tried a bearing seperater under wheel and managed to break it so the hub iss still siezed on shaft and now i need a steering wheel. any ideas to get the wheel off if i find one on a tractor.also was told there is a diference between vari drive and hydra drive
Welcome back. I don't have any specific information for you. Now that the steering wheel is broken, can you apply heat and try to break the rust bond that way? I've seen enough on here to know that this is a fairly common problem when trying to repair these. I've also gotten the impression that you need to be careful about trying to beat on the shaft,
Difference? Not on the steering wheels that I know of. I could be wrong, or it might be a years thing.
The only way I have ever had any luck with a stuck one is months of steady soaking with PB Blaster, AeroKroil, Gibbs, etc and then remove nut, wire brush the shaft as much as you can, put nut on with a washer under it.
Tighten nut as much as you can (yes I said tighten) then whack it one with a piece of pipe on the nut. (do not hit the end of the shaft.) This seemed to jar the rust a little. Dad's suggestion.
Take nut off to one thread past flush and do the method you described above.
They can be brutal on many GT's to remove. even worse if the center cap is missing and it spent years outside.
On my MF12 Hydro I went in and cut a slit in the steering wheel hub, I used a die grinder with a cutting disk. I have seen that there were different wheels on them but they all fit, it was just the design of the wheel was different. I think the difference depended on the year of the tractor. If you go to AGCO parts book you can search "12 tractor" or "10 tractor" so you can look at the exploded parts diagrams to see what was used on them.
I found a nice one on Ebay, but one of our site sponsors may have something as well.
My MF12 parts book shows steering wheel part number 530 905 M1 for variable speeds with serial number 1446 810 208 and up, and steering wheel part number 511 007 M1 for variable speeds with prior serial numbers. It shows nothing for Hydro's except for the steering arm. The steering wheel on my MF12 is from a Massey 1450.
They can be a bugger to get off.
After wrecking one, struggling with a couple more, I came up with a setup, that works for me.
In order to get a good pull on the hub, with a bearing puller, I took a 2" long piece of pipe, about
the same ID, as the post OD, and slit it in half lengthwise. Tuck it up into the hub, against the steel
part of the hub. Use masking tape to hold in place, and then band it with a couple of gear clamps. Not
so tight, that it's binding to the post too much. Put the nut on the shaft, flush with shaft. Put a 1/4" thick steel
disc over the nut and shaft, and then your puller. PB blaster, pulling, tapping, and time.
I had the hub of a wheel stuck on a Ross gear shaft and used a technique similar to Chris to get it off. You should be able to get a new wheel through one of our sponsors. I got a JD317 wheel from Joesoutdoorpower. I had trrouble getting the wheel off of a MF8. I just kept soaking it with penetrating oil and applied a bit of heat with a heat gun, not enough to melt anything. I did this a few times over a 2 week period and kept a puller on it with tension. Eventually it popped off. Patience seems to be the key.
Dang not sure what happened but this is the second time I am writing this, A window came up and said "This web page has expired"
Last summer I had to repair broken spokes on the steering wheel of my MF12G again, and the previous owner had the same problem. The crude nature of this kept me from posting, but maybe someone can refine it a little.
I notched a piece of angle iron to slip under the steering wheel and drilled a couple holes to use an automotive wheel puller. It worked but the angle iron bent up some. A big washer was then welded to the hub and spokes to spread the torque out some. Since the repair was crude anyway I mounted a spare horn button from a '55 GMC that was laying around here over the repair.
I just took the wheel off of Dads 12 ....I first took the nut off the center and took pb blaster to it three days off and on then put the nut part way back on an used a three arm pulley puller and a long socket upside down so flat side was between the puller screw and wheel nut put a peace of steel plate above the socket to put pressure on with the puller screw and tightened down on it till I felt if it gets any tighter it could break the steering wheel then hit the top of the puller bolt hard about three times and it popped right off. :thumbs:
Ok scratch what I said in my last post just took my 7s wheel off and it fought me all the way only advise I could give is soak soak soak with penetrating oil this one really had me stunned at how hard it came off but I finally got it but wow it was a tough one.....Im wondering now if a person could drill two or three small holes between the shaft and wheel and kept filling with oil if that wouldn't help because it looks to me like the oil wasn't even getting to the spline were the rust bond really is .......just some idea's hope it will help some in the future .