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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Long time lurker here but I have posted before when I first got my tube frame. I have to many projects already but seeing as to how scarce Bolens is down here, I couldn't pass up on a LF that popped up on FB. Not in great shape but over time, hope to get it decently looking and running.
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It was hard to start and kept frying my battery cable, so I spent a few hrs trying to learn the schematics and trying to figure out what the problem was. Eventually gave up and decided to replace all the wires on it.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Electrical wiring Machine


Not a pro by any means but I think I am doing alright lol. Starts right up! I am missing the hr meter gauge which was turned into a mechanical oil pressure gauge and the volt meter gauge is broken. Think I will be going to Brian and replacing it with an ammeter and not worry about the hr gauge. Apart from that, I am having one issue:
Schematic Font Parallel Rectangle Auto part

If I am understanding the diagram correctly, when the ignition switch is on RUN, am I suppose to have power on all positions? (X Y, B A). For some reason I am not getting any power on A or X and do have power on B and Y all the time. The tractor starts with out a problem but I don't have any lights. Also, I see a line go from X to B on the schematics. Maybe I am suppose to bridge these and that is why I don't have power to A? I don't know lol.

If anybody can help me out, I'd greatly appreciate it. I have had no luck trying to find a close up picture of the back of the ignition switch. Oh and maybe a picture of the warning lights? All the wires on them are black so I don't know what is what and I'd hate to burn them out (assuming they are still good).

Thanks in advance,
Jesse
 

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To check with 12 v test light, Connect test light to chassis ground and touch the battery stud on the solenoid (16), it should light. Touch test light to the circuit breaker (15) attached to the stud of the ammeter (17), it should light. Touch to the second stud of the ammeter and it should light. Touch the test light to the X and B terminal on the switch and it should light. With the switch in the on position, touch the test light to the Y and A terminals of the switch and they should light. With the switch held to start position, touch the S terminal and it should light. You can also use a volt meter to do the checks
 

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If I am understanding the diagram correctly, when the ignition switch is on RUN, am I suppose to have power on all positions? (X Y, B A). For some reason I am not getting any power on A or X and do have power on B and Y all the time. The tractor starts with out a problem but I don't have any lights. Also, I see a line go from X to B on the schematics. Maybe I am suppose to bridge these and that is why I don't have power to A? I don't know lol.
Congratulations on your new tractor acquisition.

Attached is a wiring diagram from the large frame service manual that may be a little easier to understand. I have made some notes in red regarding the ignition switch terminal - hope this helps.
 

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Here are a couple pics of the warning light wiring, and the Ign. switch wires. 2 wires have been cut and by passed, which I will straighten out. The are both red with yellow tracer, and originally went to safety switches.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To check with 12 v test light, Connect test light to chassis ground and touch the battery stud on the solenoid (16), it should light. Touch test light to the circuit breaker (15) attached to the stud of the ammeter (17), it should light. Touch to the second stud of the ammeter and it should light. Touch the test light to the X and B terminal on the switch and it should light. With the switch in the on position, touch the test light to the Y and A terminals of the switch and they should light. With the switch held to start position, touch the S terminal and it should light. You can also use a volt meter to do the checks
Hey Bud,

Thanks for this, looks like Stew and Guy have answered my question about bridging X and B. This should solve my issues about not having any power on those connections. If I still have problems, I will follow your instructions.

Thanks again!

Congratulations on your new tractor acquisition.

Attached is a wiring diagram from the large frame service manual that may be a little easier to understand. I have made some notes in red regarding the ignition switch terminal - hope this helps.
Thanks for the diagram Stew, your notes told me what I needed to know but now some of my wires/tape are the wrong color lol

Here are a couple pics of the warning light wiring, and the Ign. switch wires. 2 wires have been cut and by passed, which I will straighten out. The are both red with yellow tracer, and originally went to safety switches.

And of course, they didn’t come out in the correct order. ha ha
Hey Guy,
Thank you for the pictures. No worries about the order they are in. I put them on my computer and rearranged them to make sense. Your pictures have been helpful. Would it be to much to ask of I can get one more pic of the other side of that four pin block on the warning light side?

Thank you everyone, I am very grateful for your help. This should fix my power issues.

