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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting tired of getting stuck in the winter. I have the tractors in a back yard shed, in heavy snow some of the hills demand I take a run at it, with AG tires and wheel weights! I've been dreaming of 4 wheel drive for a long while, I just couldn't figure out how to make it work.

I had an idea hit me a few days ago to take off power at the brake shaft. There is less to engineer around on that side of the tractor and the brake shaft is directly driven by the rear axle at all times. Plus the brake shaft is massive.

So, for the front axle I want to use a "dummy" peerless 2300 transaxle which is partially gutted, it will have no shift components or range gears as it will be driven off of the brake shaft just like the rear. The brake shaft can be flipped in the housing (if I remember right) by flipping its bearings to opposite sides. I will build a cradle to carry it in the front axle mount at a lower profile than normal and make it a steer axle. It will need to be 46% overdriven (if my math is right) to run 16 6.5 x 8 AG tire on the front. Drive will be by a standard 1/2 inch belt connecting both shafts with a tensioner to actuate 4 wheel drive when a shifter selects it.

Front axle clearance will undoubtedly be an issue, but I might be able to engineer out some of those conflicts. If I could make this work it would be a very beastly little machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There are a few reasons I want a standard 4 wheel drive system. I haven't really had much better traction with chains on turf tires and my concrete driveway don't like it when the chains slip! The tandem axle 4x6 setup I've seen have one major drawback, length. I really don't want the machine to be any longer than it is already.

When the steer axle has power the machine will make more of an effort to go in the direction the steering points it, the front axle is pulling itself. I did some more looking at things last night. I think the front axle housing will work best with the drain plug facing up. The advantage is more ground clearance but, I will need to drill and tap a new drain plug hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you planning on using the existing parts for steering
I hope to keep using the stock ross steering box if possible. I want to try to make this almost a bolt on mod. The axle alreay has a differential so that will help some. I think the alignment angles will be critical using manual steering, the caster angle will likely need to be near 0 degrees to make it easy to steer. I only has a 9 MPH top speed so it shouldn't need positive caster like a pickup truck.
 
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