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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, after a little more shop time today, I figured I would toss up some photos and an update.

I have the tractor pretty well stripped down now, at least as far as I am going to take it until I know all is well with the drive line. I want to drive it around a little once the motor is up and running to get any bugs worked out and worn parts fixed before I paint the frame & drive line. It appears that the SSI coil or some part of it is not working as the tractor does not have spark. So I will be sending out two SSI coil packs that I have to Ed Stoller for another conversion job. I had planed to try it myself, armed with the issue of LAGC magazine... but I have one of the "hard" coils to convert, so off to Ed it goes. This conversion should go even nicer than my 12G because I even have a factory wire harness to go with the ignition module. That will make for a very nice looking install this time!

Anyway, today I picked up a set of 3-jaw pullers to remove the varridrive style pulley so that I could swap on the proper hydro pulley. While I had my new toys out, I pulled off the damaged steering wheel and all the cowl parts. Later on, I will hit it a third time with some cleaner and the pressure washer, but it's looking pretty good now! Over the weekend, I had welded up the broken fender's on the seat pan and used a hammer and dolly to straighten all the dents and waves. I also took the broken grille and re-welded it all back into one piece again.







Then, I took next week off, and I plan to visit a friend and use his sandblasting room again. (This was where I had done the mower deck last spring) I have a pretty good sized pile of parts to sandblast, and I am bringing him my best "cowl" and a cracked nose trim to be plastic welded and repaired. So this pile (and then some) will all be sandblasted and in primer by next week~!



Now, I have a few questions... little ones for now.

A) If the hose to the hydro reservoir in the seat pan is blocked off, and I start the motor... will it "blow up" on me and spew fluid everywhere? I have repaired and soldered all the tubes on the tank, but I have not bought new hoses yet and want to know before I fire the motor and make a mess~

B) Can I still buy the tiny idler pulleys (apx 2") for the hydro belt? Any idea on the cost?

C) I am missing a lot of the retainer clips for all the rods on the chassis, I know these tend to be larger than a c-clip. Can I find these anywhere?
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
FirefyterEmt said:
Now, I have a few questions... little ones for now.

A) If the hose to the hydro reservoir in the seat pan is blocked off, and I start the motor... will it "blow up" on me and spew fluid everywhere? I have repaired and soldered all the tubes on the tank, but I have not bought new hoses yet and want to know before I fire the motor and make a mess~

B) Can I still buy the tiny idler pulleys (apx 2") for the hydro belt? Any idea on the cost?

C) I am missing a lot of the retainer clips for all the rods on the chassis, I know these tend to be larger than a c-clip. Can I find these anywhere?
1 I don't think it's a problem to run the Hydro unit without the reservoir for a short time, it might spill a bit as the fluid warms up and expands, just be careful not to get any dirt in there.
2 small idlers I've seen them for sale at TSC not sure about the shaft dia.
3 got my C clips or E clips at Princes Auto, assorted kit.

You might want to check your stator coil for the no spark problem, If you disconnect the wire that comes from under the flywheel to the coil and measure it's ressitance to ground, book says more than 400 ohms it's good, I checked 2 of mine and got 460 ohms, and got spark.
If you pull the spark plug out and ground it with everything hooked up, rotating the engine by hand will generate a spark at the plug, book says if no spark with good stator coil SSI n/g.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.... I have "been there / done that" with the stupid SSI system on these and I will not put any effort into fixing them if any part fails. Even if the stator coil is dead, replacements can fail at any time and just not worth the effort & cost. I have been running the Stoller conversion on my 12G for over a year now and it's been flawless. After my 12G that had a coil which would work for a while and fade out, come back, fade out again... I will only keep them as long as they run. Once they fail, and simple things like the key switch has been eliminated, I will convert them over.

The idle pulley is a little odd, the belt seems smaller than normal, and the mount is very odd. The shaft that mounts to the bracket is very big and has a nut. Worst case, I can turn custom sleeves for a idler pulley that will work, but I am curious if the pulley has a smaller "V" groove.

I am not sure if the C-Clips will work on all the arms, the stock ones were huge compared to the size of the pin, so I am worried they may not be able to retain the bracket properly.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DH1 said:
Try something for me, jack up 1 rear wheel and try to turn it, I read somewhere that 69 and up MF12Hydros had limited slip diffs.
Well, I just tried it and with the release valve in a 3 o'clock / 9 o'clock position ("off" freewheeling, if I am correct) and one tire is jacked up, I get a lot of "friction" and the other tire will spin, but backwards. This lends me to say it is not LSD and the odd friction I feel is just due to the hydro. It would of been freaking sweet though!
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My plan is to run that OH140 that is sitting in there now. It seems to have good compression, and it's all there, so with all luck, it will be a good runner! With the help of spare parts, it is even pretty complete. I used the starter off the HH100 I have in the shop, and it works perfect. I welded the piece that Alex had cut off the blower housing to run a generator style starter and I even have a good flywheel screen! A little delay due to the bad SSI, but I hope to have that fixed soon enough. I just need to start to scrounge some ignition parts for it while the SSI pack is out with Ed. I really hope this motor works good, it looks perfectly at home in the tractor and having the 14hp motor will be a nice treat!

Alex, that tractor has been pressure washed about three times now and still needs a bit more! I will still take this one to the parts tractor I have. That is the one that was externally greased with a brush, I swear! I wanted to take the front axle off it to be sandblasted. I had to hit it with purple power cleaner 5 times and pressure wash it before I could take a scrub brush to it!
It is starting to look good though!
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
You're coming right along,making good progress.:thumbs:
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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32,409 Posts
Yes, great progress! That TEC 14hp should be great on this tractor. Unless the hood is raised it will look stone stock, but pack more punch.
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
FirefyterEmt said:
Well, I just tried it and with the release valve in a 3 o'clock / 9 o'clock position ("off" freewheeling, if I am correct) and one tire is jacked up, I get a lot of "friction" and the other tire will spin, but backwards. This lends me to say it is not LSD and the odd friction I feel is just due to the hydro. It would of been freaking sweet though!
Just tried both mine 67 and 71 both the same open diffs.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
olcowhand said:
Yes, great progress! That TEC 14hp should be great on this tractor. Unless the hood is raised it will look stone stock, but pack more punch.
Even with the hood open, it really look stock unless you know what you are looking for. In fact, it almost looks more at home than the HH120 in my other tractor! I can tell you that topping off the oil will be a much better job!

I have not messed around with the OH motors that much, but they are a really cool little motor and are very different than the HH motors. The main thing is that the intake and the exhaust ports are in the head itself, and not the block. Contained in that box on top is a tiny set of rocker arms, valves and push rods that go down to the cam just like a car engine. I did find that on "Parts Tree's" website, I can still buy the rubber tube that connects the air cleaner to the blower housing. The air cleaner is sealed except for the hole in the back side plate that is designed to draw air forced in from the screen at the flywheel and spun into the air cleaner by the fins. It sounds like a very effective method compared to the HH120 motor's air cleaner design.
 
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