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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I aquired a Snapper 1855a last year with a 54" mowing deck and I need to replace the blades due to interference damage. I have tried to look for aftermarket blades but cannot find any other than universals that may not fit correctly.

Is there a crossover number that I could use to find blades or does anybody have a number that they use or have used that works.

Any help would be very appreciated!

Thanks,

Paul
 

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Here's the original part number info:

Snapper 7019883
BLADE, MOWER CUTTING, 16.25"

--Eric
 

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I'm just using the appropriate length blades, and then tack welding them to the 8 point star spindle adapter. The tack welds work as well as the original shear pins, provided you have access to a little welder.

The other option would be to get the appropriate length blades, and use a good carbide bit and some cutting fluid and drill the holes for the shear pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the welcome.

The blades on Partstree are listed as 16.25" but the blades that are in the 54" deck are 18.5".

In my research I found the part # of 538-326-M3 for Massey version of the tractor.....maybe that helps? I don't know.

Oregon has a part # of 99-104 that was a direct replacement but from what I can see there are no dealers that carry this anymore. (Maybe there is a small mom and pop shop out there that has a few of these in a barn or garage somewhere out there)

I may have to go with the suggestions of altering a set to make it fit or welding (I do have a 110v mig) to the adapter.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Thanks for the welcome.

The blades on Partstree are listed as 16.25" but the blades that are in the 54" deck are 18.5".

In my research I found the part # of 538-326-M3 for Massey version of the tractor.....maybe that helps? I don't know.

Oregon has a part # of 99-104 that was a direct replacement but from what I can see there are no dealers that carry this anymore. (Maybe there is a small mom and pop shop out there that has a few of these in a barn or garage somewhere out there)

I may have to go with the suggestions of altering a set to make it fit or welding (I do have a 110v mig) to the adapter.

Thanks for the help!
Ah, shoot...I should've been paying closer attention! You're exactly right. The 16.25" blades are for the 48" timed deck. Partstree.com has most things right, but there are a few things like this that you have to pay attention to. Something else that I've seen in reality, but not on partstree, is there is a 54" deck, and also a 60" deck (although the 60" deck cuts closer to a 58" swath).

If you go the route of making your own blades to fit, do you have some in mind? I've wanted to try a high lift blade, or one of the ninja or gator style blades.

Also, while you're into the bottom end of the the deck, do your spindles have grease fittings in them? It'd be a great time to add them if they're not already there.

--Eric
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't think my spindles have grease fittings, that sounds like a good idea! Are there any examples on here for where to drill and tap for the fittings?
 

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I don't think my spindles have grease fittings, that sounds like a good idea! Are there any examples on here for where to drill and tap for the fittings?
I don't have great pictures, but I'll try to explain. The spindle units have a needle bearing in one and, and a roller ball bearing in the other. The grease fitting just needs to be somewhere in the middle of these, such that when you grease it, the grease will reach both bearings. When I tore my deck apart, it looked like noone had ever been into it before...and the seals and bearings were needing replaced. If you decide to go that route, it works even better to remove the inner seal from the bearing. For instance, the standard bearing will be a sealed bearing, meaning the it's a unit comprising seal-bearing-seal. Manually remove the seal from the side pointing toward the center of the spindle, so it is able to accept grease more readily from the zirk fitting. If you have a good local bearing shop, they should also be able to sell you a bearing with a seal in only one side, exactly for applications like these. I have part numbers somewhere if you need me to look them up.

The only other thing to consider about zirk placement, is the dust "cup" that might be there to cover the spindles from the underside. Mine were pretty well rusted out. I ended up using a hub bearing cap from a 7,000 lb trailer axle as a new dust cover, as it was the exact diameter I needed. That being said, I'm not sure the dust cups are really critical. If your dust covers are still in place, and you opt to keep them, put the grease fitting up high enough on the spindle that it won't interfere wiht the dust cover.

Here's some random pictures that may help. If they don't, then just disregard :)

Automotive tire Wood Gas Bedrock Circle

Automotive tire Plant Wood Working animal Grass

Automotive lighting Plant Automotive tire Drinkware Tree

Plant Green Automotive tire Bumper Tree

Wood Plant Gas Grass Circle

Wood Grass Bumper Glove Gas

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle

--Eric
 

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ENafziger / Eric

I can see in that last pic that you put the grease fitting just above the dust cover. Looks like my project just got a little more involved than simply replacing the blades....... oh well, better do it right the first time!
If you install the grease fittings, and grease the spindles a few times per season, there's no reason that they shouldn't last forever!
 
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