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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well as I stated before I am going to take my time and restore this 1970 MF10, today I took to the transaxle removed the pullys, buffed, and cleaned it to ready for paint. I hope the inside is as nice as the outside. I am thinking that the transaxle color is the same as the frame, is that correct?
 

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Premium Member
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Yes the Massey transmissions were painted flint gray metallic like the rest of the frame.
 

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Connoisseur of Rusty Junk
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Looks like a great start! Very nice job on the cleanup of that transaxle!
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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When I read the title of your thread, I thought you meant the kind of committed my wife talks about when I use the words "another" & "tractor" in the same sentence.

Nice start, you're already making great headway!

I was wondering, did they drill different holes for the HH120?
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No, the original mounting holes were used. Thanks for the support, I'm use I will need a lot of it before I get this back to being what it once was. The best part of this is that I will enjoy every turn of the wrench, that and the end result is what it's all about for me.
 

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Accumulator
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Looks like you are off to a good start on your restoration.
 
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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have been through a lot of these posts and have not seen much about the plastic dash, is there somewhere to get a new, reproduction or one in good shape. Most of the mounting holes for mine are broken off or badly cracked. Fortunately my front hood rim is in good shape.
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well got her striped down without braking anything except the stearing wheel and ready for blasting and hand cleanup and primer. Will be looking for some new parts as the privious owners fixed (everything) with a welder, and not big on maintaince. Wood Floor Rectangle Flooring Composite material Any tips or tricks are welcome and appriciated.
 

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Elf guardian
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greencoach47 said:
I have been through a lot of these posts and have not seen much about the plastic dash, is there somewhere to get a new, reproduction or one in good shape. Most of the mounting holes for mine are broken off or badly cracked. Fortunately my front hood rim is in good shape.
Not aware of anyone making reproduction dash boards.
You might keep an eye on ebay. Same dash for MF 16,14,12,10,8,and 7.
I've repaired a few that where the same as you describe. I use an automotive bumper repair kit.
Basicly it's a bondo kit with fiber cloth. Seams to hold better than some of the other attempts I've seen.
 

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Tractorholic
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866 Posts
What I would do is to line the inside of the dash with something like foil. Then make a fiberglass mold of the dash from the bottom of the metal plate to the mounting holes. Now build this up, maybe add some washers where the 4 holes are, and just lay the cloth in nice and heavy. Once you have a nice "backer plate" made to perfectly fit the dash you can either use some epoxy to glue it to the inside of the dash, and the broken pieces to the backer, or build up any missing chunks. The fiberglass work should not only fix the problem, but create a stronger dash. By also using the lower holes of the metal dash plate, you gain bolted strength as well.

If you can find somebody to do it, the plastic can be welded with a plastic welder. I have a friend that rebuilds bumpers, and he did me a favor and fixed mine for me. This is a very strong bond, but I may still create a fiberglass insert to strengthen the dash up a little bit.

Here are the photos of the repair process. Mine was very rough, and I ended up taking two very rough dash panels to make one good one. I had one with a huge broken lip on top, and one that somebody chopped up to fit a car battery under the hood. I smoothed out the broken section of the "better" cowl, and formed a patch from the cut up cowl. I even used some of the bottom that had a better bolt flange on once side.





You can see, even with a pro, it's a rough job to start. You pretty much melt the plastic and push a filler rod into the plastic while it's in a melted state. This makes for a pretty strong fix, but it looked pretty rough when I first brought it home.





Although, once sanded down, it does look a little better. Just to note, the "stitches" are just that. He used the tip of the tool to melt my patch piece in place before adding the filler rod.





This is a good shot to show where I would make the fiberglass backing plate. It would be right up to the bottom of the metal dash plate cut out hole. It would fill the curve and go right down to the bottom edge. Final trimming can make it the same shape as the bottom edge shape. Ideally, one the patch is nice and thick, sanded, and trimmed to size. I would scuff up the inside of the dash, and the outside of the fiberglass patch. A coat of epoxy on the inside of the cowl and some clamps / bolts used to secure the reinforcement in place, will make for a better than original fix.
I know GTReproductions was playing around with my idea for this, but I have not seen any headway on making them.

 

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Accumulator
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Wow,that is a nice job.:thumbs:
 

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Elf guardian
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Now that's a top notch repair.
Great idea on the backing plate. Someone should pursue that.
I don't think there are any dashboards out there that aren't cracked.
 

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Tractorholic
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Thank you very much, nice job and well thought out, I will pursue this. I have a couple more questions at this point. my front axle spindle bushings are so worn that the axle holes are no long round, I was wondering if I could insert new bushings and fill the gaps with JB weld. I was also wondering if anyone has tried the paints offered by Yesterdays Tractor Co. on line, they are reproduced by a company called Tisco and offered by the gallon, quart and spray can.
 

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Tractorholic
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Don't know about the bushings, have the same question too. as for the paint. there is a sticky for the paint codes on this site. any reputable automotive paint supplier could mix them for you, I an going to use polyurithane hardner in mine. makes it easier to spray, more durable. I prefer PPG products.
 

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Tractorholic
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If you mean the axle ends where the spindles attach, I think some JB weld placed behind the new bushings will work just fine. You may also have wear at the frame where the axle bolt for the center pivot goes through. That is a very common wear area as well. I made new 1/4" thick washers on my lathe that fit the new bolt as a slip fit. I then bolted the axle in place with these spacers acting like washers. Once they were lined up, I welded them to the frame. Now my pivot bolt has a good 1/4" to sit on. I just hope it does not give me issues attaching a snow blower! I am sure I could work around it though.

 
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Tractorholic
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Thanks, that washer was welded to the frame after that photo (Just my welds were not "show quality" due to a hard area to get my mig gun into.

As for the axle, I say find a replacement, that may be serviceable, but it's pretty hacked. Touch base with Mike above and see what you can work out, you will be better in the long run.
 
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