed that the motor has a Torch brand spark plug in it. Had one of those fail in a portable generator after about 30 hours of use. Must have burned out internally, wouldn't spark at all. I replaced it with a Champion and have had no issues since. I saw in the Predator owners manual that NGK brand spark plug was listed along with Torch as replacements. I know that Champion and Autolite plugs cross reference too. I stopped at the auto parts store today and bought a NGK plug. I figure I'll just put the new plug it just because. I took a look at the box the plug came in and NGK is a Japanese company, I seem to remember that fact from buying NGK plugs in the past. Plug was assembled in Thailand also printed on the box. Now I'm starting to wonder about the quality. I guess I'll find out. I know that is possible to buy a bad spark plug no matter what brand. Have had it happen. Maybe I'm over-thinking things again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No issues with your post at all. Useful information is always welcome with me. I do suspect that a NGK will be of better quality than the Torch plug. I have seen several of the original spark plugs in the China knock off motors go bad. I personally have only had the one Torch plug fail and another China made plug ( can’t remember the brand ) that I tried in a chain saw. Helped a fellow camped next to me at a steam/tractor/engine show get a small portable generator running. It was a China built unit. We borrowed a Champion plug from something else and it started right up and ran great. Have seen the same issue with small China built 4 wheelers too. Remove the original plug, replace with a Champ or Autolite and problem solved. Not sure about these Torch plugs. Had one fail. Maybe just bad luck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Well, the little Predator stars on the first pull of the rope and seems happy so maybe I'll just leave it. I have a new plug on hand if needed. I am just gun shy of the Torch plugs. I had never even seen one till I helped that fellow figure out why his generator wouldn't start. Then my generator wouldn't start after about 30 hours of use. Not all the hours were at once of course. How long have the Torch brand plugs been out on the market? I don't think our auto parts stores carry them. They can be found on eBay I see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I was going to razz a bit you about having fresh air inside the muffler. But I'm sure you meant it another way. Maybe I just am not reading it like you were explaining it. Sorry!! I'm just in a goofy mood today. No offense intended please!! I have had the exhaust manifolds, pipes get extra hot on a motor that the timing was retarded too far. A too rich fuel mixture will for sure foul out spark plugs and dilute the oil. Had it happen with a way over jetted Holley carb on a 340 Mopar once. I don't recall the headers getting hot enough to glow though. So your theory is that the extra unburned fuel mixture was combusting inside the already hot exhaust pipe causing it to heat up till it glowed. Going by what you described with your experience that must be the logical explanation. I know that a too lean condition with a 2 stroke can cause a melt down, but that's just because of not enough lubrication on the moving parts. Different animal than a 4 stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
I used to "read" the spark plugs in my street car motors after changing camshafts and or intake, carburetor, ignition upgrades, etc. If the plugs were showing a blackish sooty color I knew I needed to make some changes. That or not cruise, idle around so much and run the car harder. That was sometimes hard to do and stay within the expectations of the local law enforcement personnel. So it was a delicate balance trying to have a motor that would really "get it" when you wanted to play and having something you could cruise around town and not get loaded up and buck, snort and run crappy. Now a days a computer keeps everything tuned just so for all possible driving situations. Way back when, I was seemingly under the hood on a regular basis changing jets in the Holley or metering rods in the Carter carbs and adjusting the timing. I had to wire the coil to a toggle switch because when I had the timing advanced so the motor ran the best on AV gas it was hard to start when hot. I would get the motor cranking over and then flip the switch to energize the coil. I often would go to our local airport on Saturday morning and get a tank of AV gas then go home and crank the timing up so I could "play" that night when all the local car guys had thier toys out. Wow, going down memory lane here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I would agree about the flame at the tip of a torch. If the flame is a bit yellowish you have too much gas and or not enough oxygen. Now I'm wondering if there is a difference between an incorrect fuel oxygen mixture ( in Stews case, too rich ) inside an exhaust system and how a torch produces heat with the flame out in the open. Inside the exhaust pipe a rich fuel mixture produced too much heat, with a torch too rich a fuel mixture produces not as much heat. And of course we are talking about two different sources of fuel here too. The torch is using a compressed gas ( acetylene ) and the motor is using an atomized liquid ( gasoline ). If that means anything? Boy this is getting to be like science class! Interesting!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Maybe comparing the flame of a torch and what goes on inside a motor is like comparing an apple to an orange? Just thinkin' Well anyway, I guess we have to agree that unless things aren't just about perfect that there will be issues with an internal combustion engine. I think most of us have been down that road at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
No video today, sorry. Nobody here to run camera right now. I started off by going to the hardware and picking up some new grade 5 bolts. Just because it made me feel better, knowing this machine quite possibly will have a bit of a workout this coming year. Everything bolted together fine, no issues. I started off splitting a couple pieces of wood I had in the garage then moved the splitter out by the barn to look for more pieces I could split. I didn't find much that really needed re-split as everything was pretty much to size already. I had it running maybe 15 minutes total and the new motor ran great. I discovered that it was pretty happy working away at about 2/3 throttle. I used to run the B&S motor about 1/2 throttle, and it did just fine. I would throttle it up some when I got into the really dense, knotty, twisted stuff. Never needed to run it "up against the governor" to make it split. The old B&S was 8hp and the new Predator is 6.5hp.so I might need to wind this motor up a bit more when I get into the heavy stuff. We will see. So far, I am happy with the new motor. Worst case scenario I could put the old motor back in place or hunt up a better one the same hp. I think everything will be ok just like it is now though. I noticed that there wasn't much heat transfer from the muffler heat shield to the throttle cable so that should be good as is. I never did any kind of change on the motor mount plate as there would need to be some sort of trough between the channel mount and the plate underneath. Can't drill down through the bottom plate or notch it out because there is an angle iron stiffener welded in place right there. Not a big deal, I'll just use a scrap of cardboard or piece cut from a beverage can for a drain spout. And thats all I have right now.
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Well the original motor lasted over 40 years running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Seasonal use of course. It would sit a few months between splitting sessions. I know what you're saying about letting them loaf along and get hot. Long periods of idling aren't good for air cooled motors.
 
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