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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning Everyone:

Yesterday I got started building my homemade snow plow for my White Town & Country 112. I was given the GT without any implements or even a mower deck, so I decided I needed to do something with it. Not to mention it"s been snowing a lot and plowing looks like fun.

So this is my basic salvaged materials, along with bit of junk I have tucked away in the corners of my shop.

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This is the blade material. I plan to cut it in half and laminate the two halves together.

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These are some scrap from work. They used to join together to support radiant heaters, which are used to defrost the ground. Originally they extended but the innner 1 1/4" tube is rusted in place. So I have 1.5 inch by 1/4 wall tubing for my push frame.

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This my push frame mount ( x 2) made of 3" channel. The 3/4 hole in the GT frame was already there so I robbed a couple 3/4 bolts from from a couple of old trailer hitch balls.

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A pic of the mount welded to part of the push frame.

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Both sides of the push frame with a centre support.

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The front starting to come together.

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A hook I made out of some galvanized rod, to act as the lift point on the deck lift mechanism.

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The lift chain is passed through the frame support and wrapped around the whole frame in an effort to lift the push frame evenly. I'll probably work on the lift to come up with something better a little later.

Does anybody have a picture of how their plows lift? Am I at least close to figuring out how they are supposed to lift? I only get about four inches between the lifted and lowered positions.

More to follow soon. Hoping to get the work done today and paint tomorrow.

Any input you can offer would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jeff
 

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Looks like you're making progress. Watch cutting that tank, though. As far as the lift only being 4", that is a challenge when running the assembly under the front axle. Hard to get much lift that way.
 
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CAN I COME PLAY IN YOUR SHOP? Please. I love a down to earth DIY build from scratch project thread. I'll be following. Thanks for the pics and description. Keep us posted. Oh, is that a GT lift your tractor is on that you just happen to have sitting around your shop? If so, that's really cool.
 

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Looks like you are off to a good start.
 
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I personally think 4" of lift is all you need. That's about all I have w/ the GT blade I adapted to fit my wheeler. It works well ramping up the snow as I have to due to space limitations. If you think you need more lift cut the push arms just ahead of the front axle w/ the sawzall or cutoff wheel on the top and sides. This would have to be done after the blade is built and mounted. Keep veeing out the cuts so the arms almost touch the floor, then tack them in place, remove from the GT and weld up good.
For the moldboard, when you say laminate, do mean back to back to make it stronger or end to end to lengthen it? If you have some more of the sq tube, make a strong back to span your welding table and use it w/ a bottle jack as a press to increase the radius of the moldboard.
These are only suggestions of things I would do.
Mike
 

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You're doing a very nice job. My Ford and Snapper tractors have plow frames that mount to the rear axle like you're doing. They both have a center guide mounted to the front of the tractor frame to keep the plow centered under the front axle. One has two angles pointing down that straddle the plow frame. The other tractor has a piece of channel welded to the plow frame that comes up in front of the grill and is straddled by two angles that go horizontally forward from the tractor frame.

Are you going to make the blade spring trip? I recommend it. I used a fixed blade for awhile but ended up on the hood of the tractor when hitting rocks. Thanks for the pictures and good luck.
 

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You're doing a very nice job. My Ford and Snapper tractors have plow frames that mount to the rear axle like you're doing. They both have a center guide mounted to the front of the tractor frame to keep the plow centered under the front axle. One has two angles pointing down that straddle the plow frame. The other tractor has a piece of channel welded to the plow frame that comes up in front of the grill and is straddled by two angles that go horizontally forward from the tractor frame.

Are you going to make the blade spring trip? I recommend it. I used a fixed blade for awhile but ended up on the hood of the tractor when hitting rocks. Thanks for the pictures and good luck.
LMAO! Just picturing boyscout all sprawled out on the hood of his GT makes me laugh. :bigrofl: Better wear a helmet and a seat belt if you don't make the blade "spring trip".
 

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Your progress looks really good!! A thought is to build a pivot into the push bar at the front area. Then mount the push bar in a solid manner. This will give you more lift options and more lift travel. IMHO

Geno
 

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LMAO! Just picturing boyscout all sprawled out on the hood of his GT makes me laugh. :bigrofl: Better wear a helmet and a seat belt if you don't make the blade "spring trip".
To an observer it was funny. I chuckle now. Ed and Jim, my neighbors at the time, were laughing as hard as they could. So they got on the hood of my Raider 9 and we plowed the road together. That was over thirty years ago. I then got a spring trip plow(like most are) and didn't have trouble with the tractor until 5 years ago when the engine wore out. Twenty years ago I went over a big rock on my A/C HD6G and ended up on the hood of it. If I hadn't caught the throttle with my foot as I went over, it would have kept going. Boys playing with toys.
 

