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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A first post, I believe. I recently purchased a '69 MF10. Serial # 18549. (all my others are JD) I've changed all the fluids, air filter, spark plug, fuel line, tried to clean it up a bit, and now I've come to adjusting the variable speed/variator. I have a '66 JD110 that also has a variable/variator but this Massey is a bit different.

I was needing some assistance in adjustment. I tried adjusting by the service manual I have. I believe I have the correct belts, engine to variator is #515382 and variator to transmission is #515383.

Before I tried to do the variable speed adjustment, the brake/clutch would barely grab the brake drum and it had some 'lurching' starts after putting the tractor in gear. And, pushing down the brake/clutch pedal barely made it possible to change gears. It was easier to put the tractor in gear before you started it and then using the variable speed lever to start the travel.

During the attempted adjustment, I tried to go step by step by the service manual, but when the step came to put the variable speed lever in the lower speed, 1, and sometimes 2, it was as though I were putting it in park, P.

I counted the turns I had made on the adjustment screw under the dash, so I just back stepped and tried to put everything back like I had started with.

It seemed like every adjustment I made either made the brake/clutch pedal not disengage at all, (which it barely did before) or I couldn't get the variable speed lever to go to the lower speeds. It seemed the variator to transmission belt was too short.

I hope I made some sense. This bugger has me stumped.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I believe I may have answered part of my problem... I think my brake was way too tight. Once I removed the brake rod to try and adjust the variable speed, I had clutch/brake pedal travel. Enough to disengage the drive and change gears. At the beginning of this latest attempt, the idler pulley was above the frame with the speed lever in park.

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After this latest attempt of readjustment, the idler pulley now looks flush with the frame.

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Electric Tractors
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Adjusting the Vari-Drive is a little tricky I found but if you follow the manual step by step it works.
After I adjusted mine for the first time I went back and redid it start to finish in case I messed up somewhere, and after that it worked great, everything does what it's suppose to do.
 

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Tractorholic
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I think disconnecting the brake rod at the clutch pedal helps, I tried to do it without doing that and couldn't get it right. Also, the step with turning the nut however much extra it was supposed to be is COUNTER INTUITIVE! Where it calls for the extra turn(s) in the nut, make sure you turn in the correct direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. I'll give it another go at it this weekend, maybe. The little time I've been messing with it, I've come to appreciate a few small things it differs from on the JD's.
 

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Accumulator
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Burke,welcome to the forum.Glad to have you with us.
 

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Super Moderator
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Welcome, Burke! Changing brands can be a learning experience. Lots of good Massey folks here to help as needed. Hope you get it all sorted out!
 

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Elf guardian
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Welcome to GTT.
Sounds like you're getting close.

Those look like new belts.
Have you put the shims back into the final pulley?
 

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Collector of Rusty Junk
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I will have to play with the adjustment on mine as well. I need to buy new belts before I play with it much. The dicerctions are hard to understand. I have to push my clutch down all the way to release it. I removed I think all but one shim in the back as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Welcome to GTT.
Sounds like you're getting close.

Those look like new belts.
Have you put the shims back into the final pulley?
You know, I never recognized the shims and where exactly they were until I read your post and went back and read the service manual again. But, there they are!

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I think I counted 4. I gather you put shims into the pulley to get the belt to ride lower in the pulley?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One thing to keep in mind is the belt guard at the engine. If that isn't there (or is missing parts) the clutch won't release properly.

The guard is also a guide to help the belt stay at the proper radius to slip on the engine pulley.
Thank you for that. I went back and put it back on...

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Collector of Rusty Junk
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I'm thinking about removing 2 of the bolts from the pulley and replacing them with studs. It would make it a bunch easier to line up everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm thinking about removing 2 of the bolts from the pulley and replacing them with studs. It would make it a bunch easier to line up everything.
That sounds like a pretty good idea. BTW, I've seen all your videos on the restore of your Massey, looks really good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Welcome to GTT.
Sounds like you're getting close.

Those look like new belts.
Have you put the shims back into the final pulley?
Thanks for that suggestion. I did that today. The belts are exactly 1 year old last month according to the previous owner. I put all but 1 back in...

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After going back a rereading the owners manual, the idler pulley is now lower. It's still about 3/4" above the frame but well below the top. After this little adjustment, it doesn't buck like a bronco when you let out the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I went ahead and replaced the fuel shut off valve. It was leaking quite a bit. And, while I was at it, I put an inline fuel filter in place, and a new positive battery cable to the solenoid.

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