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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This doesnt concern my tractor but a friends, Though someone on here may have an idea. Tractor is a 3 a 3 speed Husky 800

When the tractor is put into neutral and the clutch is released, at the upper end of the clutch travel the tractor will lurch forward a little as the clutch is fully released. It does the same thing is the belt tensioner idler is released as well. Not a big lurch maybe 1/2 a foot or so.

Any ideas how to cure?
 

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Sounds like the shifter isn't getting it all the way out of gear. We have an excellant tube frame manual in the Manuals Section that you can download for free. Good Luck, Rick
 

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Really isn't any adjustment to them. There are 3 detents on the shift rods inside the transaxel for the three positions in gear, neutral and in a different gear. Make sure when when it is taken out of gear it is in the center detent. You can feel when it goes in. May have enough crud built up on the outside of the shift rods to make it move real stiff and you cannot feel the detents. Especially if the seals are bad.

The manuals section has a good breakdown of the internal parts of the transaxel.
 
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DR. Bolens
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Really isn't any adjustment to them. There are 3 detents on the shift rods inside the transaxel for the three positions in gear, neutral and in a different gear. Make sure when when it is taken out of gear it is in the center detent. You can feel when it goes in. May have enough crud built up on the outside of the shift rods to make it move real stiff and you cannot feel the detents. Especially if the seals are bad.

The manuals section has a good breakdown of the internal parts of the transaxel.
:ditto:

You should feel a "click" when you go into each gear , sometimes the detent springs will wear or break and the gears will be allowed to free float and may not be sliding all the way out of gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for that - Before i get to the manual, (will take a look later) can the springs be inspected by removing the gearbox top cover? I dont recall this tractor or my own for that matter making a click as i put it into gear, It just slides in. Doesn't jump out of gear but definitely doesn't click.
 

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Thanks for that - Before i get to the manual, (will take a look later) can the springs be inspected by removing the gearbox top cover? I dont recall this tractor or my own for that matter making a click as i put it into gear, It just slides in. Doesn't jump out of gear but definitely doesn't click.
The spring are inside a casting inside the transaxle. You cannot see the ball or anything until you take it apart. On the couple I had apart there was a set screw that went in from the right hand side. The spring and ball were in that chamber. Better look at the manual and see how it is all put together before you dive into it. Once you get into a couple they are not that bad, just a little tricky to get it all back together right.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The spring are inside a casting inside the transaxle. You cannot see the ball or anything until you take it apart. On the couple I had apart there was a set screw that went in from the right hand side. The spring and ball were in that chamber. Better look at the manual and see how it is all put together before you dive into it. Once you get into a couple they are not that bad, just a little tricky to get it all back together right.
Thanks for that - I will look into it in more depth but can you give me a rough idea of the level of dissassembly required? If its pretty much a whole trans axle strip i will probably live with it for the time being.
 

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Not a complete dis-assembly at all. Once the top cover is off you can get to the roll pins that hold the shift forks in place. Remove the roll pins from the forks and slide the shift rod out to the front. Just go slow when you remove the shift rods and there will be nothing to hold the ball and spring in place. When I put mine back together ti remove that plug from the left side and hold the inside balls and spring in place with a length or brass welding rod. When the shift rod get to the welding rod a quick tap will get the shift rod past the edge of the ball, remove the rod and at the same time push the shift rod in place. Probably other and better ways of doing it but that is the method I used. Good luck..
 
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