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My friend cut four large oak trees in my yard. He's good at cutting so I let him drop the trees. I did all the cutting up and clean up. I spent the day cutting and hauling wood until my chain decided to start cutting to the right and binding up the saw. A friend of mine is going to show me how to fix that problem. I'm running my husky model 61 that I bought new 30 years ago. I'm looking at those new husky auto-tune models as one of those would sure be nice for going through the big oak.

Anyways here is a few pics of my custom 18HP twin helping me out around the site.


 

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I bought a husky 562xp a few years back, best saw I have ever owned! Runs a twenty inch bar in hardwood and cuts like butter. The auto tune is nice and has not given me any problems. We cut 8 to 10 cords a year and this saw has been invaluable I definitely recommend it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought a husky 562xp a few years back, best saw I have ever owned! Runs a twenty inch bar in hardwood and cuts like butter. The auto tune is nice and has not given me any problems. We cut 8 to 10 cords a year and this saw has been invaluable I definitely recommend it. Good luck.
Thank you Eric that is good to know. I've been doing some reading on it over the past few months.
 

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Exactly my problem also, cutting to the right.

I have contemplated how best to describe it, having a aphasia does not help when trying to communicate, but your description fits exactly.

Please post when you cure it and how it was accomplished. My cure so far has been to buy new chains and bars=3 new chains and bars with hardly any use.

I use a Husqvarna 235 with 16" bar. Has ran great for 3 years now.

Thanks for post.
 

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Is it possible that you are putting to much pressure on the saw and the chain is heating up so much it warps? Also what kind of chain are you using? The box stores only stock safety chain which is worthless, if you order from a reputable store you should get a more aggressive chain that will aid in cutting faster with less pressure, the saw should cut under its own weight. Also sharpening a chain is fairly easy to do with the husky kit the guide makes it fairly simple. You just need to order the right size file and guide for your specific chain.
 

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I would agree, improper sharpening of the chain is the primary reason the chain cuts towards left or right. Even if you use a good bench mounted chain sharpener, if the sharpener is not set up properly, you will get the left or right cutting error.

A secondary cause is that the rails on the bar are not parallel or are worn unevenly. A simple fix for that is to buy a large diameter, but thin (9" by 1/2") grinding wheel and mount it in your table saw. Run the bar flat on the table and remove just enough of the rails to get them square and smooth. If you have a roller nose bar, be careful not to remove too much on the rails near the tip of the bar.

Before sharpening rails, be sure the distance between the rails is not excessive. Oregon makes a shim tool that you can put in the groove and then hammer the rails tight to the shim on an anvil.
 

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I'm running a sthil 044 with a36 in bar. My saw use to cut to the right until I got rid of the 3/8 chain and bar. I switched to a 404 bar and chain, since then I have never had that problem again. Bigger is better
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to all. And to answer your question I don't run Lowes and walmart chains. My bars and chains come from saw shops. Thanks for all the replies sorry this post turned into a saw troubleshoot instead of my 1856 thread.
 

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I did not mean to hijack your thread and I know that this is off topic but my hope is that the moderators will let is slide by. One more thing is that all the cutters do not have to be the same length but each cutter has to be in reference to its own raker. In other words you can not use one of those long raker gages to set your raker height. Each rake must be the correct height according to the cutter it serves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the videos!

At first I thought, where's the 1886, then I remembered your engine swap! :thumbs: Cool stuff.
Yah, that one is a lot of fun to use and is a really smooth engine. Next week I'm going to try and get my 853 out for some wood hauling.
 
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Yah, that one is a lot of fun to use and is a really smooth engine.
I'll bet! A Bolens "hot rod."

Did you run the tractor much with the original engine? I'm sure there's quite a difference in pulling power with the twin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll bet! A Bolens "hot rod."

Did you run the tractor much with the original engine? I'm sure there's quite a difference in pulling power with the twin.
Actually that tractor started out as an H14 with an engine that smoked. The way these rear ends are geared I don't find any difference in pulling other than it takes more to make this engine bog down under load. I just like that it is smooth and sounds really neat. If you are interested the original post on everything that I did to build this tractor is here (on another site...if that's ok to reference here, I like both sites but don't want to get in trouble here, if not admins feel free to remove that link....)

http://www.mytractorforum.com/18-bolens-forum/241569-1456-become-1856-a.html
 
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