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Well the Princess Auto 11hp motor just piled up the balancer shaft and broke it in half. Cracked the bearing housings right out of the engine case. Anyway, back to PA for another motor and they have a 13HP with electric start on sale for 300.00. :bounce:Now I have the opportunity to place the motor in the correct location to have the proper slack in the drive belt.

I am looking for someone to measure the distance between the center of the variable speed shaft and the center of the engine shaft. With that measurement, I can drill new bolt holes to set the motor at the proper distance.
*Edit* Maybe DH1 or Tractor Tinkerer have some info, I looked at their posts on repowering, but I think the Vdrive would work better if the engine was the correct distance
Thanks
 

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I did 2 conversions both Hydra drive tractors and used the factory engine mount holes everything lined up.

Picture shows a 66MF10 Varidrive tractor measured from center of crank to outside edge of Varidrive control, 13" note my Varidrive control is tight no play in it, i checked my other MF12g and got the same measurement.
The front belt if it is too narrow will run on the bottom of the pulley instead of the sides and slip.

There is a fair amount of adjustment in the Varidrive unit, if you follow the procedure though in he owners manual, takes about 45 min. to do, it sets everything up right including clutch and parking brake.
My 66 works and drives nice.
 

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Thanks, Doug. I will go and measure the distance on mine. I just put the homemade additional tensioner on because using the factory engine mounting holes it was so loose the belt wouldn't engage.
edit. Just finished measuring and the distance is about 13 1/8 inches. The belt is the Massey one and is still running on the sides of the sheaves.
 

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In park there suppose to be loose mine is to. IMO your probably OK with 13 1/8, go through the adjustment without the homemade tensioner and see if it works out.
 

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hitempguy said:
Thanks, Doug. I will go and measure the distance on mine. I just put the homemade additional tensioner on because using the factory engine mounting holes it was so loose the belt wouldn't engage.
edit. Just finished measuring and the distance is about 13 1/8 inches. The belt is the Massey one and is still running on the sides of the sheaves.
13 1/8 should work.........if you are measuring the same way that Doug did.

Using a tensioner on that belt wont work I am sure...it will not allow the varidrive to work properly. It will want to keep it too tight all the time I believe
 

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Big Bill said:
I'll bet you don't have any better luck with this engine. Sorry, just my opinion.
My 67MF12Hydra that I converted is now converted back to it's HH120 engine that came with it when I got it.
Both engines do the same job but I like the original better in this tractor than the Honda clones. Just my preference.
 
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Yeah, I just don't know why you would go back for seconds for another Honda clone, 300 bucks, plus what you paid for the 11 hp, gets you either a honda or a rebuild on your good block. Anyway from consumer reports Honda is really hitting the skids in the reliability department. How many brands are using Honda anymore, not many. Kawasaki for imports is a very good engine, but the best engines out there today are the Kohler Command and the Briggs Vanguards. Rebuilt right your old engine should last a long time, it did the first time around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for everyones' input. I adjusted the Vari Drive and then removed the rear tire and inspected the trans drive sheave and tensioner for the idler. Found the tensioner link assembly bent and rusted solid. Cleaned and lubed everything, now it runs perfect.

Big Bill, I bought the tractor for 160.00, the 11HP clone was already in it when I got it. The original is no where to be found, so the clone was a good deal. Princess Auto here will give you virtually unlimited warrenty on these motors, as well, if you have the receipt . So far i have about 550.00 in to it, most of the belts were original, so those were replaced. If I could find a HH block I might consider going back once this one gets tired. I'm not sure about the reliability of these clones, maybe the start of another thread.....
Or continuing DH1s' Tecumseh VS China thread
 

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hitempguy said:
Thanks for everyones' input. I adjusted the Vari Drive and then removed the rear tire and inspected the trans drive sheave and tensioner for the idler. Found the tensioner link assembly bent and rusted solid. Cleaned and lubed everything, now it runs perfect.
Glad to here you got it fixed and running good, pictures.
 
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