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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I started in on my "new" Snapper 1855 a couple days ago. When I bought it, the guy I bought it from said the carb was messed up. Well, the carb wasn’t that bad but it had several other issues. I did clean the carb and all the parts were there except one of the screws that hold the air cleaner on. The integral pump may be an issue as the diaphragm was not very flexible. Someone had added an external pump but had both lines plugged into the output ports. What were they thinking? Took that juryrig off and ran the vacuum pulse line back to the original pump. The tank was off so I dumped a little gas into the carb and gave the starter a spin. At least it turned over but never fired and sounded uneven when it spun. Disappointment! Pulled the plugs and checked for fire. No fire with the starter spinning but when I released the key I would see a spark or two while the engine was spinning down. Interesting. That’s when I found the ignition switch was Toro. Then I ran a wire straight from the battery to the coil and tried it again and, yes, we have fire! Put the plugs back in, dumped in some gas and gave her another spin and she kicked off and ran for a few seconds. I should have been thrilled but you could tell she was only hitting on one side. Pulled the plugs again and put my thumb over the holes and spun it again and sure enough it only had compression on one cylinder and you could hear it huffing through the carb. Major disappointment! After crying for a while, I pulled the head expecting to find a valve embedded in the piston or something of the sort. The intake valve was stuck open and after a little investigation I found the third screw for the air cleaner. Major relief! Put her all back together and tried her again. She fired up and ran on both cylinders for a few seconds. Put the tank back on, dumped in some gas and fired her up and she ran but was rough. After wasting a day messing with the carb I finally figured out the condenser was bad. Replaced it with one from a Kohler and she purrs like a kitten. New switch and carb kit is on the way but now it looks like my regulator is bad. 15VAC in (at idle) but zero volts out. Oh well, one step at a time.
 

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It is amazing some of the frustrations you can go through figuring out what is wrong. You did everything the right way in the same steps I would have done. Glad to hear you got her going :D
 

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It might take some time but all your troubles have been pretty cheap to fix so far. You will have a great tractor to work with when you are done with it!
I bought a Sears SS16 with a loader on it that had the same problems as your Onan did. The screw from the air cleaner housing was a hex head with a bit of a flange on it and it caught just enough to hold the intake valve open and not drop into the cylinder and mess things up. I was one happy camper to find out that was all that was wrong with it and it purrs like a kitten now.
 

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A day of frustration and less than $100 to have an 1855 up and running. Sounds like a great deal to me.
 

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Sounds like some good progress to me!

What will you use your 1855 for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
tractormike - It was quite a relief to find that screw in the valve. Had it been just a bit smaller it would have been in the head or piston or both.

nra1fer - I was hoping to use it to mow since it had two decks but one is just a shell. I've not taken the covers off the other deck but I don't think I'll like what I find. Two blades turn together and the other is a rebel. You think a broken belt? None of them turn easily which means bearings. The blades have been engaged in full contact rotation so new blades are necessary too. And the shafts are toast. I saw where someone had modded their deck to offset the front blade. It looks really neat but may be beyond my capability. To answer your question, I don't know yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A question to all the 1855 gurus. I think my rectifier/regulator is bad. No volts out. I found a couple on the net but they are apparently gold plated. I was wondering if anyone had had any success adapting an aftermarket rec/reg to work. Does anyone know the current rating of the alternator and regulator? There are a ton of rec/regs out there.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Be certain the regulator body has a good ground. They won't work unless grounded. Watch your oil level closely. Those vacuum pumps are notorious for getting pinholes & sucking fuel into the crankcase oil. I always go with electric pumps to avoid the possibility.
 

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mh81 said:
glad to hear you're making headway.
Garage/tractor time is better than work, even if it is a pita.
Sounds like you'll be having fun with it soon.
ditto !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had read somewhere that the regulators required a good ground so I checked and my ground was good. I took the regulator off to have a looksee and there were two screws holding the circuit card to the heat sink. Curiosity got the better of me and tried to take the card off. Well, it doesn't come off unless you desolder the rectifier diode which is pressed into the heat sink. I'm normally not a "if it won't fit, force it" type but I pried the card off with a screwdriver anyway and pulled the leads out of the diode. I guess you'd call that a "destructive analysis". Still waiting for y'all to come up with an alternative regulator solution!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I tore into the mowing deck today. Very disappointing. About half the cover bolts came out and the rest broke off. All three pulleys are bad, one belt was broken and the other couldn't be trusted, all three spindles were binding and the drive shaft U-joints are bound up. The gearbox spun free and the wheels turned though!
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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adamscr said:
I tore into the mowing deck today. Very disappointing. About half the cover bolts came out and the rest broke off. All three pulleys are bad, one belt was broken and the other couldn't be trusted, all three spindles were binding and the drive shaft U-joints are bound up. The gearbox spun free and the wheels turned though!
I was going to point you to Larry's mowing deck mods, but I see you've already found it!
 

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Once you get the spindles off take them apart and check to see what the spindle shaft is like.It's hopefully bearings are all you'll need.If you haven't got them here's reaplacement brg #"s upper's are NTN 6205 LLU lower's are needle brg's # INA HK2516 and the seal's are # PPP 25x32x4 .Lots have made the spindle's greaseable,just by drilling into the spindle adding a grease fitting,and when installing the upper brg just remove the dust shield from one side of the brg [that face's into the hub]. Will be keeping a watch on your progress. BTW nice tractor .Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Does anyone know if the pto shaft U-joints are rebuildable? It looks like they are pressed together and then crimped so they won't come apart. I read a post someplace where someone had found replacement joints that could be welded in. I've noticed that none of the joints on the 1855 have grease fittings. My MF14 has two joints in the drive shaft and both have fittings. Seems like a backward step. However, the 1855 has fittings at both ends and center pivot of the front axle where I had to add them to the 14.

BTW, here is the number on the intact belt from the deck: Dayco 12248M25.
 

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I use Weasel #6 yokes.
At most implement dealers and TSC also Fleet Farm.
Good luck on those timing belt. I have not been able To source those puppies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As far as the rectifier/regulator issue is concerned, I found this on the net and ordered it: Kohler Voltage Regulators. Part number AKH6001 looks to be the same and has the same pinouts. I'll let y'all know how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ducky - Do the Weasler yokes come disassembled? I assume you welded them onto the end of the shafts and the heat would boil out the grease and burn the seals if they were already assembled. I couldn't find a price on them either. Thanks for your input, BTW.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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adamscr said:
As far as the rectifier/regulator issue is concerned, I found this on the net and ordered it: Kohler Voltage Regulators. Part number AKH6001 looks to be the same and has the same pinouts. I'll let y'all know how it works.
That will work perfectly!
 
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