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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started restoring a JBI last spring and have the tractor back to an operating condition. It was not running when I first got it, so I had to change the points and rebuild the card, but it started right up and I was able to drive it off the trailer. I have sense converted the points/condenser system to a solid-state module. The motor runs good, but does smoke some, so I probably will have to pull the engine and rebuild it at some point. I disassembled the entire tractor, down to the frame and had it sand blasted and then repainted it. The tractor is back together now and I have run it to be sure the transmission is working. I did have to replace numerous bearings (front axle, front PTO and starter/generator) but the main drive train is working great. The next goal is to get the front end loader (FEL) working. I have replaced all hydraulic hoses and have tested the hydraulic pump and control valve. So far the FEL seems to work with the exception of the bucket. The original bucket was trashed, so I have removed the mounting brackets and have them temporarelly applied them to a replacement bucket. The last phase will be to rebuild, sand blast and paint the mower deck and bucket. Once I reach this point I will test the overall tractor operation by doing some light dirt work. I do need the lift arms for the 3-point hitch, so it anyone has these for sale, let me know. I have included a few pictures of the progress to date.
 

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That will be a nice looking tractor when you are done. On the 3-point arms, do you need the lower bent arms or the lift links? I have made the lower arms using a 20-ton press.
 

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Nice work. I like your painting rack. That engine may not need to be overhauled. Use an old swamp yankee trick. Clean away from the spark plug. Pull the plug. Bring the piston to just past the top of the compression stroke. Pour Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) into the compression chamber until the the valves and top of the piston are wet. Put the plug back in and let the engine sit for about a week.

The MMO dissolves carbon buildup and lubricates the valves and rings. When you try to start the engine, excess MMO may short the plug. Just clean the plug with carb cleanner. Once the engine is started, it will smoke for awhile to burn off the MMO. Run it for awhile and then change the oil. From then on, add MMO to your gas(about a teaspoon per gallon) and the smoking will be reduced. I have found on many cars that after 6 months of MMO in the gas, the smoking had stopped and the compression had come way up. The MMO frees up the rings which the carbon jams into the ring groves.

Please keep posting pics of your work. Good Luck, Rick
 

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THAT'S the way I do them, totally down to last parts and paint each one, then back together. That way you can check each part and replace the bearings and such as needed and be like a new one when done. Those sure look beefy, should be good rig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The following is an update on the progress made todate with my JBI restoration project. I do have some part numbers that might be helpful if someone is attempting to do the same. Some of these part numbers involve: Neutral safety switch, Left-side console switch, Front axle bushings, Head light replacement, starter/generator rebuild plus other issues. Also I would like to know if anyone can tell me who the manufacturer is for the loader on my tractor. I have not been able to determine if this is a "BH" or if it is made by some other Mfger.

Hope you find the attached pictures helpful. I included covered the project from the start to it's current status.
 

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Looking Nice! I was wondering about the drive shaft. Seems beefy, yet most tractors have some sort of rag-joint or such in them to allow slight movement and cut vibration. I've had PK early models w/out joint and later they added one in middle of the shaft. Not sure what problem was. Even JD's and IH's have those. Is there one on back at trans not shown in picture? Maybe this heavy frame won't flex and cause a problem? Just curious!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looking Nice! I was wondering about the drive shaft. Seems beefy, yet most tractors have some sort of rag-joint or such in them to allow slight movement and cut vibration. I've had PK early models w/out joint and later they added one in middle of the shaft. Not sure what problem was. Even JD's and IH's have those. Is there one on back at trans not shown in picture? Maybe this heavy frame won't flex and cause a problem? Just curious!
I am not sure if I am replying correctly, but here it is: I don't have much experience with other drive shafts so my information is very limited. This is my first restoration project and as a result I have had to look to others for direction on solving some issues with my tractor. I have learned a lot which I guess was the goal.
 

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Looking Nice! I was wondering about the drive shaft. Seems beefy, yet most tractors have some sort of rag-joint or such in them to allow slight movement and cut vibration. I've had PK early models w/out joint and later they added one in middle of the shaft. Not sure what problem was. Even JD's and IH's have those. Is there one on back at trans not shown in picture? Maybe this heavy frame won't flex and cause a problem? Just curious!
That style drive shaft was also used on MTD 990's. It is what I used on my Alice (AC718H Modified). Much better than a rag joint in my opinion.
 
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You tractor is coming along great :thumbs: I did notice in this picture , maybe just the angle , but the hoses look twisted , I don't think those Parker Tough Cover hoses would fail in a GT but they don't want them assembled with a twist Here's a few pages from the Parker catalog .

Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive fuel system


View attachment hoses.pdf
 

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