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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Getting ready to run the positive electrical cable up from the battery.

A block of wood is placed along each side of the battery to keep it from moving sideways.

As you can see, the shallow trays under the seat are already coming in handy.

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The battery is set in place and the cables are attached to it. The negative cable is a little long so I bent it around some.

There is a piece of wood in front of the battery between it and the divider panel to keep the battery from sliding forward.

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The positive terminal is located under the seat so the only thing above it is the wood bottom of the seat.

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The positive cable runs forward on top of the angle iron frame that supports the floor.

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From there it has to go up to the starter solenoid up under the hood and I want to run it up inside something instead of having it left out in the open.

I'm going to use a piece of hard copper tube for that and here I'm bending one end a little.

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This is the finished tube.

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This tube bolts onto the axle housing.

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The positive cable goes into the bottom of the tube that has a plastic sleeve in it.

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The cable comes out of the top of the tube and is connected to the starter solenoid.

There is a plastic cap fit over the tube to keep water out of it.

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As you can see here, when the solenoid is energized, the starter/generator is engaged.

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Looking back over the photos .. I have decided that I'm going to make up another tube for the positive cable to go thru where it runs forward along the frame under the floor.
 

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I made up another tube for the positive cable to run thru under the floor.

It is painted before it is installed because it would be hard to get complete paint coverage thru the expanded metal of the floor.

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This tube is fastened in place with a clamp that is bolted to the floor.

A piece of gas line hose is pushed into the back end of the tube to insulate the positive cable from the rough edges of the expanded metal floor.

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Here is a view of the cable coming down from the battery and going into the tube.

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This tube extends the full length of the floor.

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The front edge of the tube is notched to fit under the edge of the angle iron.

It is forced into this space so the front of the tube will not move.

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I found a shorter negative cable and put that on also.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Making the mounting bracket for the throttle and choke out of 1/16 inch thick steel.

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It is formed to the shape that I want and test fitted on the transmission.

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I made mounting tabs for the side panel out of pieces of angle iron and welded them in place.

The two side panels are cut out.

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The one side panel is welded on and the other side panel bolts on.

Here is how it looks so far.

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I'm going to use this same switch and gauge panel that I had made up when I first got this running while I was still living up in Buckley, Michigan.

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This box is riveted to the flat arm that is sticking up on the one side.

Then the assembly is bolted onto the top of the transmission.

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The choke and throttle cables are installed and the side cover is fastened back on.

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Here is the finished control panel.

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The switch and amp gauge are mounted in a metal box that was made for storing 3x5 file cards.

It can be swung open to work on the electrics.

The two blue wires with the open connectors on them are from the light switch and they will be hooked up once I get the headlights mounted.

I drew up a wiring diagram and for the time being, I'm keeping it inside this box so it doesn't get lost.

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Super Moderator
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Good idea using that box, Ray. Looks great!
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Coming together nicely - using what is already made and marrying it to something new creates some very nice arrangements that provide function and eye candy.
 

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Mark J.
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It's really coming together nicely.

What I'm always amazed by is the speed by which you can fab things up. They don't look rushed or unplanned. It looks like it has always been that way. I'm sure some of that has to do with the tools that you have but I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that you're just good at what you do and that is fun to see and learn from.
 

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I have a safety item to work on today.

The seat doesn't have armrest on the sides so it would be possible for someone to slide off the end of the seat when I'm making a sharp turn.

I went down to the Restore at Habitat for Humanity and picked up this old walker for $5.00.

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The top portion is cut off and I cut four 18 inch long pieces of galvanized pipe.

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Each piece of galvanized pipe is going to be bent at 90 degrees so I mark where the center of the radius will be on each piece of pipe.

Then I use the hydraulic tube bender to form them and I measure how high the ram is pushing up on each of them so they will all have the same amount of bend.

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Then I flatten one end a little bit.

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I set four square head nuts along side the pipe so the flat steel bar will be pressed down on top of them to make a uniform thickness along the pipe.

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This gives me four pieces of pipe that all have the same bend and the same thickness along the flat side.

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Mounting holes are drilled into the flat side of two of these and they are bolted the underside of the seat base along the front edge.

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One end of the armrest are slid down onto each upright piece of pipe.

Then the other piece of pipe is slid up into the back tube of each armrest and they are bolted to the underside of the seat base.

