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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my 1254 tractor that had a failed TRA-12D motor when I brought it home. I haven't done much with it in the past 3 years except bolt a 5 hp. B&S motor on it to verify that the transmission was good and then this TRA-10D motor I got last summer. About a week ago I did this realy quick throw together arrangement just to get it running and moveable. Used the dash assembly from a 1000 tractor just because it had a voltage regulator, wiring, and a starting switch already in place. I used a jumper wire from the coil to the battery positive terminal as I didn't have an ignition switch close at hand. Used a piece of string for a throttle control and we were mobile. I have cruised it around the driveway and yard a bit but now it's time for something a bit better. I will find a shorter piece of pipe for the exhaust too. Going to put the original dash support and dash back on and have choke, throttle controls and a key switch. I have the remains of two wiring harnesses, one from this tractor and one from a 1256 so between the two I will be able to wire it. Supposed to rain tomorrow so I probably can make some improvements. I was planning on removing the fender pan for a better look under it, so I already removed the seat.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Nice engine on that tractor! Are those 15" front tires?
I believe that they are. The rims are 6" and I believe were on a Craftsman originally. They came to me on the front of another tube frame tractor. I have a pair of Bolens 8" front rims but no tires to put on them at the present. This was just one of those whatever works, throw together deals. I wanted it running and moveable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So far, I have the sheet metal removed and am examining things. Doesn't look too bad overall. Put a shot of penetrant on anything that moves or has a screw or nut. The pto lever/shaft was very stiff but some oil and working it back and forth a bit, and its probably functional now. The brake pad that stops the drum on the front of the transmission is about used up and I believe that the clutch/driveshaft assembly ought to be removed and cleaned up, bearings rinsed out and regreased at the least. I also wonder how things look under the transmission cover? All gears work, it shifts ok, and isn't terribly noisy, so I would expect the transmission to be good. Now I have to take a breath and decide just how far I want to tear into this thing right now. The correct answer is that I really don't have the space or time for another major tractor project at the present. So I am going to stay on track with the original idea [plan A] of getting it pieced together, and wired up better. Maybe after awhile I can find time to tear into it a bit more.
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Looks good. I would suggest that you make it usable and then put it to work - that way you will have a lean, once again working garden tractor machine that can be integrated into the fleet as required and you won't be afraid to tackle the down and dirty tasks that pop up every now and then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks good. I would suggest that you make it usable and then put it to work - that way you will have a lean, once again working garden tractor machine that can be integrated into the fleet as required and you won't be afraid to tackle the down and dirty tasks that pop up every now and then.
Sounds like a reasonable idea. Just having it running and somewhat useable will be better than having it sitting around doing nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't get much done today on this project as the weather cleared, and I had more important things to do. I did get out 2 heat shields I had on hand. One is from a 1256 and was a flea market find, the other was original to this tractor. Both were bent out of shape from rough handling. I decided to attempt to straighten the worst one of the two. I had to bolt it in place and heat it with the torch to stress relieve it to get it back in shape. Did a bit of hammer and dolly work to get the creases and dents smoothed out. Then I ground, sanded the rust and scratches, followed by some primer and a coat of paint. Not perfect but good enough for what I'm trying to do. Next rainy day I will tackle the wiring.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Today was a rainy day so I got quite a bit accomplished on piecing this thing together. I used some of the original wire harness, [that was already cut and hacked] and ran some new wires where I had to. I followed the wiring diagram for a later 1050 tractor. I will have to dig through my collection to see if I have a decent fuse holder for the lights. That wasn't a priority today anyway. I discovered that the choke cable assembly I had was only about a foot long. Might be left over from a Wisconsin motored LF? The cable I ended up using didn't have the C on the knob, but it wasn't a twist lock like used for the throttle either. Dunno. Those were the only two Bolens oriented red knob cable units I had, so I had to use a generic cable assembly that I did have for the throttle control. It doesn't twist lock so it's questionable if that's going to be ok or not. Got a shorter pipe nipple for the exhaust from the hardware and that looks a bit better now. So, this is the rough draft of my homebrew wiring harness that possibly will get a tweak or two and definitely needs to be taped up better. That will be a project for another day. So now the tractor starts and stops by turning the key and I have choke and throttle control by using the knobs on the dash. The amp gauge registers a charge and I read 13.8 volts with my meter during a brief startup run. So that might not look like much, but it kept me rather busy for a few hours piecing this puzzle together.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm surprised that no one asked me why on Gods green earth was I using a torch that close to a gas tank !? Yeah- that thought crossed my mind as I was heating up the shield. I said to myself "boy, you're none too bright are ya?" I just didn't point the torch towards the tank and I checked that the cap was tight and couldn't smell any fumes or see any drips anywhere. I should have laid a wet towel over the tank but didn't think of that till I was done. I probably won't do something like that again.
 

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I'm surprised that no one asked me why on Gods green earth was I using a torch that close to a gas tank !? Yeah- that thought crossed my mind as I was heating up the shield. I said to myself "boy, you're none too bright are ya?" I just didn't point the torch towards the tank and I checked that the cap was tight and couldn't smell any fumes or see any drips anywhere. I should have laid a wet towel over the tank but didn't think of that till I was done. I probably won't do something like that again.
Aboard the ship, one of the fuel tank crossover valves was seized a few years ago. There was about 5000 gallons of diesel head pressure on both sides of the valve. The engineer put a torch straight on it to free it and laughed as I backed away (we were down in the engine room). “The pipes are air tight and full of diesel, it may as well be water.”

Experience is an educated professor.


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