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Anyone have a manual or photo of the 3 point hold up kit for the HT tractors ?

I've got a box of 3 point parts and I believe there is a kit in there, just not sure what it looks like assembled.
I'd like to install one on my HT 23, hopefully I have all the parts to do so.

Thanks.
 

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Ken, it shows up real well in the parts listing.

http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/1452-18086-3pt-hitchpdf/

It looks like that bolt goes through a hole in the illustration, but that's actually a slot, and it ain't real easy to get to :D

Heres a look at that area of the parts manual, and an illustration from the installation instructions that show it.
 

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That shouldn't be all that hard to remove. I'd soak it with some PBblaster for awhile and then try some vice grips.

Another option, if you have a torch, is to heat the BOLT till it's red, and then spray it with WD-40 or something similar. The thermal shock will help loosen the rust, and the WD-40 will also 'wick in" to the threads.

Another option, if you have a welder, is to put a nut on on end, tack weld it to the bolt, and then work with it.
 

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Are them drawings for the ht series Cat 0 ?
 

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Yes, that's the #18086 hitch for the HT large frames.

[sharedmedia=core:attachments:59462]
 

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Anyone have a manual or photo of the 3 point hold up kit for the HT tractors ?

I've got a box of 3 point parts and I believe there is a kit in there, just not sure what it looks like assembled.
I'd like to install one on my HT 23, hopefully I have all the parts to do so.

Thanks.
If you don't get what you need just PM me I have the manual and parts list for it.
 

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The installation manual and parts list are both in the manuals D/L section.

Ken, one of the things I'm going to do different when I move my lock from the 20D to the 1000 is use a NyLock nut, and a couple of nylon washers in place of the 'curved' washer that the instructions call for.

The curved washer is there to allow you to get the right tension so it only slides when you want it to. Since I don't have a curved washer, I figure that the nylon washers and NyLock nut will do the same thing.

I got my lock setup from Sams, and it doesn't have the ball/spring detent that the original had.
 
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The installation manual and parts list are both in the manuals D/L section.

Ken, one of the things I'm going to do different when I move my lock from the 20D to the 1000 is use a NyLock nut, and a couple of nylon washers in place of the 'curved' washer that the instructions call for.

The curved washer is there to allow you to get the right tension so it only slides when you want it to. Since I don't have a curved washer, I figure that the nylon washers and NyLock nut will do the same thing.

I got my lock setup from Sams, and it doesn't have the ball/spring detent that the original had.
FYI:

You can buy those curved washers from McMaster-Carr pretty cheap. Here's a link to that web page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=lkmsg9

They're available in various thicknesses and in either carbon or stainless steel. I don't remember the thread diameter or the thickness of the washer on my set up (I believe mine's original), but they're cheap enough that you could buy a couple of different thicknesses to try out. For The 3/8" I.D. size, the 0.009" thick washers are $3/10pc and the 0.013" thick washers are $6/10pc.

BTW: McMaster is a great source for just about anything. Thousands of pages of tools, parts, equipment, etc... We use them a lot at work and shipping is quick.

I don't think that the ball was ever spring-loaded. I looked at mine closely when I got it and it looks like the ball was simply staked into a shallow hole in the block at the factory.

Ed C
 
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