[EdJak]

Hi All
I have just bought a {not starting} JD160 from a farmer. I have always been interested in JDs and now find myself taking on the task of bringing this beast back to life.
Right now I have no spark, cranks strong. I'm not very familiar with lawn trackers so I thought this would be a fun project to tackle.
I hope to tap into the vast knowledge in this group so I can sort out this machine. Looks like a white wire jumper was used to crank the starter straight from the battery, why? Maybe the ignition switch is one problem? There's a switch above the ignition switch not sure for what its for and it maybe part of the problem. So I just want to get her going so I can start to diagnosis the rest of the tractor to determine if she's worth saving. What I know so far:

• 60psi when I did a compression test
• Battery and starter are relatively new
• Tires hold air but have cracking
• One of the blades binding up a bit
• Steering is heavy and feels like too much friction
• Body, frame and seat pretty fair for its age
• brakes work, no idea about the transmission until I get it running.

So I'm open to any suggestion for a plan of attach.
Thanks, Ed

 

[KennyP]

Welcome to the forum. Maybe these files will help you. Wish that wiring diagram was better, but all I have.

 

[FrankIII]

The switch above the ignition switch turns on the blades. I beleive those ignition switches had a habit of going bad and later JD offered a kit with a relay that would send power from the battery to solenoid when the key was turned. I have 1 of those tractors with the relay, a 185 with a 175 hood, planning to fix up and sell sometime soon.

 

[jms180]

The Kawasaki engine some had a small electronic module hanging on side of engine that was part of the egnition system. The module was know to go bad and make for lost spark at plugs. I am not sure your engine has this module.

 

[EdJak]

Welcome to the forum. Maybe these files will help you. Wish that wiring diagram was better, but all I have.

That's awesome Kenny! This will give me a starting point, I think the JD big bit me, I was looking at the 160 last night and I think it looks so cool

 

[EdJak]

The switch above the ignition switch turns on the blades. I beleive those ignition switches had a habit of going bad and later JD offered a kit with a relay that would send power from the battery to solenoid when the key was turned. I have 1 of those tractors with the relay, a 185 with a 175 hood, planning to fix up and sell sometime soon.

That's good to know Frank, do you have a part # for the relay kit? I plan on ordering some parts soon, just need to find a good parts source . Thanks Frank!

 

[EdJak]

The Kawasaki engine some had a small electronic module hanging on side of engine that was part of the egnition system. The module was know to go bad and make for lost spark at plugs. I am not sure your engine has this module. View attachment 420094

I'll be doing some more research, I was thinking the ignition coil, which I is on top of the motor, might be the culprit? But Ill have a look for the module too. Thanks jms180 !

 

[FrankIII]

That's good to know Frank, do you have a part # for the relay kit? I plan on ordering some parts soon, just need to find a good parts source . Thanks Frank!

Google search turned up this: John Deere Starting Improvement Relay Kit - AM107421

 

[EdJak]

Google search turned up this: John Deere Starting Improvement Relay Kit - AM107421

Thanks Frank, just ordered a starter module ($17), I'll start here and hope that's the problem.

 

[FrankIII]

Thanks Frank, just ordered a starter module ($17), I'll start here and hope that's the problem.

Interesting. John Deere does love a complex electrical system.

 

[Benj]

On the tight steering: you should grease the spindles/joints/check the boots etc., but these tractors always have pretty stiff steering. The "poor man's power steering" trick makes some difference (google it, it's just thrust washers and a bearings you add between axles/spindles) but it's not exactly night and day.

Random other notes:
-I've found G5 gator blades to work the best with the 38" decks these have. Or high lift for bagging of course, medium lift work fine for normal use too, but even after adjusting the decks well they're still not particularly impressive.
-Don't pull much of anything with the little unserviceable peerless bentonite-lubricated transmission...ask me how I know. My father (who has 2, one owned since new in '87) swears by never changing gears while moving to save the keys in there. I forget and shift while moving pretty often with mine, but I've only had one for 9 years, not 36.

All 3 of ours have the starter relay kits. Oil filters and headlights were the main options for these (oil filter kit is easily added, headlights not so much). The engines are excellent, transmissions seem to be the weakest link (these are light duty lawn tractors, after all).

Above all else, have fun (and good luck)!

 

[EdJak]

On the tight steering: you should grease the spindles/joints/check the boots etc., but these tractors always have pretty stiff steering. The "poor man's power steering" trick makes some difference (google it, it's just thrust washers and a bearings you add between axles/spindles) but it's not exactly night and day.

Random other notes:
-I've found G5 gator blades to work the best with the 38" decks these have. Or high lift for bagging of course, medium lift work fine for normal use too, but even after adjusting the decks well they're still not particularly impressive.
-Don't pull much of anything with the little unserviceable peerless bentonite-lubricated transmission...ask me how I know. My father (who has 2, one owned since new in '87) swears by never changing gears while moving to save the keys in there. I forget and shift while moving pretty often with mine, but I've only had one for 9 years, not 36.

All 3 of ours have the starter relay kits. Oil filters and headlights were the main options for these (oil filter kit is easily added, headlights not so much). The engines are excellent, transmissions seem to be the weakest link (these are light duty lawn tractors, after all).

Above all else, have fun (and good luck)!

Thanks Benj for the good info, ya mine has the oil filter but no head lights, Right now I'm dealing with a rusted seized brake disc and two broken studs, I did get one stud out but its getting to a point where I'm having no luck with the others.
I hope I get past this, I already solved the no crank and no spark issue. bought this JD160 for $300 and hoping it doesn't turn into a $$ pit.

 

[Benj]

Thanks Benj for the good info, ya mine has the oil filter but no head lights, Right now I'm dealing with a rusted seized brake disc and two broken studs, I did get one stud out but its getting to a point where I'm having no luck with the others.
I hope I get past this, I already solved the no crank and no spark issue. bought this JD160 for $300 and hoping it doesn't turn into a $$ pit.

Remember: nothing can become a money pit unless you decide to let it be...of course I have never been able to stop that cycle myself, but I've heard it can be done by more reasonable people.

If you haven't already, yank that transmission out to work on the brake etc. It's only 6 nuts, an electrical connector, and the shift linkage I think. And it's light too. Which studs are broken?

 

[EdJak]

Good advise Benj !
I let this obstacle get the better of me, I have been putting my spare time into tackling this and it has paid off! I had to drill and fracture the disc off, then I ran into a seized PTO when I tried to replace the drive belt. Then I found a simple solution on Youtube using PB blaster and a blunt air chisel to remove it. So right now I'm just waiting for a new disc to come in and I should be able to test drive it next week. Thanks for the input.

 

[Vigo]

Cant say i would have approached it the same way but ill say.. impressive job with the hand drill! Pretty precise aim you got.

Hopefully it just gets easier from here!

 

[EdJak]

I exhaust everything from torching to cooling with snow, penetrating oil plus I destroyed my puller. Those cobalt bit do work well, so this was the last option for me.
I hope the hardest is behind me, but you never know with a 36 year old machine. LOL