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Good Morning Jeff and a Happy New Year;

Now that looks like a man that is on a mission and knows what he is doing. I like to see a young man with the spunk to made something out of just about nothing, give the man a cutting torch, a welder and some metal and he can build what ever he wants.

A very good job so far, my concern right now is, isn't it a little bit cool to be outside working like that, even in a garge can be uncomfortable.

Looks like you have the tiger by the tail now.

Dick
 

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I had Jac/white and a lighter blade for snow that mounted on the front of frame where you see those four bolt holes at axle pivot. Was ab 5" tall and made a U-shape for mounting ears on the outer ends. One big A-shaped frame came off those sides. There was a tall ink on righ side and a small channel piece that went back to the manual lift arm on right and just had a swivel clamp there to mount to handle. That way the handle use the notches in that lift to hold blade up. Could adjust clamp up/down as needed to get travel height. There was also a Dozer blade offered that went back to axle or on frame anyway that was tougher. I never found one of those and sold the tractor before I used the snow blade too.

P.S. How you gonna cut that tank? That scares me! Doesn't take much gas or whatever to go BOOM! I take such items and tanks to a former Marine welder that has all the tricks for cutting tanks. HE can have it!
 

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I decided to take a break for a bite to eat and to see if anyone had an opportunity to offer some pointers. Needless to say I was very surprised to see all the comments and useful input. Thanks much to everyone for the encouragement and useful advice.

For the time being (because I am anxious to give it a try) the blade will be fixed, but I'll make it so that it can trip when I get my hands on some springs.

The propane tank has been devalved and empty for months. I revalve and recertify propane tanks at work all the time, so I'll share a little of the little bit I know. According to the scrap yard where we dispose of condemned tanks, they only need to be devalved for 24 hours before you can cut them. I prefer to wait a little longer, but that is just me being over cautious. Propane boils at - 42 degrees and expands at a rate of 270%. So whatever residual propane is left in the tank evaporates almost instantly.

I'm going to cut it with an angle grinder with a super thin cutting blade. I should say blades because I expect it to take a few.

When I laminate the pieces it will be to make the blade thicker not longer.

So what I have accomplished so far today, doesn't seem like much.

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I welded the open ends closed and laid a piece of 1/4 inch flat stock on top and stitch welded it in place.

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This is the blade mount in place with the start of the blade position holes. I have a couple more pictures of the 45 degree holes, but didn't think I needed to add those.

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While walking by the rear end and seeing the still open tubes, I came up with an idea to add a counter balance on the back end of the push frame. My thought was that this would add in weight in the rear and make lifting the blade a little easier.

As usually, I tend to over think things and started to think that having weight on the rear of th push frame, might make the blade too light. I think given that the pivot point for the blade is so far back from the blade, that I would have to have a pretty substantial weight on it to really affect the weight of the blade. Any thoughts?

Well I better get back at it and thanks again for all your comments and input.

Jeff
 

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I think that your concern about lifting the blade may be valid. Just eyeballing it, but it may be only a ten to one ratio or less. A hundred pound rear weight may lift on the plow by 10 to 20 pounds. That may just end up helping you lift it. In which case its a win / win situation. My Big Ten uses a counter weight to help lift the plow. Trial and tweeking will probably make it perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm back again. Had to call it a day. The turkey is ready and I know I won't get back to my project after a turkey dinner.

I cut the collar and foot ring off my tank and drew on lines to cut it in half.

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Not a bad start to my cut. Those super thin cutting disks make it so easy to do nice, clean cuts.

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I stood the tank back onto the foot ring to satbilize it while I made my cuts. Even cut completely in half the two parts stood in the foot ring without falling over.

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It's surprising how clean these tanks are. This one is 24 years old.

Now I have to think about the next step. My original thought was to leave the tank ends in place to help keep the snow on the blade. Now that I see how tight the radius is, I don't think it'll work out that way. I'll need to cut the ends off so the plow can spring open.

As it stands the tank halves are 15 inches wide. Is this close to the height of a proper plow? I'll have to look into the dimensions so I don't have something too big for my tractor to push when it's loaded with snow.

Needless to say I was a little optimistic in my previous post when I suggested I would be done today and painting tomorrow.

Jeff
 

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Jeff,

Don't feel bad.....I can't tell you how many times I've had GREAT HOPES of finishing a project in short order only to run into those unexpected gremlins that get in the way of quick and easy. BTW, I agree with you cutting the ends of the tank out.....this way you'll be able to angle your plow and let excess snow slide out the ends. Looking good. Thanks for keeping us posted before you entered the "turkey zone". :thumbs:
 
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