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Old Tractor Addict
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to all,
Here is my still improving and always under construction but functional and very effective homemade "Allis-Grader" history with lots of pictures.
We moved to our lake property in winter of 2005 and now have about 600 foot of driveway to maintain. I had a box blade for the rear of my ford LGT 145 and my brother has a small Kubota with a back blade. These both worked OK but still left some "whoop-de-doos" and seemed to make the humps and holes grow instead of smoothing them out. So off I go to cyber space to see what was available that would do a better job.
Ended up at a site called roadgradingschool.com that had some good practical info regarding the advantages of a center mount grader blade over a rear mount, course they wanted you to buy their grader, which looks like it works great but way too large for me. But I did consider my self more educated on graders in general after going through their site. So I proceeded to round up some scraps and built me a grader blade that I used under my Allis 919H, used an old MTD plow swivel, cut up sides of a 100 pound LP tank, parts from cub cadet mower carrier. BIG difference over the rear mounts, worked real well, was able to set the blade square and at an angle either direction. Hooked up a solid lift link and could raise the front of the tractor off the ground when down all the way.
I used this blade and tractor for 5 years or so and was real happy with the outcome. BUT, thanks to the road grading school info, swirling around in my head was an idea or two on what could be done to make it better.
In early spring of 2010 I found a CL buy close enough to go for a trip. Picked up an A/C 700 series with no engine, But in real good shape with a 3 speed with high low. Worth the drive at the price to be a parts tractor. When I got it home it was in really good shape, almost hated to disassemble it, thought should just park it out back for a while and get working in a Simplicity 3314H that I had gotten earlier and was going to part out for sure, I wanted the front clutch and the electric lift from the 3314, was also going to keep anything else I may need down the road for my other tractors from this and sell off the rest. As the simplicity came apart and I got down to the front end disassemble the proverbial light bulb went on above my head. Out comes the sawzall and some c-clamps, a 2x4 to support the hood and here is a longer wheelbase tractor to use as a grader.


Obviously the original set of front tires would come off, the engine could go in the original location to save the cost and hassle of longer driveshaft, etc.
So I am now thinking, " I can do this, I have a welder, not real good at it but gotta learn sometime, lots of scrap and leftover steel pieces around, and as long as I dont spend lots of cash, the wifes OK with most anything I do tractor wise".
So the day comes when I get ready to weld the two pieces together and I realize this would be too long, and probably kind of weak, so I end up with this



Added 13 inches to the front end. As I am standing their admiring my bad welds that darn light bulb went on again, (should of left the switch off), and I thought about the two old 3 speed A/C B112 tractors that I have sitting around growing rust. Are the gear ratios the same? Could I hook the two together and make it drive both rear ends? All sorts of questions I am asking myself????? But finally decided why not I did the front end and probably cant hurt it any worse and may get better at welding in the process.
So back out scrounging parts and stuff and got the two coupled together







Used what I could find around here and ended up making it so that I could remove the rear rearend if I needed or wanted to. Next step was to get the power back to the second rearend. Also built up a rod to connect the two shifters together.



Used the pulley and lever set up from the mower drive on the other side of the tractor to be able to drop the rear rearend out if needed.



Next was to get the rear seat deck centered over the tires. Had to add some metal here to get the right set back.



Also wanted the rear support to be fairly sturdy as I was thinking a dump bed, so added some steel here too.


And under the deck





So this is what I ended up with, both hoods on for visual purposes.



The AC 710 originally came with a Kohler, so I had some rewiring to do for a permanent install of the 16 HP Briggs I had but as I was anxious to take it for a spin I did a temporary hookup with the fuel tank in sideways and the battery setting up front, as well as the muffler setting askew.





Ended up with about a 14 foot outside turning radius. Discovered it was easier to turn going backwards and found out that my shifter connection needs some refinement after I stopped while going over some of the bumps in the front yard, needed a little extra twist to get the rear rearend in gear. Course this happened as Kathy was watching me out the front window. She asked if I broke it already and I told her it was a design error, not a break down.
Eventually got the wiring all switched over for the Briggs. Added the starter generator and took off the original starter as the nose gear was stripped. Started it up and the only smoke was from the exhaust, none of that bad smelling electrical smoke. Did pretty good on the rewiring for a color blind guy.



This was to be my new blade, donated to the project by a friend.



but I had lots of Ideas regarding blade mount so for now time to try it with the old blade.

