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1967 Craftsman 856C & 857C
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I bought and added another Craftsman yesterday to my shed from a member here. It is a 6hp Tecumseh HOWEVER it is frozen solid, a.k.a. seized. I REALLY HOPE i can save this engine if possible since it is the original but if not I do have a spare engine for it. I am planning on taking the spark plug out and spraying some PB blaster in there and letting it sit a few days to see if it frees up but, IF ANYONE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS I AM ALL EARS!!

All I know about this engine is it is a Tecumseh 6 horse, BUT I don't know what model it is like my 10 horse Tecumseh.

The engine model number is: 143576012
The serial number is: 700600461

Thank you everyone in advance for their help with these questions!
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Tread
 

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I know nothing about Craftsman's but here is what I do with seized engines.

Pull the spark plug and fill the cylinder with automatic transmission fluid right up till it is flush with the plug hole. Check it daily, if it drains down fill it up again. Do this for a week before you even try to turn the engine over. I've had to soak some for over 3 weeks but they eventually broke free by turning the crank with nothing more than a Channel Lock pliers.

Once you break it free turn it over a few times to get the ATF off from the top of the piston. Change the oil before attempting to start.

Nice machine! I hope you have good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the suggestion Achto. I took the spark plug out and sprayed some PB in it today, and plan on spraying more in it the rest of this week. If the PB doesn't help any then I will try your suggestion unless someone else has an idea.

Thanks again!
 

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If the engine is a 6 horse it's probably a H60 or HM 60. I know there's a cross reference chart out there somewhere for Sears to Tecumseh but I cant seem to find it right now.

As for the engine being stuck, if it's not too bad I've had luck in the past filling the cylinder with Evapo-Rust and letting it sit for a few days and either refill it or flush it out and put fresh in
 

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I would mix a little diesel fuel with the transmission fluid.

And when you get free and running I would mix some transmission fluid in with the fresh oil and with the gas. That will help clear her up. But if your just trying to free it up to get it apart to rebuild the engine you don’t need to do my second suggestion.

Noel
 

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If the engine is a 6 horse it's probably a H60 or HM 60. I know there's a cross reference chart out there somewhere for Sears to Tecumseh but I cant seem to find it right now.

As for the engine being stuck, if it's not too bad I've had luck in the past filling the cylinder with Evapo-Rust and letting it sit for a few days and either refill it or flush it out and put fresh in
Here's the chart. On page 11 it says it's an HH60.
 

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I have had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil on a stuck snowmobile engine.
 
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I would just start taking it apart until I found parts that would not come apart. Then when I found parts that would not come apart decide why they would not come apart and how to deal with that issue. If all parts come apart they should turn nicely when they are lubricated and properly re assembled. This also gives you the opportunity to asses the condition of the parts and decide if replacements are necessary or advisable. Since the only cost of this is time and a gasket set it should be a good investment.
Don
 

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Pull the head and scrape and wire wheel the carbon deposits. The smaller Aluminum block Tecumseh engines seem to carbon up pretty bad. Those carbon deposits swell up over time and the only way to remove it is to literally scrape at it with a flat tipped screwdriver and wire wheel it off. Spray it down with a heavy coat of PB Blaster. Grab the valves with a pair of pliers and try to turn them. If the valves turn free grab the flywheel with both hands and slowly start rocking it back and forth. Do not force it to turn or you Will break a piston ring or 2.

Once you get it to move a little just keep rocking it back and forth and spraying PB Blaster down on top of the piston. It will move a little more each time.

The big problem is that if it's seized from rust? the Rings will likely be seized in the grooves in the piston. Only way to fix that is to tear the whole engine apart. Even then you will probably end up breaking atleast 1 of the rings while trying to get them freed up.

Have you ever rebuilt a small engine? I've had a bunch of those small HH30,HH40,HH50,HH60 and HH70 engines over the years. Truthfully they are not a good engine compared to other brands of similar size but I can walk you through rebuilding it if you need.

Never did like those engines because they rattle and shake the heck out of stuff especially if they are mounted without rubber idolators. My Custom 7 literally vibrated so bad at 3/4 throttle that the air cleaner kept falling off and the carb bolts kept backing out. I had to loctite them to keep them in. Engine ran fantastic other than a bit of smoke on startup from a worn valve guide. I put rings in it when I got it thinking that would clear up the smoking but it did not help much if any. Pretty sure it was rebuilt atleast once before because there was very little wear on the rings that I replaced.
 

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I agree with everyone here. PB blaster can work miracles. And I bet with enough you can un seize that engine.

I recommend contacting Peter Easterlund at tractor data. He really can find out information on rare tractors.

