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1968 MF 10; 1964 IH B-414
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all ,New guy here joining the forum from Saskatchewan Canada. I recently picked up a fixer upper massey 10. It's spent a lot of time sitting but after some carb cleaning/adjusting, oil change and a new battery, I've got it running really well but it's a work in progress. The Tecumseh has been swapped out for a 10hp Kohler which works well, but they cut a section of the grill out on the side to route a loose fitting muffler (going to eventually swap it out for a stack). Also they cut a large square out of the front of the grill for some reason. So I'm on the hunt for some body parts as I fix it up.

I am having troubles with the clutch though. I can put it in any gear (1-4 or R) no problem if it's off but if it's running it just clashes the gears. I've also noticed that changing the variable speed lever when in use makes no difference in the speed of the machine so I'm going to try adjusting it this weekend if the weather's good. Wondering if maybe the variable speed system being out of adjustment maybe is affecting the clutch not working properly?

Anyways here's a couple pics of the rig as it sits right now

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Tiller attached

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Mowing deck

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Super Moderator
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5,800 Posts
Welcome to the forum. There should be some Massey guys along to help you out. Have you checked the manual section? There should be one for this in there.
 

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Registered
1968 MF 10; 1964 IH B-414
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I downloaded the manual a couple minutes ago, going to give it a read tonight to see what I can find out in there.
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
Looks good, as for the clashing in the gears it looks like the crank is a little higher and more forward than the original.

I see the belt guard is cut near the engine, the front belt has to be loose when you push the clutch in so the trany can stop rotating so you can change gears.

Hope this helps.
 

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1,087 Posts
Nice tractor, it even has the optional narrow wheels on it. Nice save. Can't help you out with the Vari drive. The 2 I've had worked great.So I had no need to mess around with them. Good luck.
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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29,904 Posts
I would say that DH1 nailed it with the belt guards being part of the culprit. They and the engine position work together to allow the belt to slip at the engine pulley when the clutch is in. Any movement there will cause the gears to grind.

If you monkey with the vari, follow the instructions exactly. Seriously, the forums have lots of comments about struggling... until they read and followed the directions.

Also read up on the shims at the tranny.
 

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Registered
1968 MF 10; 1964 IH B-414
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, maybe I'll wait on the vari til I get the other issue figured out. Is there any adjustment in that system or am I looking at getting a slightly longer belt?
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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Thanks, maybe I'll wait on the vari til I get the other issue figured out. Is there any adjustment in that system or am I looking at getting a slightly longer belt?
You may be able to add shims to the rear pulley and gain a little.
Adjustment should've been at time of engine placement.
As for different belt, these are special. Odd angle. Only OEM or direct replacement work from all reports.

Push clutch all the way in and see what slack you have at the engine.
 

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Registered
1968 MF 10; 1964 IH B-414
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Clutch pressed the main belt is just loose enough I could turn it off the pulley if needed. Here's how much slack it has without clutch pressed with vari- lever in park.

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1968 MF 10; 1964 IH B-414
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And just out of curiosity I slipped the brake band off and have full working clutch. So I guess I need to adjust the brake to get more movement in the clutch?
 

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Electric Tractors
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5,639 Posts
You have enough slack for the belt to stop turning, the factor setup has a belt guide that goes around the crank pulley and acts like a brake to stop the belt when it is released.

Maybe you could make some guides to do the same thing. ???
 

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1968 MF 10; 1964 IH B-414
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63 Posts
I'll look around and see if I can find a picture of that to see if I can fab one. Mean time I disconnected the brake rod and drove it around the yard shifting perfectly, Clutch activated perfectly and all belts stopped turning right. Variable speeds even worked right. Looking at the operator's manual photo of the drive system it shows the pedal sitting at the back end of the loop on the end of the brake rod, on mine it will never go like that, the rod is always pulled tight to the tip.

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I did notice, for whatever reason, someone in the past cut down the adjustable end of the brake rod. Adjusted out all the way it's not enough to allow a full range of motion on the pedal. Perhaps a new brake rod adjusted out will take care of it?

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Rust Wrangler
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321 Posts
I'll look around and see if I can find a picture of that to see if I can fab one. Mean time I disconnected the brake rod and drove it around the yard shifting perfectly, Clutch activated perfectly and all belts stopped turning right. Variable speeds even worked right. Looking at the operator's manual photo of the drive system it shows the pedal sitting at the back end of the loop on the end of the brake rod, on mine it will never go like that, the rod is always pulled tight to the tip.

Untitled_1.png

I did notice, for whatever reason, someone in the past cut down the adjustable end of the brake rod. Adjusted out all the way it's not enough to allow a full range of motion on the pedal. Perhaps a new brake rod adjusted out will take care of it?

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A piece of all-thread and a coupler should take care of the broken brake rod. I have to change out the main drive belt on my MF10, been soaking the brake rod with Kroil for the last few days in preparation. Nice tractor you have there. :thumbs:
 
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