These were the only pictures I could find of the original blade I made for the 919H,


added 13 inches to the attachment arms to get it at the right spot under the grader.

In action shots to follow
OK going to stop for now and will get to the rest of the story with in the next few days
Greg
 

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Summer.
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welcom to GT Talk, looking forward to more pictures,
 

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Premium Member
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Very interesting grader. I can't get enough of turning ideas into working machines and it looks like your well on the way of having yours complete. I think I saw a video of it. You were driving with one drive in reverse and one in forward. Your wife was saying something about buying tires.:smile1:
 

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Premium Member
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Looks cool but you need to make the front wheels lean to one side like the big graders do.
 

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Squeaky Wheel
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Cvans, I think you may have him confused for tractormike who took an allis b12 and added another rear behind it (not extend the front). Because based on this build the trannys can never be put in opposite directions. However, I still love the idea of dual transaxles. Great project.

Also, for the record, tractormike named his the "Allis-Gator" and this project is the "Allis Grader"
 

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wvbuzzmaster you are correct on all accounts. I stand corrected. He did have to separate shift levers on that one. If I wasn't bald I'd think I was blond.:rolleyes:
 

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Accumulator
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13,481 Posts
That's going to look alright when finished.
 

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Super Moderator
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Greg, I'm happy to see this build posted here. I think it is a very cool tractor that has a lot of thought put into it. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

Casey, we now know what your 'problem' is. Anybody got some 'blond' jokes?

P.S. This would be a great entry into the featured tractor thread.
 

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Super Moderator
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Greg, thanks for the pictures and build description on the grader. I have a 300 ft. gravel driveway and some gravel trails and appreciate your need for a better solution than a rear blade. I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures as it progresses.
 

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Junk Whisperer
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Very nice project!
 

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Old Tractor Addict
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the kind words so far. I would have posted more last night but ran into the 20 picture limit so I deleted some and then decided should do a few things and get to bed. More to come tonight.
Greg
 

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Premium Member
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I will have to see about adjusting the 20 pic limit.

Welcome to GTtalk Greg. Very nice build you have and great write up.
 
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Super Moderator
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George, thanks. You don't want to miss any part of this build. I've seen it all, but will look again. This thing is neat!
 

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Old Tractor Addict
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Hey guys the 20 limit is OK, fortunately I was only over by four so it was no big deal, and I learned something too!

Continued from first post:
After getting the blade mounted I ran a pass down the drive with it once or twice a day before the following pictures. I knew that I had hit the property line marker that is in the center of our drive by the road as I felt a big tug when I went over it. Did not know I did this till a few days later when I had time to do the whole drive and wanted to get some pictures





And my quickie fix



Both that property marker and one more that is also in the drive have since been shortened by about 3 inches thanks to my cordless angle grinder and a shovel.

And this is how well it worked with the old blade with 13 inches added to the attachment arms
First pass north view



First path south


All done north



All done south



In action shots





This did work really well but as I said I had ideas and kind of a plan for a new swivel and mount utilizing the 5 foot blade I had. I will start that in my next reply cause I got lots of pictures
 
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Old Tractor Addict
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here is the story of my blade mount and swivel, bought a few bolts and scrounged up the rest.
Toyed around with several ideas as how to make a grader blade "circle" like a real road grader. After too much thinking and not enough doing this is what I did.

Started by going to the local shop that does the repair work on our company vehicles and asked for a brake rotor from a large truck. Missed the scrap guy by a day so he did not have any from a 3/4 truck which was what I had in mind. Ended up with one that had about a 14 inch diameter, this part was to be the "inner" circle. I then started making the "outer" circle by welding up flat steel strips clamped around the hub










Welded three together just a little loose around the edge of the rotor

Used a flat sheet and cut eight pieces of the same stock I made the rings from and made the base for my circle.



Built up a blade frame and swivel bracket



Which bolts through the brake rotor and to the base



Which then sets inside the three rings which were welded into this blue circle piece which just happened to be the ideal size.



And the Blue circle was welded to the hanger frame



When all the above pieces are put together







A few shots with it installed on the grader











And with the running boards modified and back on





Close to twenty, part four to follow
Greg
 
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Summer.
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looking forward to more pic.s and info.,
looking at the grader blade gave me an idear, i don't know if you have already done this but what if you mount rippers in frount of the blade ?
 
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