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Electric Tractors
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2 Homemade attachments for MF10or12s with rear lift.

Front snow blade-
4ft wide, 3 position left center right, and locks in the up position.

Rear Box scraper with teeth-
3rd version that I've made improved over the last 2, 4ft wide, can use the teeth to loosen everything up works good after a rainfall, flip it over pull it forward it levels, push it backwards it scrapes down high hard spots it really digs in that way. Made this over the winter and only recently started to use it seems to work good. Made with 3/8 angle iron and the teeth are railway spikes.

Both attachments operate from the tractors lift lever and can be locked up so that one can be used while the other is not. Using the front blade for snow plowing while the rear scraper is locked up should give better traction from more weight, won't be able to find out until it snows again.
 

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Senior Member
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1,499 Posts
It looks like both attachments will do a good job for you! Good job at fabing them up.
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
I like that.
 

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Premium Member
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15,923 Posts
I like the box blade and good use of the railroad spikes.
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys it's always nice to have your work appreciated.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Thought I would share my plow set up. This was a 48" Craftsman dozer blade before I modified the plow and built a new frame work to fit the Massey. The blade was heavily worn and beat up at the mounting and I had a lot to fix, but the overall outcome was great. The main thing I would do different, would be to run dual square tubes to the back and design a stronger mount. I might of designed it to work with, or mount on, some beefed up sleeve hitch brackets. I never had a problem, but it would be better that way.







And a couple photos to show what had to be rebuilt!





 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Not with the 48" blade, in fact it is way to heavy with just one. Now this spring I bolted up my 42" blade to move some dirt and it did "float" a little more than it should of. I have some tension on them in the up position, so if I were to put then at zero tension, they may not be as bad with the 42" blade.I figured I could add a second cutting edge, or some extra weight in the main pipe if I needed more weight up front.

Next winter I WILL have the electric lift though! I plan to keep the stock lift arm to work the rear hitch. Although I think the electric lift back there would really be needed too. With the design of the lift arms, I "may" be able to hook up the rear hitch to the electric lift, but I will need to come up with a way to maybe lock the thumb button on the lift arm. The lift arm connects to the center lift rocker shaft with a connecting rod. If that connecting rod is removed, the lift handle only works the rear hitch that is connected directly to the lift handle. I am not sure how hard it would be to install the electric actuator, and keep the option of re-attaching the center rocker shaft to the handle. I think a lot depends on how hard it is to lift my single bottom plow with the lift handle. (Whew... little off topic there!)
 

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Tractorholic
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427 Posts
FirefyterEmt said:
Not with the 48" blade, in fact it is way to heavy with just one. Now this spring I bolted up my 42" blade to move some dirt and it did "float" a little more than it should of. I have some tension on them in the up position, so if I were to put then at zero tension, they may not be as bad with the 42" blade.I figured I could add a second cutting edge, or some extra weight in the main pipe if I needed more weight up front.

Next winter I WILL have the electric lift though! I plan to keep the stock lift arm to work the rear hitch. Although I think the electric lift back there would really be needed too. With the design of the lift arms, I "may" be able to hook up the rear hitch to the electric lift, but I will need to come up with a way to maybe lock the thumb button on the lift arm. The lift arm connects to the center lift rocker shaft with a connecting rod. If that connecting rod is removed, the lift handle only works the rear hitch that is connected directly to the lift handle. I am not sure how hard it would be to install the electric actuator, and keep the option of re-attaching the center rocker shaft to the handle. I think a lot depends on how hard it is to lift my single bottom plow with the lift handle. (Whew... little off topic there!)
I was thinking about a electric lift for my mf10/12's also. I think I'm going to try to come up with a lift assist for the manual lift instead though. I have done a lot of fine grading with the dozer blade and like the manual lift for that. I think it is easier to control the plow for grading. Also when using my one bottom plow if I start to lose traction I just lift the plow slightly as needed to put more weight on the tractor. I do the same when tilling in tough grass/sod, sometimes the tiller wants to push the tractor so I just pull back slightly on the lift handle. I like that you can "feel" with the manual lift and meter the lift instantly. I definitely need something as the tiller with extension is very heavy. I can adjust the lift assist springs for the tiller enough so it lifts easy enough but then it doesn't have the weight I want for tilling. I plan on restoring a couple of my tractors this coming winter and will see what i can come up with.
 
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