The rear pipe mounts are fastened to the underside of the seat base at an a angle to help prevent the armrest from moving forward or backward as well as side to side.

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Here is how they look with the bottom seat in place. The front of the armrests sit out a little farther than the back of the armrest to make it a little easier to get in and out of the cart seat.

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The armrests are secured in place with two pop rivets holding each tube to the pipe.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
The engine now has new spark plug wires and a new coil wire going from the mag down to the the distributor cap.

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There is a black button on the side of the mag that you push to ground out the points and shut the engine off.

The starter switch that I'm using has a terminal that is grounded when the switch is turned off.

On the Wisconsin engines, you can connect a wire to the grounding button and run the wire to a remote switch to shut the engine off.

However, there is no way to connect a wire to the grounding button on this mag.

So .. I took the distributor cap off and cut a notch in the lower part of the distributor housing.

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The wire coming from the grounding terminal on the starter switch is run thru a piece of rubber hose.

The end of this rubber hose fits into the notch and the wire is connected to the condenser wire.

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There is a notch cut into the side of the rubber hose so when the distributor cap is put back on, it keeps the rubber hose held in place.

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Usually when I mount a starter/generator on an engine that didn't have one originally, I have to make a special belt guard for it.

I lucked out this time because I have a guard the will fit it.

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It already has several holes in the face and one mounting bracket on the top side.

The existing top mounting bracket is in the wrong place so I have to make new mounting brackets that will make use of the existing holes.

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The mounting holes in the new brackets have to be out far enough so they clear the fan cover that is directly behind the grille.

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The new mounting brackets are all made up.

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Threaded nuts are welded to the inside of the grille so the belt guard can be easily fastened on from the outside.

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Here is how it looks so far with the belt guard fastened in place.

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Super Moderator
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Looking great, Ray!
 
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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I need something to fit over the pulley shaft that is sticking out of the hole in the center of the belt guard and I found an old chrome cap for the oil fill tubes on the Chevy V-8 engines back in the 60's and 70's that is just the right size.

The cap is chucked up in the lathe and I cut the center out of it.

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I sand blasted the chrome so it has a finish that paint will stick to now.

Then I welded it to the front of the belt guard to cover the hole in the center of the screen.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Another safety issue to contend with. ...

I need to make fenders and panels to cover the inside of the wheels and tires so no one will get their clothing or shoes caught in them.

This is an old continental spare tire cover from the 50's and I'm going to use it to make the tire and wheel guards.

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First thing is to cut two pieces from the outer ring to the length that I want.

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Both of them are sand blasted and a mounting tab is welded to the back bottom edge on both of them.

This mounting tab is screwed down to the angle iron of the floor frame.

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I added extra length to the bottom under the mounting tab so the back edge of the fenders extend down below the floor.

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Now I'm ready to start in the inside guard panels.

The face plate of the continental cover has a groove formed around the outer edge and a strip of rubber is gripped into it.

I pulled the rubber strip out and I'm using a short piece of metal bar to hammer that formed edge out a little.

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Then I use a power roller to run around the the face plate and flatten that outer edge.

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Here is the finished flattened edge.

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Part of the front plate is cut to the size needed to fit the fender and holes are punched into it for pocket welding it to the edge of the fender.

The side guard is welded to the inner edge of the fender.

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The finished fender so far.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Test fitting the fender and taking measurements for the piece that I need to make to cover the original wheel hub.

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A strip of metal is cut to size. The edge is bent up along one side and holes are punched in along the other side for welding.

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Using the metal shrinker to curve it to fit the inside radius on the side panel of the fender.

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The curved piece is welded to the fender and set back in place.

The last piece that I need to make is a side piece to fit down to the axle housing.

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These two side pieces are marked out on a piece of 1/16 inch thick sheet metal.

A center hole is cut out between them where they will fit around the axle housing.

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The two panels are cut to size.

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The edges are smoothed down and the holes are drilled into it for welding.

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The side panel is welded to the inside flange on the fender.

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This completes the fabrication of the sheet metal part of the fender.

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It is put back in place so I can take the measurements to make the fender mounts.

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A Little Off Plumb
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Very nice work - a true craftsman at play.
 

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tinkerer
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With the back of the fender bolted down, I also want to bolt it down where the inside side panel comes down to the axle housing.

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So I went hunting for something that would work and I found these two, 2-1/2 inch conduit clamps.

