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Separating the Kill switch from the Ignition switch is a very very very good idea on the old Tecumseh engines. All it takes is a bit of moisture or wear or even a bit of dirt inside of the switch to Kill the Solid State ignition coil on those old Tecumseh engines. Any current fed back through the Kill Wire will instantly kill those coils and they are very expensive to replace IF you can even find a good used one. Leave it hooked to the headlight switch or wire it to a toggle switch.

Most likely the previous owner had 1 go bad. Every running Tecumseh HH100-HH160 powered tractor that I own got the same treatment.

same with my wheel horse, except I don't know if the shut off works or not I just put switch to the coil and it worked until it got cold and snapped the switch finger off. guess the headlights are permanently switched on when engine is running
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Separating the Kill switch from the Ignition switch is a very very very good idea on the old Tecumseh engines. All it takes is a bit of moisture or wear or even a bit of dirt inside of the switch to Kill the Solid State ignition coil on those old Tecumseh engines. Any current fed back through the Kill Wire will instantly kill those coils and they are very expensive to replace IF you can even find a good used one. Leave it hooked to the headlight switch or wire it to a toggle switch.

Most likely the previous owner had 1 go bad. Every running Tecumseh HH100-HH160 powered tractor that I own got the same treatment.

The later ones with the Stator/alternator type charging systems had a bigger problem with the coil burning up because the Stator wires are wired into the same plug that the Stator wires are in down near the starter. If the 3 prong connector got any moisture or corrosion in it, it would cook the coil, If the switch had any wear or moisture or dirt in it it would kill the ignition coil.

Keep the Kill wire FAR FAR Away from Any power source and the Solid State ignition coil will most likely last for many many years. They have a large Capacitor, 1 small 3 legged Rectifier, trigger coil, a couple of diodes and a coil inside of them. There was a video on youtube years ago of someone rebuilding one of them but I can't find it. It's very hard to rebuild them because they are inside of an Aluminum body that is filled with Epoxy resin.
Really good information there thanks a lot. I must ask, why would it kill the coil if I wired it to the original part in the key switch? If I cleaned it well I just don’t see how it could kill the coil and send current back in an original switch. I did admittedly also see that there is an aftermarket non oem ignition switch installed, so that does help prove your point... Thanks Eric
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Gas Audio equipment Electronic device Fixture Circle
 
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Trust me, leave it on it's own switch if you want it to last. A good used Tecumseh solid state ignition module sells for $200+ and they are getting very hard to find. Don't take the chance of a $10-$20 ignition switch taking out a $200+ ignition module.

There are currently only 2 on ebay. 1 is clean and tested good for $250 and 1 very dirty and corroded one listed As-Is for $199.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Trust me, leave it on it's own switch if you want it to last. A good used Tecumseh solid state ignition module sells for $200+ and they are getting very hard to find. Don't take the chance of a $10-$20 ignition switch taking out a $200+ ignition module.

There are currently only 2 on ebay. 1 is clean and tested good for $250 and 1 very dirty and corroded one listed As-Is for $199.
Good idea. I’ll leave it on there. I think it’s stupid there’s no after market solid states.
 
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You can get all sorts of aftermarket parts for the Aluminum block Tecumseh engines but there are very little for the Cast Iron blocks.

They used 2 diferent carbs on those engines. Walbro LME or Tecumseh 631304B with Tecumseh part # 34061 Carb spacer/isolator. The aftermarket carbs that they sell for them aren't made for those engines specifically. They are made for other engines that use a similar carb. No one makes an aftermarket Walbro LME or Walbro LMH carb. All of the aftermarket ones are copies of a $100-$120 Tecumseh 631304B carb. You are lucky that yours had the Tecumseh carb on it with the spacer other wise you would have had to find one for it and swap out the governor linkage as well. A used Walbro LME carb for a HH100 or HH120 sells for $100-$150 on ebay.
 

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Nice Sears, I always wanted one of those! I honestly would get it running then just show it as is for a year and see what people think, but that is just my opinion. If you are gonna restore it though, I would suggest if you have one where you are checking Tractor Supply for paint. I think Kubota orange would look pretty good on it, but again just my opinion.

Best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Nice Sears, I always wanted one of those! I honestly would get it running then just show it as is for a year and see what people think, but that is just my opinion. If you are gonna restore it though, I would suggest if you have one where you are checking Tractor Supply for paint. I think Kubota orange would look pretty good on it, but again just my opinion.

Best of luck
Thanks for the reply! I personally think it looks good however I love restoring tractors so I would want to restore this one. I really like the gloss orange but I haven’t seen it used so I may just get some allis charlmers orange.
 
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