Although your model does look similar to this one I found on tractor data TractorData.com Craftsman 131.8450 tractor information

Best of luck, jcp
 

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I've had many with stuck valves keep them from spinning over. And don't let them tell you that Tecumseh didn't build good engines back then. The engines would run with the best of them.
My problems with Tecumseh didn't start til they started putting non-adjustable carburetors on them.
And I've put adjustable carbs onto more than a few and it makes a whole different animal out of them.
I don't know why I thought of such things back in my high school days but I did mow alot of grass then and most with mowers found at the curb on Fridays (garbage day) back then to mow the same yard with a 3-1/2 hp Briggs powered mower or a 3-1/2hp Tecumseh.... With the Briggs I rarely finished a given yard on 1 tank of gas. With the Tecumseh ones I'd finish on the same tankful as I started with and usually at least half of the next yard. And somehow a Tecumseh would power thru some thick heavy grass like nothing that would stall the Briggs.
 

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One thing I can say about briggs' design that I cave come to like better over the years better than Tecumseh, Kohler, and most others, is that it seems that the Briggs engines with the carb mounted on the gas tank instead of a separate tank, line and (usually) a float style carb is that with the Briggs having to draw gas upward before feeding it to the engine vs always being fed by gravity and having a bowl full of gas, is that the carbs seem easier to clean, and when varnished up usually just have to replace a couple of gaskets, maybe a diaphragm, maybe some suction tube(s) /where the ones fed by a fuel line between tank and carb, (like most Briggs over about 5hp, too along with the other brands) when resuscitating one that has sat for a long time with old gas in them, the carbs are harder to get clean in all the tiny passages that make a difference in having a good running engine (or not) and more likely to end up as junk and having to replace than the Briggs tank mounted ones.
Easy solution would be a shutoff in line that the operator would actually use and then run the carb dry in the other style but that shutoff would cost companies a penny or 3 and that cuts into profits. And average Joe homeowner wouldn't have a clue as to whether a machine even had a shutoff or what benefit it would have/ let alone the smarts to add a shutoff to a machine that didn't already have it. So when guys like us get our hands on them it gives us a mess on our hands
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well folks, I decided to keep adding PB blaster in the spark plug hole for a 2nd and final week. After this week if the PB doesn't work ATF will be going in for one month, then in middle to late January if that doesn't help the head will be coming off. I will keep everyone updated.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well folks,

I am going to be putting in the ATF tomorrow because I don't really think the PB blaster is working unless someone conveniences me otherwise. I spray the PB in the spark plug hole and it is a brown or dark yellow color, then the next day there is no color when I go to spray it again. I have sprayed it in the hole for 2 weeks now.

When I go to put the ATF in tomorrow, I also have some kerosene that I plan to add to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well folks, I put ATF and kerosene in the spark plug hole yesterday and when I go to check it this morning it is not in the spark plug hole anymore. My stepdad says that he seems to think it is leaking and going into the carburetor or elsewhere because of a stuck valve so I have to take the head off. At this point I'm 90% sure the ATF isn't working either and I'm gonna have to take the head off like my stepdad says, I just wanted everyones opinions first and see what everyone else thinks it is before I do this.

Thanks in advance!
 

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You are headed in the right direction. You have to remove tin to remove the head so that gives you the chance to look for mouse nests. When you get the head off you can de-carbon the piston, head, and valves. While there you can check for corrosion obvious wear and debris in the cylinder. Also as stated above try to turn the valves to make sure they are free.
If you don't disassemble and just keep trying till you get it to move What ever was preventing movement is still in there it is just loose now. Rust and carbon can make an effective grinding compound when left in an engine. Taking it apart and cleaning it up is just the reasonable thing to do.
Don
 

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Those engines carbon up pretty bad and when they sit for a long period of time the carbon deposits tend to swell significantly. 1st thing I would have done is take the head off. The older metal type head gaskets are reusable if it's not blown out.

20-30 minute soak with undiluted Muriatic acid in the cylinder will free up pretty much any engine but if you don't quickly neutralize the acid it will ruin the piston and flash rust the cylinder. I unstuck my neighbors 1959 Chevy Impala that has a stuck 235 straight 6 in it. It sat in a barn for 40+ years. It was stuck really good. He tried ATF and PB Blaster and a couple of other things but nothing worked. After removing the head I wire wheeled the heck out of it and dumped Muriatic acid in on top of the pistons and after about 25 minutes I got it to move. Did have to put new rings in it because 1 of the rings broke but it cleaned up nice and it runs like a sewing machine. I hate to hear that familiar TINK sound of a ring breaking on a stuck engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well folks, I got some good and bad news.

The good news is the piston and valves move up and down. I put a 3/4 socket and ratchet on the flywheel and it turned. I did not check to see if the valves turn though.

The bad news is I took the head off and it has carbon on it along with the valves they got carbon on em too, so I sprayed some PB blaster on it for the time being until I scrape and/or wire wheel the carbon off or until I take the motor off the tractor. Right now it looks like the motor is gonna have to be rebuilt, unless someone thinks otherwise

When I originally bought the tractor my stepdad went with me and he checked the oil by pulling the dipstick to make sure it had oil in it, and it did but my stepdad says it was black as coal. I checked it today and the oil isn't black anymore
 
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