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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, new to the forum. Thanks to the wonderful world of google and my better judgement, I was able to find this site when I did a quick search. I found another forum with helpful information and a member named olcowhand had replied and in his signature there was the link to this forum.

Anyhow, long story short: My MF 1010 54" mowerdeck spindle bearings are showing signs of play, and I've already got them out and cleaned up and torn apart, but I can't get the bearings off the spindle shaft. I have tried a Heavy Duty puller, but all it does is slip off the edge of the bearing when I try. I have not purchased new bearings yet, but I do see they cross over to timkens and are a very common size, so they should be easy as pie to get new. How in the world do I get these off?
 

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Welcome to GTT. Relax and enjoy the site. I am not familiar with your particular deck but I have had to resort to a press or heat to remove the inner race. Good Luck, Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Also, I'd like to add that the tensioner pulley bearing is good, but the deck mounted idler pulley is shot. There is a LOT of play in that. Should I just go to the local MF dealer and order that pulley or is there another alternative? The bearings aren't (easily) replacable, as it's a two-piece stamped steel pulley that is riveted together, thus sandwiching the bearing inside of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A press and heat were my next steps. I wanted to check first before going crazy on it, though, as I don't want to screw anything up beyond repair. It's my understanding that getting replacement parts can be difficult. As it is, I need new grease seals and the heavy-duty snap rings that locate the bearings on the shaft (found one that was cracked).
 

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You will be surprised how easy many parts are to find. We have several sponsors that can provide parts. You can usually get the bearings you need from a local bearing shop. I like my local NAPA for many parts. The idler pulleys are often a standard size and can be purchased at an auto parts or hardware store. With a little research and luck you'll find what you're looking for without breaking the bank. Good Luck, Rick
 

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And here I am again! :bigrofl:

With the stuck bearings, if you don't have access to a torch, you can slice the bearings with an angle grinder with the .045 cutting wheels. Hold a tight grip & stay on center or the wheel will grab & shatter You don't even have to cut all the way through the bearing race. Cut at least halfway through on opposite sides, then with the bearing on an anvil or similar surface, hit the bearing with a hammer good & solid and the bearing race will fracture right off. DO wear a full face shield though for all this, as bad things can happen if you don't. These are std light duty trailer bearings you can get most anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, they look like they're rusted on the shaft, actually. It's totally my fault for needing replacement so soon this season, I was lazy last fall and didn't take the deck off when I parked the tractor for winter and water got in there more than it normally would have. What I find interesting is how narrow the bearing race is vs. the width of the groove in the spindle housing itself. Was there a different spec bearing at one point in production? Doesn't matter, I'll take the inexpensive direct-fit replacement!

I purchased this tractor 3? years ago with 900 hours on it. It came with a 4' back blade, tire chains, the tires were loaded, and 4 suitcase weights for the front. I've replaced the blades and belt, fuel filter, air filter, drain/refill the radiator, engine oil a few times and the hydraulic fluid/filter were done before I purchased it (have receipts). I've put on almost another 100 hours thus far. The deck was loud when I got it and I've kept the grease flowing (nearly every time I mow!) since I knew it was inevitable. That idler pulley let loose the other day while mowing and that's what prompted me to look into the spindles further. There is enough play in all 3 that the shaft has contacted the aluminum case a bit, but luckily I think I'm just in time. There is minimal grooving of the shaft and the case appears to be undamaged.

Just for giggles, is the complete spindle assembly still available through MF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I stopped at the MF dealer today and ordered new grease seals, bearings, snap rings and the idler pulley. Going to be pricey, but I'll have the parts I need and they'll be correct, I suppose.

The complete spindles are still available! ($320 USD!)
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Hate to say it, but for less than $100, I got enough to rebuild my deck twice, except I just got enough seals for one time. I ordered my bearings from a trailer place online, and got my seals local. Chances are you "may" have higher quality bearings though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We will see what they have laser etched in them when they get here. The number on the old ones crossed over (online) to be the same exact part number for a timken bearing, yet the ones that were in it were etched "china". Going to the dealer may have been a bit of highway robbery, but I'm not one for shopping around. Next time, though...
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Mine were definitely not Timken brand, and we all know we get what we pay for. But with grease fittings, it's a good bet they will hold up well either way. My idler pulley bearing also went south, but I took out the rivets & replaced the bearing, then bolted the pulley halves back together. I already had the bearing on the shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Going to try to get these bearings replaced today. I picked them up from the dealer yesterday along with new races, seals and the idler that was no good. I'm going to cut the old bearings off the shaft as was mentioned in this thread, but getting the new ones on could be the fun part.
 

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Going to try to get these bearings replaced today. I picked them up from the dealer yesterday along with new races, seals and the idler that was no good. I'm going to cut the old bearings off the shaft as was mentioned in this thread, but getting the new ones on could be the fun part.
Put the shafts in the freezer for at least a couple hours. It will shrink them slightly, making it much easier getting the new bearings on. Of course file any marks on the shaft & emery cloth helps too. If you have access to a lathe, polish shafts with emery cloth on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Actually that's a good idea. I might even try heating the bearings in the oven to 200 or so, unless that would be unadvisable. Ill pack them with grease when cooled, of course.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Depending on the metal & how made, sometimes heating a part with a hole in it will actually shrink the hole, so may be best to leave the bearing room temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Where's my Easy Button, cuz that was easy! Took me about 2 hours to do all 3. Break for lunch, and I'll have the mower back together in a bit! Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
All back together, and under the tractor ready for the grass to dry out. This mower is now SILENT! I could probably mow without earplugs now! (but really, I won't. I need to keep what little hearing I have left lol!)
 
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