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Tractorholic
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys

I was out playing in the snow today with my MF16 and ran into a couple issues that I wanted to run past you. The snow was pretty heavy yesterday but I have never had an issue with it before, until now..

From what I can tell (without fully dissassembling it yet) the teeth on the "jack shaft" have been rounded off and the drum freewheels (with minimal resistance). It looks like this is a welded shaft with the sprocket on one end...has anyone else ever run into this? I was hoping it was a shear pin or key or something....

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Steve
 

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Super Moderator
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14,167 Posts
You could probably cut off the existing sprocket and get a new one welded back on. If it's like the JD I have, the factory shaft and sprocket assembly is really expensive if it's still available. You could also get a piece of shafting and a sprocket and make up the entire assembly. I'm not sure on parts availability for the MF attachments.
 

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Super Moderator
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Will, I think the sprocket on the other end of the jackshaft may be worn out. The key could also be broken which would be a cheap fix provided nothing else is ruined.
 

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New Member
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9 Posts
Well this is weird but I ran into the same problem today. I removed the jackshaft assy and the sprocket at the end has been totally rounded off, no teeth left at all. I was hoping that anyone here might know where I could get another shaft. I have looked everywhere online today with no success. The snow thrower is the MF 520
 

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Tractorholic
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay...I think I have a resolution.

"iamsherwood" yes its item #1

"thglider" did your sproket look like the pictures attached (sorry for the mispelling)?

I was pleasantly suprised to find that the entire jackshaft assy can be removed from the blower in about 10min. I was expecting it to be much more of a project. Anyway, as you can see in the pics, the sproket (or so it was..) is welded to the end of the solid 3/4 shaft. As far as I can tell, this is, or was, a 13 tooth sproket #40 chain (if someone has another count please share). I located a 1/2 bore 13t #40 from Amazon (shown in pic). I plan to remove the old sproket from the original shaft by grinding the weld and tapping the sproket off the end. Next, I will turn the end of the shaft down to accept the 1/2" bore sproket. By turning this down, I hope to ensure that it will be true and centered when rewelded. I am thinking this will take care of it for another 30 years or so..ha ha...what do ya guys think?? Amozon Parts.jpg Shaft w welded sprocket.jpg Sprocket.jpg Welded End.jpg
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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32,409 Posts
Your plan should work perfectly. It would appear the OE sprocket was the "sandwiched" type sprocket, which don't hold up as well as a solid cast sprocket in most cases. The replacement should last a long long time. The biggest enemy of sprockets though is a worn out chain. Be sure to get a new high quality chain, or the sprocket will suffer an early end. An O-ring chain is the best, as they have small o-rings that hold the chain's internal lube in, and they last 4 times or more longer than std roller chain.
 

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Elf guardian
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7,712 Posts
What a mess that "sprocket" is. Surprising it was still doing anything.

Well, at least you don't have to deal with a buggered up keyway.

Thanks for the info on the O ring chain Daniel. I had no idea.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
Dang! that is some serious sprocket wear for sure! Your idea will work perfect, but I would sure look at all of the sprockets on that chain drive, I would think you have little luck the rest are ok.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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32,409 Posts
Thanks for the info on the O ring chain Daniel. I had no idea.
O-ring chains is the only way to go with motorcycles/ATV's....except for driveshaft which is way better. They make special lube for o-ring chains that goes on like penetrating fluid, really thin to get past the o-rings, then it thickens. I bought my 1st can of it 35yrs ago and thought I got a bad can of chain lube. Thinking it was bad anyway, I sprayed it all over the chain to at least do something. A few minutes later my hands were sticky as glue! THEN i read the can! :hitting_self_roller: For a snowblower in the wet environment, the o-ring chain is the way to go,.
 

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Super Moderator
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I'm afraid to look at the chain and sprockets on the 49 thrower I bought. It may be in the same condition.
 

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New Member
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141 Posts
From the other site.

Here's the link you gave me. The large sprocket and clutch plates on Patton Acres have been on there ever since I saw them a year or more ago. It's not a great price, but also not terribly bad for NOS considering the sprocket size and rarity of finding them new.

Personally, I gave up on hunting for "Massey" parts. I found that same tiller was used for 3 or 4 different brands, including the JD 33 tiller. That's how I landed on an eBay ad for all the sprockets, hubs, clutch plates, etc. that I needed. Somebody tore apart their 33 and it's a direct fit to our tiller. I was pretty psyched to get all that!

If whoever is asking needs measurements or tooth counts, I can help out easy enough. I have the stuff still in the box on the shelf. What forum is that on? GTTalk? I'm on a few different ones but I only really use this one.

http://unclehenrys.com

http://pattonacres.com/cart/massey-f...s-c-18_45.html

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Tractorfanatics.com
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Senior Member
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Another good source for for sprocket and hub are the make your own from TSC or Fleet farm. Many implement dealer also carry the make your own one.
 
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