I found the first on with the short lag screw at Lowe's but they only had the one clamp.

I found the other on with the long threaded rod at the third place that I went to.

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These clamps are made out of forged steel.

I cut one side off the round area and ground it down flat with that side.

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Then I cut the head off a pair of 1/2 inch bolts and tightened the threaded end in the vice to flatten the threads out a little.

Using a vice grip, I screwed them into the clamps so they are a very tight fit.

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The clamps are just the right size to fasten around the axle housing.

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I bent up a bracket from 1/8x3/4 inch flat steel and drilled several holes in it.

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This is fit up inside the fender and held in place with vice-grips.

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This bracket is then welded to the inside of the fender.

Instead of welding the second hole in the lower part of the bracket, I drilled this hole out thru the sheet metal of the fender and I'll explain why I did that later.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
The second vise on my welding bench has been turned around so I can make use of the anvil.

I brought over the " V " block from the press and got out some of my specialty hammers.

With these tools, I have started forming a strip of 1/8x3/4 inch flat steel.

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This will be the bracket that will fit up under the fender to give it more support..

.... Before you even ask ... the answer is No. The bracket isn't anywhere as close to the tire as it looks in the photo.

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With one bracket finished, I use it as a pattern to start shaping the other bracket.

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The bracket is welded to the inside of the fender.

The bottom of this bracket is fastened securely to the top of the bracket that I had made earlier.

A single pocket weld at this point between the two brackets might crack later on so the two brackets are bolted together at this point and the nut is welded to the bolt so it can't come undone.

The bottom bracket is also welded to the bolt on the clamp.

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The fender is primed.

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And mounted back in place.

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One last bracket to make up is this one.

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This bracket bolted in between the axle housing and the upper side of the fender.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
It is getting to look kind of funky now like something out of an old Jules Verne movie.

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Super Moderator
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A very nice conversation piece!
 

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Starting to cut the trailer bed in half.

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Checking the alignment of the cut to the supports for the backrest.

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I sanded down the bottom of the bed and found that the spot welds on the two support ribs were broken loose in a few places so I welded them back up.

The lower area of the left rib is dented in about 3/8 inch deep. ( the photo doesn't show it as well as I thought it would. )

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A 1x2 inch steel tube fit tightly inside of the rib so I hammered it down to push that dented area out.

I thought that I would do this to both ribs to get the dents out of them but I changed my mind after doing the first one.

The other dents in the ribs will be hidden with the ribs sitting on the back frame rails on the cart but this area will be sticking out beyond those frame rails.

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As you can see, it did a good job of flattening that area out.

I had thought that I could just clamp a vice-grip tightly on the end of the steel tube and hammer it back out of the rib.

All that did was just make the vice-grip slide off the tube so I ended up putting a small strip of weld on the end of the steel tube so the vice-grip had something to grip too.

That worked alright but it still took me about three times as long to get the steel tube back out as it did to hammer it in.

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I finished sanding down both sides of the outside of the bed.

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Then I primed the outside.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Cleaning up the inside of the trailer bed is next on the list.

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This " half " trailer bed will fit into my sand blasting cabinet but I couldn't use it to clean the outside because the metal was too close to be able to sand blast it.

With the bed turned around to do the inside the metal is now far enough away so I have room to operate the blasting gun.

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Once the sand blasting is finished, I took a piece of 1x1/2 inch steel tube and cut part of each end off to leave a flat tab on both ends.

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This steel tube is welded in place across the front end of the bed with the flat tabs sticking out to cover the cut off ends of the bed rails.

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I cut a panel out of the 1/16 inch sheet steel to fit across the front of the bed.

Here I'm ready to make the first bend in it.

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Making sure the first bend in the panel is correct.

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Then I make the second bend in the panel.

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This panel is welded in place to form the front of the bed that is shaped to fit the contour of the backrest supports.

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The rest of the bed is now primed.

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tinkerer
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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I made up a couple of mounting brackets out of angle iron with two threaded holes in each of them.

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These bolt to the brackets on the trailer bed where the trailer axle had been bolted on.

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The bed is put back up on the rear frame rails and these angle iron brackets are welded to the back seat frame and to the rear frame rails.

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Here is how the angle iron brackets look with the welding finished and the brackets primed.

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The bed is put back on and bolted down to the new brackets.

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Another shot of the overall side view.

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