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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The ignition switch on the 8 I am restoring is shot. The connections have a variable and highish resistance when you turn on the switch or go to start. I've tried cleaning it and the rivets are sound on the back so it looks like it's toast. I can get a new one like it but I also have a newer design switch that is a much nicer unit with better keys. The problem is I would have to enlarge the hole to install it and it wouldn't be stock. Do you guys think it is better to stay with the stock style switch?
 

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Watch putting in something non-OEM, a lot of the newer ones have power to the ign system, instead of short to ground for kill.

If you take your time, you might be able to take it apart and clean it up. We were successful with Ryan's and it's held up well. I know we were lucky, but it's possibly worth the try on a rainy afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Watch putting in something non-OEM, a lot of the newer ones have power to the ign system, instead of short to ground for kill.

If you take your time, you might be able to take it apart and clean it up. We were successful with Ryan's and it's held up well. I know we were lucky, but it's possibly worth the try on a rainy afternoon.
I will probably give it a shot. Just wondering how you got the back off it. It looks like it was swaged on.
 

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It is. I used a tiny pair of channel locks and went around & around, opening a little at a time. Before you start, mark the case and onto the wafer with a good marker to aid in reassembly. Once it was able to be opened, pretty straightforward... But watch for springs. I think I remember a spring in there somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is a pretty common problem with old tractors. I've so far done the PTO switch on the 314 and the 2 safety switches on the 8. I'll be taking pictures of this job as well. I'll watch out for springs but inevitably they fly out and disappear into another dimension.
Interestingly the headlight switch on the 8 is still OK. It's the same type of switch but with a different type of actuator than the safety switches. There's more work left to do on the 8 than I had thought but it's all part of the fun to solve problems like this especially if it results in saving the original switch and a bit of money as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the switch apart tonight and fixed it. It wasn't as easy as the safety switch, but it's done. I took plenty of photos and I'll post them tomorrow. Gotta be up at 5 so it's bedtime for me!
 

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Ok heres the pics of the switch.
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Before disassembly and in the vice. I used the green plyers in the background to role up the edge of the case.

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The terminal board loose and then removed and tipped over beside the switch. notice the notch so it's impossible to assemble the terminal board wrong.

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After lifting out the black disk there are 2 detent balls left in the case. There are 6 springs on the black disc. 2 coil springs on each side, for the detents and contacts, the large torsion spring that provides the return from the start position and a small spring over the end of the shaft. The contacts can be seen laying to the right of the switch body. Note the orientation of the black disc as it only works one way.

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Another view of the black disc and the terminal board cleaned for reassembly. I also cleaned the contacts and springs and lightly lubricated the moving parts.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Electric blue
Reassembled. I used some JB weld to make sure it stays put. The edge was a bit crumbly after being bent to open and close the switch. All the positions measured good contact. Oh, be sure to clean up the inside rim of the switch body as this is what makes the contact at the outside rim of the terminal board for the off position of the switch.
 

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