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This thread continues from my other one. I now have the AC 716 and am ready to continue on. I will need lots of help so PLEASE comment! I have the 716 apart and looking at making the marriage to the Eaton/Peerless rear end!

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My biggest concern now is the drive line is going to be long! And I will probably need a u-joint. Where should I put it? Near the engine or near the transaxle? Also, where to find it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I guess I should clarify more! How do you get the engine crankshaft aligned properly to the rear end?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The flexplates are on each end of the driveshaft. See page 10 in here :http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/1805-allis-b112-simplicity-3012-owners-parts-list/

You should be able to adapt each end to the driveshaft you have with the existing flexplates and then adjust the length of the driveshaft with a welder. Good Luck, Rick
I have a 416 drive shaft, but it will be too short. Plus the Ford rear end used a 3 bolt rubber flex joint that the Fan is on so I don't want to loose the Fan. I don't have an adapter that will work. Plus, the adapters will not fit through the 2" hole the BGB bolted to!
 

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It should last forever! Were the holes round? It should just bolt on...
I had too much of an angle on the shaft. The top of the whit disk was touching the crankshaft plate and the bottom was out from the plate about 1/2 inch. It lasted a while but it finally gave up. This was on my Rub Goldberg drive system on the snapper 1650 that i put a lombardini on. It now has a stub shaft and belts instead of the RG chain drive I had. Runs much better and there is no noisy chain.

Pics of the "device" be found about halfway down this page.

http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/31815-snapper-1650-gets-a-diesel/page-2
 

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Kenny, the input shaft of the hydro...does it have a keyed shaft or spline shaft? If it's keyed, then you can get universal joints to fit it. Universal joints make it a snap as things don't have to be in direct alignment between engine & hydro. Also, MTD 990's mostly used universal joint drive shafts to Eaton, so you could get one of them & simply extend it's length. As far as a fan, you can do without one if you add an oil cooler to the lift return line. A cooler does way way more to cool than that fan could ever dream of doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Kenny, the input shaft of the hydro...does it have a keyed shaft or spline shaft? If it's keyed, then you can get universal joints to fit it. Universal joints make it a snap as things don't have to be in direct alignment between engine & hydro. Also, MTD 990's mostly used universal joint drive shafts to Eaton, so you could get one of them & simply extend it's length. As far as a fan, you can do without one if you add an oil cooler to the lift return line. A cooler does way way more to cool than that fan could ever dream of doing.
The shaft is keyed, Daniel! Finding that MTD shaft might be rather hard around here. I'll see if I can find it in a parts list so I'll know what to ask for. I may grab the Ford tiller drive shaft to see if it will fit through that hole where the BGB was hooked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The flexplates are on each end of the driveshaft. See page 10 in here :http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/1805-allis-b112-simplicity-3012-owners-parts-list/

You should be able to adapt each end to the driveshaft you have with the existing flexplates and then adjust the length of the driveshaft with a welder. Good Luck, Rick
I have a 416 drive shaft, but it will be too short. Plus the Ford rear end used a 3 bolt rubber flex joint that the Fan is on so I don't want to loose the Fan. I don't have an adapter that will work. Plus, the adapters will not fit through the 2" hole the BGB bolted to!
I may give this a shot. I'll see about getting the engine in and take the Ford drive shaft adapter off and put the Allis one on if I can get the Eaton close enough to the hole so the shaft sticks through there! Worth the try!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I looked into using the Allis drive shaft and that is a no go! First the adapter off the AC BGB is for a 7/8" shaft and the Eaton is 3/4". Plus the Eaton shaft is only 1.5" long and I have a 1/2" plate to go through. Tight fit right there. And the hole in that plate is only 2" in diameter! The Ford tiller u-joint will nit go through it.

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Here's the adapter from the BGB.

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And the front of the Eaton.

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I got the Magnum 18 out to see what I had there to work with. If you folks think it will work, I can bolt the AC drive shaft solid and cut off what I don't need to get to an MTD drive shaft. It is 3/4" OD, may have to drill through for a bolt to hold it on.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Found 2 drive shafts! But one is missing a u-joint! Anybody know what will replace it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I did some more today! I flipped the front section upside down and pulled the front axle. The drag link was seized on one end and not adjustable. After some heat and Acetone/ATF, it loosened up. The tie rod is non-adjustable, that is getting changed!

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I'll use the short one from these.

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Got the center lift shaft out as I do not plan for one.

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Here's the guide I made up to open the BGB hole to 3".

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Here's the ring I cut out of the hole. Lots of oil for the hole saw.

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The plate there is about 1/2" thick!

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The Ford tiller u-joint has plenty of room to go through.

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And for the banned guest following this, I will make this work and look decent! You haven't a clue how to build a tractor like this, so just go away!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looking great Kenny. Don't let anyone get you down on this project. If it looks too crazy to work.... It usually will lol. :thumbs:
Doing my best Casey! But, I wish Ray would check this out! I value his opinions!
 
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