Jesse
 

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If you need any other pics of anything, I’m more than happy to help. With the exception of some overspray from poor masking, and some cable / line routing, I believe this tractor to be fairly correct.
One thing I noticed, is your gas tank, and battery are opposite mine. Maybe different years, I don’t know? Oh, I need to figure out correct battery hold down, and if there are any closure panels around the battery too…
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice find! I would love to have one like that in my barn. Once you get it up and going, keep it in its work clothes, perfect, IMHO.
Hey Dave, not sure how I missed your post but Thanks! I will probably stay like this for a while. Once I get this sorted out and fix some minor things, it will stay like this until I finish other projects. Trying to finish my sons JD 140 and then I want to get on to the G11XL that I have and then I will circle back to the LF. I'd like to work on the panels since they are rusted through at the heel so the panels are going to end up getting some attention unfortunately, but it is going to be a loooooong while before they do.

Nice tractor! Is that engine Kohler?
Yes it is, although it looks to be a replacement. Tomorrow I am going back to pick up what appears to be the original engine and another half assembled engine with a small dash and gauges mounted to it. Never seen such a thing.

Ask, and you shall receive…
Trans temp wires on the right side, as looking at it in the pic. Oil pressure on the right.
If you need any other pics of anything, I’m more than happy to help. With the exception of some overspray from poor masking, and some cable / line routing, I believe this tractor to be fairly correct.
One thing I noticed, is your gas tank, and battery are opposite mine. Maybe different years, I don’t know? Oh, I need to figure out correct battery hold down, and if there are any closure panels around the battery too…
Guy, you are then man! Thank you!!!
I wont hesitate to ask, thanks! I did notice that the battery and fuel tank was backwards. Maybe that bracket belongs to a different LF? I tried swapping tthem around but it was a no go. Only one side has the hole for the shut off valve on the fuel tank.

Congrats! Looks like you're getting her sorted out.
Thank you! Little by little we go!

Thanks again guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey guys,

So I found these neat little connectors!
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Unfortunately, that didn't fix my electrical issue. After double checking everything I already had connected, I decided to take a quick look at the ignition switch. I grabbed the one that belongs to the JD 140 and gave it a test and wouldn't you know!
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We have powa!!!!!!!! Looks like I have a burned out light bulb. Since everything worked, checked the differences on the ignition switch. Looks like the LF has the wrong one. The pole that I was trying to get power too seems to be a ground.

Automotive tire Finger Motor vehicle Rim Gas

Looking at the screen, JD on the left, Bolens on the Right.

The JD has a patent # on it. The Bolens has a generic switch with no markings.

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Went ahead and ordered the right one for the Bolens. Next I will be working on the warning lights!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, went to pick up the rest of the stuff the guy had.

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The guy I bought the tractor from stored these outside in the open so not sure how usable or rebuildable are those engines but I do have a couple of coils, starters and plenty of replacement parts. The green one might be the original to the tractor. Was hoping he had the top heat shield that held the serial number on it but it wasn't in here. Oh well.

Also have a couple of these mini dashes with ammeters so that is another plus!

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Anyways, that is it for now.

Thanks for looking.
Jesse
 

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Those "dashes" look like what Wisconsin used to put on some of their engines.
They also look exactly like the dash on the Promark wood chipper I am working on. If anyone has a proper throttle linkage set up for this engine that they would like to take a photo of and post it in my no spark wood chipper thread, it would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
K series Twin parts are getting harder to find
Yea, thinking of buying some evaporust and sticking that crank shaft, cam shaft and block in there and see if they are any good. It just looks like surface rust so it might not have been outside for to long.

Those "dashes" look like what Wisconsin used to put on some of their engines.
Unfortunately wouldn't know, way before my time but they do look pretty neat. I'd imagine they were installed on stand alone equipment like pumps and generators, huh?

They also look exactly like the dash on the Promark wood chipper I am working on. If anyone has a proper throttle linkage set up for this engine that they would like to take a photo of and post it in my no spark wood chipper thread, it would be appreciated.
There might be that blue one that is still on the engine. Let me see if things are still connected and if they are, I'll clean them up the best I can and post it up for you. Hopefully it will help you out.
 
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