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Metal Wheel Weights?

11K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  cbholtjr  
#1 ·
Guys,

I apologize if this has been discussed before - I looked at google, and sifted thru some old threads in the search, and didn't find quite what I think I'm looking for.

Unfortunately when it comes to the topic of wheel weights in general, I'm not terribly savvy in what I'm looking for.

My SS18 has 12" rear wheels, and I do have some plastic/concrete weights in there presently. I see pictures periodically of people running steel or iron wheel weights, sometimes with multiples stacked together.

Since my plastic/concrete weights are split, weathered, and have lost some of their concrete, I've been thinking about replacing them with metal ones. Rather than try to fab my own straight away, I decided to look and see what's available pre-made.

Are these a standardized bolt pattern? Something I could pick up any that are about the right size from tractor supply or northern tool or someplace else locally (to save on shipping?)

Pardon my ignorance, but my mind is like a sponge - I don't like asking things unless I can't seem to find the answer on my own, so any help to push me in the right direction is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
No worries! I'm not sure if something NEW is available, but craigslist and ebay are loaded with cast wheel weights. The guys that like OEM (guilty) can and do run the prices up on them though. I figure about $2/pound for most OEM cast weights is the market rate. Less that than, you're doing good. Some are stackable, some are not. Stackable weights are generally lighter (25-50# each), but allow you to pile on.

You might be overcomplicating a bit as far as fit goes...most 12" GT rims are configured the same. A 12" cast weight will fit, and there are square holes for carriage bolts that will align with mounting holes on most weights. I'm sure that's what you're using now. Doesn't sound like you need a specific brand, so I'd shop and watch for a reasonably prices set, unless the cost spooks you.
 
#3 ·
There are a ton of cast iron and steel wheel weights available. I don't think any one makes new cast iron weights today though. Unless you get lucky be prepared to pay 75-100 dollars per set, if the weights are JD weights you can double the price range. Another alternative is to make your own weight's. Some people have used old brake rotors, exercise weights and other stuff as weights.
 
#4 ·
I've seen the exercise weights used before. I figure if I DIY a solution, that's the route I'd go, as it's less tedious to build a bracket that can stack several bar weights than it would be to cut several almost-identical sections of plate and drill them out to fit the carriage bolt circle.

I'm not really figuring on buying *new* per se, and I suppose I could have been more specific that in my searches I find things where it will say something like "Fits Cub Cadet <50 model numbers listed>" yet still looks like a weight that would fit the weight bolt locations.

I suppose the fact that nobody makes new metal weights could be part of the reason why my searches have turned up very little. I prefer the look of regular cast weights to that of the plastic/concrete type, or even the setups people have made to support bar weights... but really looks or OEM branding aren't what I'm going for.

For some of the things I intend to do with my SS18, I feel I will need some better traction, so a combo or more aggressive tread + more wheel weighting seems to be the route to go.

Thanks, guys!
 
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#5 ·
I have two sets of weights, one cast set from a 57 Bolens, the other plastic/concrete from a 74 Columbia, either set can and has been fitted to other tractors including a 92 Cub Cadet and 75 Ford LGT.... I can mix and match so I think they are pretty much universal but require differant length carraige bolts for each application. The cast set are heavier and dont stick out past the rims as much as the plastic ones, and the cast set remains in better condition over time so they just look better imo.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Any weight that is made to fit a 12in rim will work for you. Every brand used a different looking weight but they all used the same basic rim so the mounting holes for the weights are the same. Here are a few of the different styles of weights from the different brands.

Here are Bolens weights. They weigh approx.. 50lbs a piece and sit flush with the outside of the rim.


Here are the typical John Deere weights. They weigh approx. 50lbs a piece but the sit on the outside of the rim.


Here are the stock Sears weights. They weigh around 35 lbs a piece. These ones can also be stacked. In this picture they are on a SS16.


Here are IH/ Cub Cadet weights. They weight 25lbs a piece. The nice thing about these ones is that they have a large opening in the center which allows them to be mounted on the inboard side of the tire.


Here are Allis Chalmers/ Simplicity weights. They weigh 25lbs a piece and they can easily be stacked.


There are many more styles of weights that you can find but these are some of the more common ones.
 

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#8 ·
Used ones are out there but you'll likely need some time to find exactly what you want. I think JD still makes wheel weights for their GT's. They are pricey though and would be yellow, of course.
 
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#9 ·
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#10 ·
I have said this before on here, I work in a steel mill and get lots of weights from there. drops from steel burnouts and such, I buy them for scrap price usually around $.50 lb. If you have a steel fab shop around go and talk to them, if they are decent they will keep an eye out for the rite size drops then all you have to do is drill two holes in them to bolt them on.

I do have a stack of 1" thick burnouts here, they measure 12.38" od and fit just inside of the rim on the beadlock surface, they are about 40lb each. shipping is the big thing as they are heavy. if you are interested just pm me.
 
#11 ·
I found that weightlifting plates drill through quite easily. Some of the 20# and 25# plates are a good fit on the rim.

Suggest using a washer between the nut and the plate to limit force on a single point. I've been told that they can break.

To bump up the weight, you can use a large diameter bolt in the centre to fasten a few plates together. Some 5# and 10# weights may fit between the bolts - on the inside side of the 25# plate.

Ones that are a bit rusty don't command top dollar - if your GT isn't restored, then they blend right in.

I'm constantly moving wheel weights between tractors. Biggest issue is that offsets are different and require different lengths of carriage bolts. Another road trip to Ottawa Fastener Supply.
 
#12 ·
Thanks fellas. I think I'll go the barbell weight direction with my setup, using a pair of brackets that strap over the center of the wheel and a post through the middle like some I've seen today. Seems that's easier for swapping/adding/removing weights than bolting the plates on.
 
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#13 ·
they measure 12.38" od and fit just inside of the rim on the beadlock surface, they are about 40lb each. shipping is the big thing as they are heavy. if you are interested just pm me.
12" Wheel weights became super easy to ship, and probably fetch higher prices becuase of....the USPS flat rate boxes. You can ship anything that fits, up to 70#, anywhere in the US for under $17.

You may have yourself a little side business on your hands! Personally, I'm on the hunt for reasonably priced weights of any type, for a 12" rim. Hoping for 50-75#, but every little bit helps.
 
#15 ·
Thanks. I have a set of wheel weights that fit the bill now.
 
#16 ·
I know this is too late for TX-Dj, but it may help others. I made my own wheel weights for my

SS-16 simply by melting clean tire weight lead into an old 10 inch frying pan. Each weight is about 35 pounds - about the same as the original Sears weights. It is very easy to drill out mounting holes. And they will never rust, so I didn't even have to paint them.

JiminRI