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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1655 has what I am guessing is an added on bearing. It must have been bolted on the one side to the homemade looking bracket. I plan on removing it as I don't believe it's original and not being secured it is not helping anything. Also the main length of shaft is 1 1/4" dia. Is this correct? I added a piture of the rear pulleys, they were converted to chain drive. I got that changed back to belts ( there was no way to shut off the pto with the chain). Any opinions or tips thanks? Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Wheel
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Tractorholic
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That's a new one by me, never seen anybody use a chain/sprocket system! I do however like the idea of a mid mount carrier bearing setup......I need to install one in my MF 1655 as when u hook the pto driveshaft up to back of engine it creates a whipping/vibration and the carrier bearing would help stabilize the shaft.
If I were you I'd secure that carrier bearing in the framework and leave it! Something that Snapper/Massey should have done when designed. Good luck
 

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That's a new one by me, never seen anybody use a chain/sprocket system! I do however like the idea of a mid mount carrier bearing setup......I need to install one in my MF 1655 as when u hook the pto driveshaft up to back of engine it creates a whipping/vibration and the carrier bearing would help stabilize the shaft.
If I were you I'd secure that carrier bearing in the framework and leave it! Something that Snapper/Massey should have done when designed. Good luck
Yea I have to agree with Luke..
 
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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The only problem with the solid mount carrier bearing is the fact that the engine is mounted in rubber, allowing movement to some extent. The solid mounted shaft will fight that engine movement. To me, the engine should have been solidly bolted to prevent misalignment at the spline shaft, causing premature wear.
 

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The only problem with the solid mount carrier bearing is the fact that the engine is mounted in rubber, allowing movement to some extent. The solid mounted shaft will fight that engine movement. To me, the engine should have been solidly bolted to prevent misalignment at the spline shaft, causing premature wear.
could always mount the carrier with rubber washers I guess,seems a good application for a LoveJoy.
 
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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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could always mount the carrier with rubber washers I guess,seems a good application for a LoveJoy.
A Lovejoy requires almost perfect alignment or it eats the rubber spider. Can't have anything moving when using a Lovejoy. Now a universal joint would work fine.
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looking at it, I could build a bracket so its bolted to the engine carrier, as the engine is bolted solid to it. Would have to make sure the shaft is coupled and in line. The engine and the carrier bearing would move togather then. But maybe it's not worth the work, is this Massey pto setup that big of a problem?
 

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Tractorholic
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I feel that it's something that should be addressed cause in time it will result in premature wear on the splined coupler and splines on shafts. Unless your gonna use the rear pto all the time you can just slide the coupler back on pto shaft and tape then wire tie the shaft up outta the way. That's what I did since I never use my rear pto......installing a carrier bearing is on the list of "things to do" that never seems to get accomplished! Good luck
 

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I agree with auburn, rubber washers would work. I also like your idea bud......mounting it off the engine mounting subframe would be a good idea. You guys have given me ideas on how to go about setting mine up! Thanks
 

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I have an 1855 with the same set up and yes that shaft and coupler can be a problem. But to me adding a bearing there will only prevent free movement of the engine on its rubber mounts. Then it will fight itself in the shaft/coupler. Here's what I did. I shimmed up the engine mounts to fine tune accurate alignment of the engine to shaft angle. Then I also established that my pto shaft had become slightly bent. I got it straightened at a machine shop. Now no more vibration and the coupler has lasted for years. Previously the coupler had to be replaced every year, splines were wearing etc. So again the key thing is alignment so that the shaft isn't constantly "walking" in the coupler.
 

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I scrapped the original PTO shaft and made a new 2 piece shaft with the carrier bearing supporting the end of the second shaft over the hydro input shaft. Universal joints at the front and center pretty much eliminated any vibration.

I made the rear shaft long enough for an extra pulley outboard of the fender pan to drive the auxilliary hydraulic pump for the FEL without interfering with the clutch for the rear PTO. Live power for the pump, clutched power for the PTO, the front PTO is still available, and a seat for a passenger.

Can't beat that!

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is what I ended up doing, at least for now. I made a couple of hanger brackets from some scrap and used two rubber grommets that were for fuel lines going into the plastic tanks. They worked perfect for rubber bushing on the carrier bearing with washer for the alignment spacing.
 

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Tractorholic
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Here is what I ended up doing, at least for now. I made a couple of hanger brackets from some scrap and used two rubber grommets that were for fuel lines going into the plastic tanks. They worked perfect for rubber bushing on the carrier bearing with washer for the alignment spacing.
Heck yeah, that'll work......get ya by for now until you can make something more pretty to stick in there! Good job! Luke
 
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