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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just got the massey 12 home i need a coil for it it has a tecumseh hh120 on it i don't want to convert it right now just wish to keep close to orignal as possible it was running but the last owner didn't get the bolts or screws tight enough on the coil so it slipped and hit the fly wheel so it needs a new coil on it anyone got one laying around thats good they want to sell? contact me at [email protected]ail.com Wheel Tire Tractor Automotive tire Vehicle Wheel Tire Automotive tire Plant Mower Tire Wheel Vehicle Tractor Plant
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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There are at least two different styles on those. Can you take a picture of it? That'll help us figure out what you need to be looking for.

My SS12 had the same issue. Only real damage was it "turned" the pickup head. I was able to epoxy it back together and use it. I have since replaced it, but I still have it as a backup / test unit (invaluable for troubleshooting.
 

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I think you need to find a flywheel shroud as well. That's a definite safety hazard. Not having the shroud will also prevent the flywheel fan from cooling the engine properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i have the shroud just have it off for now to see what damage was done when the coil slipped plus to see what coil it has on it allso will take better pictures tomarrow of the coil
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Combat vehicle Fixture Gas Composite material Auto part Metal sorry it's taken so long to get back to you fella's it's been a little hecktic lately here's two pic's of the coil tryed regaping it and see if it would fire it does not hope you guy's can help me figure out what mag this is thanks for all the help so far fella's sincerely outlaw070665
 

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Tractorholic
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There are a couple on Ebay right now. But have you checked this out with a meter? Also have you taken the flywheel off yet? I just got the same engine on a MF12 That I just bought. It also had no spark or a weak intermittent one. I took everything off and cleaned it all good. I also didn't trust my ignition switch ( it didn't look original) So I hooked up a temp toggle switch, One lead went to a good ground and the other lead from the switch went to the Green wire coming from the Stator ( it is the center wire that is plugged into the voltage regulator) This is now my temp Kill switch. I noticed while cleaning the Mag that the pick up ( the piece in 2nd photo, that has the white plastic insulator around it) had some metal shavings wedged between it and the aluminum housing of the mag body. it is a very narrow gap, and I had to use a fine pick to clean it out. Then I sprayed it well with contact cleaner. After this I removed the Flywheel and cleaned the Stator and flywheel magnets well, then sprayed it all down with contact cleaner also. After everything was clean, I reinstalled everything. And adjusted the gap to the factory specs, Believe it was .008, after all this I flipped my kill switch to the on position (open) cranked the engine over and it started right up. If you download the manual we have on here, it has all the specs and procedures for checking and adjusting the mag.( Like the 2 pins in the flywheel heights, and what the coil and mag should have for resistance.) I really believe in my case that my mag was just grounded out from those metal shavings.
I don't know if you know yet, but the coil on these is part of the Stator (witch is under flywheel) The pictures you took is called the Ignition unit. Hope all this helps you out. Good luck!
 

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If you do a little poking around, there are work arounds for this ignition system, but the first thing you need to do is the "Tickle" test.

Disconnect the wires where they bolt onto the piece of plastic on the front of the engine tin (about 9 o'clock if you're looking at the flywheel). The wire that was under that screw that obviously goes back behind the flywheel, hold onto it and also touch a part of that same hand to the engine block. Then have someone turn the engine over. It will tingle, not painful, but it will tell you if the stator is working properly.

This isn't a test I'd advise for people with pacemakers...
 

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Tractorholic
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If you do a little poking around, there are work arounds for this ignition system, but the first thing you need to do is the "Tickle" test.

Disconnect the wires where they bolt onto the piece of plastic on the front of the engine tin (about 9 o'clock if you're looking at the flywheel). The wire that was under that screw that obviously goes back behind the flywheel, hold onto it and also touch a part of that same hand to the engine block. Then have someone turn the engine over. It will tingle, not painful, but it will tell you if the stator is working properly.

This isn't a test I'd advise for people with pacemakers...
Or just have someone hang onto the high tension lead and crank it over fast
Just kidding I couldn't resist this one
 
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