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I'm not on speaking terms with my Bolens today! I tried everything I could think of to get the rod out of the barrel on my duratrac's lift cylinder. Once I got the snap ring freed up, figured I was gonna have it apart in a jiffy. NOPE! I gave it holy hell for a solid hour and managed to move the gland upwards only about 3/16-1/4 inch. I gave up and went in the house and pouted.....Maybe I missed something. If anyone can tell me why it won't come apart, I would be very grateful as it has become personal now. :mad2:
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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I'm not familiar with your cylinder at all, but I'd think corrosion at the clip end of the cylinder is the issue. It's a tight fit, so any corrosion at all on the barrel end could lock her up. You may have to tap it back down past it's original location so you can do some cleanup on the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
having the repair manual is sometimes pretty darn handy! took the fitting out at the top of the cylinder and she popped right out. I have repacked several cylinders before and this is the first one I seem to recall where the piston feed fitting screws directly into the packing head at the top of the cylinder........ :wallbanging:
 

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Good information and very timely. going to pull the lift cylinder out of my G16XL today and rebuild it as soon as the parts get here. Will know to remove the fitting before and tear down starts.
 
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I'm not on speaking terms with my Bolens today! I tried everything I could think of to get the rod out of the barrel on my duratrac's lift cylinder. Once I got the snap ring freed up, figured I was gonna have it apart in a jiffy. NOPE! I gave it holy hell for a solid hour and managed to move the gland upwards only about 3/16-1/4 inch. I gave up and went in the house and pouted.....Maybe I missed something. If anyone can tell me why it won't come apart, I would be very grateful as it has become personal now. :mad2:
I am not on speaking terms with my Bolens either ! Trying to get the lift cylinder out from under the G16XL. Front pin came out with no problem. How in heck does one get that back pin out without removing the whole side of the tractor ? ? I thought the rock shaft would slide out to the left far enough to let it come out between the anchor point and the side frame. That shaft will not budge. Period. Have been soaking it with PB Blaster and using a large blunt end punch and 5 lb hammer and it is dead solid. Not sure now if it is even supposed to move but how else can I get that darn pin out of the end of the cylinder ram??
 
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I used a copule step drill bits and bored a 1" hole in front of the rear pin in the tractor frame. Made removal of pin and cylinder extremely easy. Factory should have done it but they didn't so I did. Keep soaking it in PB as I did for several days before I attempted to remove it. I also used Jasco Prep' N Prime which is phosphoric acid, on it. In fact, I use it on nearly everything now, as it has multiple uses. It eats rust very good. You can get it at Lowes and other hardware stores.
 

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I used a copule step drill bits and bored a 1" hole in front of the rear pin in the tractor frame. Made removal of pin and cylinder extremely easy. Factory should have done it but they didn't so I did. Keep soaking it in PB as I did for several days before I attempted to remove it. I also used Jasco Prep' N Prime which is phosphoric acid, on it. In fact, I use it on nearly everything now, as it has multiple uses. It eats rust very good. You can get it at Lowes and other hardware stores.
I woke up during the night and was thinking about doing the hole in the side bit. Don't know if the pin is free or not but probably is as everything is oil soaked under there. Also thought of putting a 1/2" hole in the lift arm to run a 3/8" rod through to help the pin out the side if necessary. Will be close to a Lowes Thursday and will see if they have that Jasco Prep' N Prime. Thanks much for the information and the penetrate dope. will let you know how it works out.
 

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I got the cylinder out with not much trouble at all, thanks to backyardtinker. Photos show how that access hole was made. I didn't have a step drill to went a different way but got the same results. I measured from the underside to get the approximate center of where the hole should go and marked it on the frame. then from the outside, after removing the foot plate marked the hole, punched it and drilled 5 1/4" holes. finished it up with the die grinder and carbide bit.

Access-2.JPG Access-3.JPG

The cylinder feels real good. take a fair amount of force to twist the ram and cannot move it in or out by hand. I am not the strongest any more with arthritis in the hands but if it was bad I would have been able to move it. I found the one hose had shed it's cover completely and had a small hole in it near the bend so it got replaced. The other hose tested good and looked good so it will go back on. Going to put it together this afternoon and see what happens. Win, loose or draw it has been a learning experience. The tractor should be good for another 30 years, I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got the lift cylider repacked this morning. Brought it to my local hydraulics repair shop and they were able to match up the correct seal kit for it. Cost just over $42 bucks for the parts and he even installed all the seals too which I wasn't expecting! The picture shows the cylinder after I took it home and re-assembled it. Painted it yesterday when i got home from work. If you look at the rod closely, you can see where I had to repair a couple pretty good dings. I wasn't sure if I would be able to braze over the chrome plating, so I tried it first on a 9mm craftsman socket ( as 9mm are near usless anyway) . Had pretty good result but found scratching it up a bit helps a lot. The down side is that in resurfacing /polishing down the brass, some of the chrome plating gets removed from the rod. the guy at the hydraulic shop confirmed what my thoughts were as to the repair. I figured that it will work pretty good but may weep just a tad when the seal moves through the repaired area, but nothing to really worry about. I also worried about the missing chrome being a place for rust to develop, but I did treat the exposed metal with phosphoric acid ( a process called, of all things, phosphotizing the metal, don't know how they came up with that one...) which is supposed to offer a certain degree of rust prevention. We figure as long as I store it with the rod retracted, it shouldn't rust. So far I have put water on it twice and let it stand for a few hours and still no signs of rust forming. Will have to wait and see from this point on how it works out.

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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having the repair manual is sometimes pretty darn handy! took the fitting out at the top of the cylinder and she popped right out. I have repacked several cylinders before and this is the first one I seem to recall where the piston feed fitting screws directly into the packing head at the top of the cylinder........ :wallbanging:
Most Massey gt cylinders end caps are held by the hydraulic fitting, but do not also have a clip or I'd have said something. The clip threw me off. Glad it's fixed.
 
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