[dualresponse1731]

Hello,

I am new to the forums and wanted to post pics of my Ford lgt 145 which I have repowered with a briggs and stratton 23.5hp engine. Although I'm a kohler fan, I went with the B & S because it had similar dimensions and fit like a glove. I also restored a snowblower for it and am installing a second hydraulic port. Fun little project. I have tinkered with these since I was a kid. Since my wife understandably doesn't share my enthusiasm for the old tractor, I thought I'd share it here!

Here's a link to some more "before" pictures if posting links are allowed-

http://s27.photobucket.com/user/DUALRESPONSE1731/library/ford%20lgt%20145%20snowblower?sort=3&page=1

It's come a long ways and has a long ways to go. I have lurked here in the past and used this site for info, so I wanted to say "thanks" and hopefully inspire others to tinker with these things. There isn't as much repower information on Fords as some other brands, so I thought I'd share some of my pics as a data point. I will post more pics in the future if anyone wants them.

Have a good weekend!

Ron

 

[MiCarl]

Nice!

 

[dualresponse1731]

Thanks...Here's a short video of some snowblowing this winter. We don't get a lot of snow in the south, so please excuse my excitement in the video. One of the gas pedal springs is missing, so it likes to go forward by itself at about 1/4 mph. Perfect for videotaping. This was with the kohler k321 engine, with a blown head gasket (which I didn't know at the time. I can't wait until next year to try it out with the new repower!

http://s27.photobucket.com/user/DUALRESPONSE1731/library/ford%20lgt%20145%20snowblower?sort=3&page=1

 

[dualresponse1731]

whoops....

Let see if this works

 

[Dieselcubmike]

Hello and welcome :wave:

 

[dualresponse1731]

Here are a couple more pics of the repower. I was fortunate to have the later model lgt with motor mounts, not the welded oil pan of earlier open sided LGT's (no hate there to open sided lgt's- my dad has a bunch!)

This let me use the original motor mounts. All I had to do was open the holes a bit on the original engine supports (pictured in the first set of pics), to use the original engine supports.

This brought up several fitment issues I can think of at the moment-

1. There was no place to drain the oil, so I drilled out the case and made a drain out the front of the engine. The only other person I've seen do this cut the frame. The pro's on mine are that I didn't cut the frame, but the cons are that it doesn't drain 100% of the oil- but after studying the design of the oil pan, it never drained 100% anyway..

2. The oil filter/cooler didn't fit. Again- the other only repower I saw cut the frame to make it all fit. I went with an external oil filter, and raised the oil cooler on the shrouding to make it fit. I back filled the original cooling holes, and drilled new ones higher so the fan blows just as much air through the new mounting

3: The front PTO didn't line up due to the engine castings- simple- take a grinder and remove the castings

4. The rear drive shaft was too short. I went to ebay, got an extra driveshaft coupler for next to nothing, and welded two couplers together to extend the shaft drive. The rear stub shaft was also 1 inch. The Ford driveshaft coupler is 1 1/8, so I shimmed it. Not only did it make everything the right size, it kept the two coupler pieces aligned during welding.

5:Electrical-the kohler is coil ignition. The Briggs is magneto. Get a new ignition switch for briggs and rewire it. The old LGT is 40 years old anyway and can use a refresh!

6. Internal engine shrouding- On closed sided models, shrouding is EVERYTHING. Two can exhausts fit into the original shrouding. I still need to fill in the gaps. To keep all the hot air going out the front, but it gets 80% of it all as is. Looks a little lopeyed.. oh well... A summer project to come!

 

[dualresponse1731]

So here are a couple more pics of the repower-

1- of the extended rear drive shaft.

2- of the how the cooling holes needed to be raised on the engine shrouding/ the lower ones hot blocked with a simple piece of aluminium

3- of how well everything fits together.

(ps- I went with a BS engine over a kohler command pro because when I measured the fore-aft dimensions, the BS matched the original k series almoest perfectly- that doesn't mean a newer kohler does not, but when I used the spec measuements, the newer kohlers would fit- but by their measurements, would move the front pto forward be several inches- making front pto pulley alignment challenging. Perhaps it is no big deal and works fine. I whimped out and went BS!)

Cheers!

Ron

 

[dualresponse1731]

Ok... so a couple more pics and I'll call it a night. One of the front blade. Also one of the rear basket. I swear- that rear basket has been the MOST useful thing to date! Use it every day. Google "carpod" Expensive- but it has the tall sides and can hold just about anything. I use it weekly to move the trash cans to the street, as well as move logs, carry equipment, etc. This weekend I am installing a second hydraulic port so I can control the front (middle) and rear independently. Got an extreee port off ebay, Thanks for letting me share!

