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"Somebody" has found and hour here and there in the garage and finally got motor back in "Big Red", it's only been out for over 2 yrs.
Got to move it to other house and I woould rather it be running. I got a couple questions to ask, I'll do that tomorrow when I'm not on my phone.

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Nut Case
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Definitely easier to load on my trailer when it's running.

Eric
 

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Are they easier to work on laying on their side like that?
 
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Good to see it back together, even if it is on it's side!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea I know, every time I post pictures from my phone it flips them sideways. I even edited pictures and turn them sideways before I posted and it still flips them again. GGGRRRR

I have to figure out this wiring, the PO cut/bypassed every safety, he changed out the ignition switch to a multi purpose one and ran his own wiring, some is spliced into old harness. Stupid me forgot to take detailed pictures of wiring before I removed engine. :boo_hoo:

Definitely easier to load on my trailer when it's running.

Eric
Yea, I bet it would be :bigrofl:

Tell Me when to come for big PK, be Lots more room with That out of way.
I haven't pulled that trigger yet, you will be the first to know though. I moved it the other day, man that thing is massive, Should be labeled a SCUT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There, fixed them you nerds! :poke:

Okay so here is my question. I do not remember how the coil should be wired. I think the black comes from the point box and attaches to right side, then the red with the blue circle comes from the "ign" side of the switch. I think that extra white wire was the original hot wire from the original switch, but PO bypassed, I still need to trace it, resistance meter maybe?

Also, the red circle, there is a small threaded stud coming off the back of the points box, is there supposed to be anything attached there? Doesn't appear to ever had a nut on it.

Also, any good way to free up a choke cable? Rusted pretty good, I poured some penetrating oil on it and tried to separate the outer sheath a bit, but it's froze up inside the 6" long metal tube by button.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can anyone take a pic of the throttle cable mount of their 1655 or 1855? mine is boogered up too, not sure how it was mounted. I've got 3 different manuals and none have a pic I need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would think the wire diagram I have for Old Girl would be close to what you need. I'll can attach it this evening.

As for the choke cable, can you submerge it in solvents for a day or two?
I have the wiring diagram for the tractor, but it's for the original wiring before it all got hacked. Yours may help, I dunno.

I thought about soaking it, was in a hurry last night so I just poured some Kroil on the outer sheath and tried to get some down the mounting tube.
 

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The wire from the points should go to the negative side of the coil. Is it marked?
Yes it is, thanks you sir.

Does anyone know what the stud is for on the back of the points box? Does seem to be anything connected.

I guess points are grounded through block then over to coil?

Thanks Larry, that did help a little.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Is the stud truly a stud, or maybe more likely a much too long securing screw on the points or condenser?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is the stud truly a stud, or maybe more likely a much too long securing screw on the points or condenser?
Maybe, haven't looked that far into it. I may investigate tonight or tomorrow.

I may have to just buy a new choke cable, cheap enough, this one is pretty froze up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is the stud truly a stud, or maybe more likely a much too long securing screw on the points or condenser?
....and as usual, you are right my good Sir. I popped open the point cover, that stud coming through the back holds the condensor and wire.
 
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