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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again,

So after the engine blew up in my poor little MF8, I've turned my attention to my MF 12. First I fixed the flat rear tire by installing a tube. Thanks to those who suggested this fix. Then I fixed the flat front tire by pumping "Slime" into the tube of the front tire. Found a new muffler at Tractor Suppy Co., really adds a touch of class to this old jewel. The engine I am leaving alone now, save for changing the oil. It looks like it only takes about a quart, is this correct? I've seen specs for an HH100 that call for about 1.5 quarts. Ordered and installed new belts using the numbers in the sticky thread, thanks for that.
On adjusting the variable drive, I've followed the instructions and find that there is quite a bit of muscle needed to move the drive lever through from "1" to "P", is that normal? Also, while the variable drive lever works well to move from "clutched" to "brakes applied", the clutch pedal does not. Any thought on this? The clutch pedal seems to apply the brake shortly before the variable sheave moves enough to disengage. How far should the sheave move for a clutched position, or is there a belt deflection gauge that will let me know if the sheave is moving enough to clutch properly?

And since I'm proud of it, and everyone wants pictures:
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, did some more work on the variable drive and think I had the brakes too tight. Loosened the brake adjustment and everything works smoothly now.

Now I have a question about the deck and the braces. Can anyone tell me why the extra holes in the brace, and what the extra mounting hole in the bracket is for?
 

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Electric Tractors
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Sounds like maybe the brake is adjusted a little tight???
The last step of the Vari-Drive adjusting procedure is adjusting the brake, it should be tight enough so the tractor does not move forward but can be pushed backwards when in park.
A little bit of lube on the linkages helps.

The 2 holes on the mower deck arms are to move the deck back a bit as the belt wears.
The idea is with a new belt use the bottom holes, as the belt wears if it starts to sip move the arms to the top holes.
 

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Tractorholic
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DH1 said:
Sounds like maybe the brake is adjusted a little tight???
The last step of the Vari-Drive adjusting procedure is adjusting the brake, it should be tight enough so the tractor does not move forward but can be pushed backwards when in park.
A little bit of lube on the linkages helps.

The 2 holes on the mower deck arms are to move the deck back a bit as the belt wears.
Well I haven't moved it, but it seems that if moving to a different hole changes the set back of the mower, then that would change the adjustment of the front hitch, lifting the front? How high can these decks be set to cut when using the rear rollers anyway?
 

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Electric Tractors
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HowardsMF155 said:
DH1 said:
Sounds like maybe the brake is adjusted a little tight???
The last step of the Vari-Drive adjusting procedure is adjusting the brake, it should be tight enough so the tractor does not move forward but can be pushed backwards when in park.
A little bit of lube on the linkages helps.

The 2 holes on the mower deck arms are to move the deck back a bit as the belt wears.

Well I haven't moved it, but it seems that if moving to a different hole changes the set back of the mower, then that would change the adjustment of the front hitch, lifting the front? How high can these decks be set to cut when using the rear rollers anyway?
Not sure what the max deck height is, mine is all the way up and it cuts about 3" +or- a bit.
When you move the mower back the front goes up a bit.
 

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Premium Member
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I had a hard time adjusting the vari drive on my MF12 the first time I did it. After following DH1's advice I redid it and worked like a champ.

Make sure you take the brake rod off during the whole adjustment and adjust it last after everything else is finished. My vari drive is harder to put in to park then to move in any other gear range so to me that would be normal because there are a lot of factors at play putting more tension on the handle then.
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I thought I'd resurrect this thread since I once again have questions about my 12 G. I've noticed that the "hub" that attatches to the axle, and to which the wheel is attached, is flopping around on both axles. Has anyone else experienced this flopping, and how did you fix it? It appears that the outboard section of the axle/hub assembly is still pretty tight, but the inboard section is where the motion is occuring. Should I drill and tap a set screw to tighten the hub down and stop the movement?

Thanks
Howard
 
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