R

 

[jd.rasentrac]

Welcome to GTt - interesting pics!!

 

[TomLGT195]

Welcome to GTTalk. Looks like you took the time to modify things correctly to make everything work seamlessly. Nice job!

 

[crittersf1]

:welcometogttalk:

 

[Titus]

Great photos and documentation. Welcome!

 

[Oldford]

Good job nice shop & tractor thanks for the video

 

[skyrydr2]

WOW!!! NICE JOB!!! You did pretty darn good! It would have definitely been easier with a Kohler vtwin but I too have made a Briggs work in the same LGT. The one in my avatar used to have a flat head Briggs twin in it. Boys that was a shoe horn special. Then I found a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel and boys this rig is a sweetheart!!
You' re going right to town for sure, mine has remotes front and rear, center, and has 3 point hitch rear, quick hitch up front and powersteering. It also has 2 independant hydraulic circuits, one for power steering and deck lift, the other is high pressure aux. Circuit that runs the remotes and 3 point hitch.

 

[dualresponse1731]

Thanks Keith,

Yours is one of the tractors I have been watching over the past couple of years- Especially the 3 cylinder diesel engine and the evolution of the 3 point rockershaft. Your fabrication skills rock. Waaayy out of my league!

I went with the B&S because it was on sale and at least when I measured it, the new Kohler twins were too long to fit without moving the pto way forward. Perhaps I was looking at a larger size in the 20hp+ and the 16 or 18 would fit. Perhaps I was off- but I whimped out and didn't want to take the chance. The 23.5 hp was overkill, but this is AMERICA! so bigger is better, right? The Eaton as I understand it is rated for about 20 hp, and my intention is really to be tapping power off the front PTO for the snowblower or running the mower deck, which would get the remaining hp back under 20 for the rear during use.

In my brain, I really really really want a 3 point hitch, but with the large engine I don't want to really use it with the overpowered engine and the eaton. Besides, I already have a 3 point class one on a bigger tractor, and most of the implements I have would probably be too big for the ford. I am really resisting buying an allis chalmers rockshaft (pic below)- I think it measures right, and having some lower bars made- but I really need to reel myself in a bit.

If anything, I am toying with getting a more dependable link between the PTO pulley and the snowblower drive pulley in the front. Even aligned- mine goes through belts pretty quickly. With the added power, it's gonna smoke em'. I was wondering if I could convert to a chain drive or something. Just dreaming...who knows...

Thanks again for your hydraulic feedback. I will be picking your brain in the future!

Ron

 

[skyrydr2]

NO WAY! Mine will stall the diesel ! If your going through belts you have an alignment issue or your tensioner is not correct, maybe belts too long ? I have mine correct and belts last for at least 2-3 seasons, both deck and snowblower, and the rear pto belt hasn't even wore the ink off it yet, going on 3rd season now.

 

[dualresponse1731]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm... That's good to know. My snowblower didn't have a tensioner, so I had to fabricate one from a spare mule pulley arm setup. I used a belt tensioner pulley from a car I used to own. The only guess-work was the spring- Mine might be too tight, or not strong enough. there is a good pic of it untensioned in post #6. I should post some more pics to compare to an original spring. I've never had problems with the mower deck belt, or with my dad's rear pto belt on his 125. Maybe it's just the tension. I've adjusted the alignment on it multiple ways trying to find a perfect alignment- and I think it's pretty close when it is. It is good to know the blower doesn't eat belts if done properly. I just assumed it was a weak spot!

edit- Also the lower pulley was slightly bent when I got it, and they seem impossible to get off, so straightened it on the axle and it seems pretty true. I will also have to look up what size belt I'm using. I have not idea what the factory size is.

Thanks again!

Ron

 

[skyrydr2]

I had fun with the tensioner on mine too , I only use the large pulley for the mower deck everything else uses the smaller one.

 

[dualresponse1731]

Whoops....I ordered the Allis chambers rockershaft... (or... we've secretly replaced the 2 point with a new 3 point necessity...) Lets see if this fits...

 

[dualresponse1731]

Also- Keith- I saw a pic of your belt twisted back onto your smaller pto drive. It had a lot of deflection. Okay- newbie question- was that a "before" pic, or does it actually work like that? Just curious....

Ron