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1979 PowerKing 1618
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I relatively recently decided to buy a new, very used tractor. Overall, it's in really good shape for a 1979 but I'm trying to tighten somethings up a bit, in a literal sense. Working to get all the bolts and pins needed.

I started checking the implements and attachments to see what works and what is needed. It came with a snow thrower, front loader, rear platform, sweeper, snow or grading blade, and 60" mowing deck (which I can hear the ground screaming already from where it's going to scalp, so that'll be a project to add more rollers).

Anyway, on the FEL, my hydraulic hoses are stringing everywhere. I re-did it so I have two hoses that go across the top of the hood or steering wheel area. I also added hydraulic quick connect couplers for when swapping attachments. What have you all done to keep those hoses tidy?

For the snow / grader blade, I'm trying to figure out exactly how to mount it. I see the horizontal bars go into the rests on the tractor, but there's a flat stock bar that goes over both ends of the horizontal bars (on both ends). I'm not doing that part correctly. I assume the mid-hydraulics lift or drop it? *It's just sitting under the loader while I worked on the hydraulics
 

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I relatively recently decided to buy a new, very used tractor. Overall, it's in really good shape for a 1979 but I'm trying to tighten somethings up a bit, in a literal sense. Working to get all the bolts and pins needed.

I started checking the implements and attachments to see what works and what is needed. It came with a snow thrower, front loader, rear platform, sweeper, snow or grading blade, and 60" mowing deck (which I can hear the ground screaming already from where it's going to scalp, so that'll be a project to add more rollers).

Anyway, on the FEL, my hydraulic hoses are stringing everywhere. I re-did it so I have two hoses that go across the top of the hood or steering wheel area. I also added hydraulic quick connect couplers for when swapping attachments. What have you all done to keep those hoses tidy?

For the snow / grader blade, I'm trying to figure out exactly how to mount it. I see the horizontal bars go into the rests on the tractor, but there's a flat stock bar that goes over both ends of the horizontal bars (on both ends). I'm not doing that part correctly. I assume the mid-hydraulics lift or drop it? *It's just sitting under the loader while I worked on the hydraulics
Hi congrats on getting a PK, the loader hose are run under the bellhousing on top of the tractor frame so they out of the way, as for the plow blade it mounts to the front quick mounts the 11" flat straps go on the 1" round stock mts inside the quick mts the aft sliding into the horizontal aft slots front lift straight up and is help up with the locking tabs (about 2") I find it about 100% easier to remove the blade when installing the tongue then install the blade and just drop the pivot bolt in I've never needed a nut on it
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Amber Bumper
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread
 

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Tractorholic
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Though I can’t say that the hose routing is in the factory position but my lift hoses came off the valve , into a T with the left cylinder hoses going under the frame
Wheel Tire Plant Vehicle Tractor

Wheel Tire Plant Vehicle Tractor

Plant Tire Wheel Tractor Vehicle
 

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Tractorholic
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If I remember, in the loader manual to use the tractor without the loader there where two quick couplers for the bucket dump cylinders so the hoses stayed with the loader arms and you were supposed to leave the lift cylinders in place and tie them up . I never removed the loader the time I owned it
 

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1979 PowerKing 1618
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If I remember, in the loader manual to use the tractor without the loader there where two quick couplers for the bucket dump cylinders so the hoses stayed with the loader arms and you were supposed to leave the lift cylinders in place and tie them up . I never removed the loader the time I owned it
That would make sense why 2 of the 4 had quick connects on them. I assumed the previous owner added them. I went ahead and added the other two facing the opposite direction so I don't get them backwards.

Thanks for the photos showing the routing. I guess I'd have to drive over them when connecting/disconnecting the loader, which I'm not keen on. I'm going to try to thread them under the bell housing but on top of the frame as previously mentioned. I've found a few photos as a reference.
 

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Tractorholic
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Im guessing you want to remove the complete loader frame not just the arms & bucket ?
 
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1979 PowerKing 1618
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Im guessing you want to remove the complete loader frame not just the arms & bucket ?
Yes, that's the goal. I had to do it tonight, but only out of necessity. Get your popcorn ready...

I was loading this new to me tractor and implements onto my brand new, 2 hour old 16' trailer and when I lifted the loader sky high to get a better weight balance for driving up the ramp, it blew a hydraulic hose on the loader, which I didn't realize at first because it was in the dark and snowing. I soaked the tractor, implements, new trailer, a jacket, sweat pants, shorts, underwear, sock, sock hat, and work boots in hydraulic fluid. Then I had to try to unhook the front loader and load it by hand before I could load the tractor; all while slipping in snow (still coming down) and hydraulic fluid. The driveway isn't awful but it's at the rental so they won't be happy. The street took a bath in it. I ruined so many clothes that I need to get it cleaned up before I try to move anything and ruin more.

What's the best way to clean up hydraulic fluid that's sprayed EVERYWHERE? Just a standard decreaser then hose off? More hydraulic questions to come as I examine the scene in daylight and try to eventually fix the loader.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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9,703 Posts
Makes a mess when a line blows but things shouldn't seize up for a few days. Could try a mix of dishwasher detergent (about an ounce of detergent to about a quart of water) and try washing the seat and other parts with a mixture soaked sponge to see if the detergent will lift and suspend the oil and then give the area a rinse off with water - just a suggestion. Just try it on a small section and see if it works at all. Most dish washing detergent is designed to lift oils and fats found in some foods. Could also get some hand cleaner without the pumice and work it into the seat material with a nylon brush, then let it sit for a few minutes and then give it a rinse with cold water. Use a small squirt bottle to rinse the area and then wipe with a cloth - takes longer than using a water hose but that will keep the water spray controlled so it doesn't go everywhere.
 

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1979 PowerKing 1618
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I took a glance at the FEL today and it appears the elbow coming off of the cylinder broke at the threads where it enters the bung for the cylinder. Looking at old photos, and the way it is laying in the garage, that elbow was facing up where other photos and the manual have them facing down. So at some point, it got rotated so the elbows where either out and up, rather than in and down. That's likely why it got stressed and broke. Probably even got stressed just from having the loader resting on the elbow during storage, transport, or while getting it on the tractor.

I hope this info helps someone else in the future! I did see they're 3/8" fittings, so I'm going to hit the hardware store to see what I can find. I've got projects for this thing!
 
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