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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a couple of weeks ago I bought a mf 12 variable speed. I bought it for $200 bucks and it needed the carb cleaned and it had the mf sleeve hitch on when I bought it. So when I brought it home I cleaned the carb and I'm having trouble adjusting it. It's an lme carb and I looked in the book and it says 1 1/4 turn for the main pre set and the idle set but it's still not running right. Anyway during the Lebanon valley indoor tractor show I bought a set of new rubber for it. I bought the Carlisle tru-powers. I love those tires. And I also put a set of the factory mf wheel weights I had laying around.after I get it 100% I'm planning on being in pa plow day in April. I'm not gonna lie it's not pretty but I like how it's rusty it's shows history and character. Anyway hope you guys enjoy.
 

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Nice, I have one of those tractors. Nice tires too, but I was wondering what size they are. I have 23x8.50x12 on my tractor. Yours look bigger, but mine are Duro tires, not the same as yours. Maybe that's the reason they look different in size.

Noel
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice, I have one of those tractors. Nice tires too, but I was wondering what size they are. I have 23x8.50x12 on my tractor. Yours look bigger, but mine are Duro tires, not the same as yours. Maybe that's the reason they look different in size.
Noel
Mine are 23x8.50x12 to I think the picture makes them look bigger
 

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Gotta keep in mind those manuals suggest that carb settings to just make it run enough to adjust. You have to adjust and listen to get correct and even. Also at times between the idle and the Hi-spd you have to go back and forth between them and re-adjust many times till you find the best workable position. I like to remive the needles and blow cleaner and air thru the holes first if you can. Not a lot, just some to help clean out. Running carb cleaner in the gas for a few tanks is good idea too on bringing them back to life. At times you need to keep the idle mix just a little rich so when you crack throttle it doesn't cut-out or big lag in transition to higher speed. Set, listen, try. many times over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gotta keep in mind those manuals suggest that carb settings to just make it run enough to adjust. You have to adjust and listen to get correct and even. Also at times between the idle and the Hi-spd you have to go back and forth between them and re-adjust many times till you find the best workable position. I like to remive the needles and blow cleaner and air thru the holes first if you can. Not a lot, just some to help clean out. Running carb cleaner in the gas for a few tanks is good idea too on bringing them back to life. At times you need to keep the idle mix just a little rich so when you crack throttle it doesn't cut-out or big lag in transition to higher speed. Set, listen, try. many times over.
Ok thanks for the info appreciate it I didn't realize that.
 

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Hurts my neck to look at the pics and compare to my 1975 12G, but one thing I noticed is that mine doesn't have the shields from the footboards up to the rear fender. I've seen them before but always thought it was a hydro thing. Looks like a good score for the money!

DAC
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hurts my neck to look at the pics and compare to my 1975 12G, but one thing I noticed is that mine doesn't have the shields from the footboards up to the rear fender. I've seen them before but always thought it was a hydro thing. Looks like a good score for the money!

DAC
As soon as I seen that for $200 I knew I had to buy it
 
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