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New to the hobby, like to rebuild the engine this winter

3K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Gazoo 
#1 ·
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I recently bought a Ford 100 from a friend of mine. His father had restored it years ago (I don't know how many) and it was sitting in a barn unused (don't know how long). I mentioned that I wanted to get some old jalopy tractor to haul around some landscape implements because I moved into a new house with more land. So, he said "I've got a deal for you".

I brought it home and had to go through the fuel system to make it run. Tore down and cleaned the carb. Now it runs OK but doesn't seem to have much power. I know that it is only a 10HP K241 but is struggles to make it up an incline.

This winter I would like to rebuild the engine. I have worked on machines for a number of years so I get most of it but I have never overhauled a small engine before. My question is: What special tools (over and above general wrenches and screwdrivers) do you think I need?

Micrometer

Piston ring compressor

Flywheel puller

Bore tee-measurer-thingy

Valve seat spinny tool cutter

A number of other tolls I don't know the name of

It sounds like a big investment for one small engine overhaul. I would like to do all of the work, mostly for the experience. I would appreciate any advice you can give me.

Oh, and I wanted to show off my new toy too. I can't take any credit for it's condition. That honor goes to a man I highly respect but sadly has passed on. Thank you for any input you can give.

-Gazoo
 

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#2 ·
Before rebuilding it, does it smoke under power? If so, how much. You may have stuck rings from it sitting. I'd put an ounce of MMO into the oil and gas and run it for a while! That may loosen the rings and get it back into usable condition.
 
#4 ·
I agree with Kenny, If you are considering a rebuild a little more running before tear down can't hurt much. I have had K series engines worn to the point you couldn't breath within 5 feet but still had good power. Just couldn't keep oil in them. Pulling the head to de carbon it will give you a chance to inspect and evaluate the condition of the valves and cylinder.

Don
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
That is a good tractor and a great engine. Run it for a while with Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in the gas(1 tbsp per gallon). What KennyP suggests is a good start too. First thing is to do an oil change and a tuneup including clean the air cleaner. Check the points gap and ignition timing carefully. Go to our Manuals Section and download the Kohler K series engine manual(its free). Use the Trouble Shooting Section to figure out what is wrong.

I've been using MMO since 1967 and it works well to decarbon the combustion chamber and rings which can bring the compression up and reduce oil burning. It also protects the fuel system from corrosion. That GT with the 10 hp running right should pull real strong.

It is expensive to rebuild one of those engines. The factory stock parts are getting precious and some aftermarket parts are questionable. Kohler specs are to the 0.0001" standard so you may have to get some new mics like I did. After tuning and running do a compression check to see where the engine is for condition. If it is low, the first step will be taking the head off. Let us know how you do on this GT. We are here to help. Good Luck, Rick
 
#6 ·
Well if it had a hydro i would recommend checking that, But it dosent. Before you check the engine, Is everything between the engine and the rear wheels OK? If so see if it has good compression, Does it start easy? try to troubleshoot a bit. I agree with boy scout and kenny. Its a great engine and usually last for a long time, does it slow down the engine, smoke, or nearly stall when it "losses power". Or does it just not get up the hill? Cause it could be a slipping belt if it just slows down.. Good luck. Jcp.
 
#7 ·
:welcometogttalk:

If you decide that the engine needs to be rebuilt. I recommend that you disassemble the engine first. Measure the cylinder bore and the crank diameter where the rod is connected. If either of these is out of tolerance then find a machine shop & ask them how far they will have to machine your cylinder or crank. After they give you this information then you will know what parts to order. Example .020 over piston or .010 under rod.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well if it had a hydro i would recommend checking that, But it dosent.
Actually yes it is a Hydro and I'm thinking that is most likely the problem. You can see the Hydro leaver sticking up and the Hydro relief valve knob just behind it in his picture.

Someone probably took a 120 or 140 and put the 100 engine and hood on it by the looks of his tractor. The 100 was a gear drive and the 120 and 140 were Hydro. Some early 120s were gear drive as well.

The cast iron pulley on the reversing gear box that bolts to the left side of the 4 speed Peerless 2300 transaxle is known for cracking and falling apart and they are darn near impossible to find.

Couple pics of the offending pulley. It's offset from the hub by about 4 or 5 inches and the small round reversing gear box is up under the pulley. {the small round gearbox reverses the shaft rotation because a peerless 2300 is normally driven off of the Primary Input shaft (on the other side of the transaxle) and not the secondary shaft which normally would have the brake drum on it.}

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When that pulley cracked and fell apart on my 100 I bought a 120 with a blown engine and put the good 10hp in it and put the rest of the 100 in storage with hops of finding another pulley. I searched for 1 for over 2 years and gave up and scrapped what was left of the 100. I sold the 120 shortly after because I got a good deal on something a bit more capable and easy to find parts for and didn't use the Ford that much.
 

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#9 ·
Actually yes it is a Hydro and I'm thinking that is most likely the problem. You can see the Hydro leaver sticking up and the Hydro relief valve knob just behind it in his picture.

Someone probably took a 120 or 140 and put the 100 engine and hood on it by the looks of his tractor. The 100 was a gear drive and the 120 and 140 were Hydro. Some early 120s were gear drive as well.

The cast iron pulley on the reversing gear box that bolts to the left side of the 4 speed Peerless 2300 transaxle is known for cracking and falling apart and they are darn near impossible to find.

Couple pics of the offending pulley. It's offset from the hub by about 4 or 5 inches and the small round reversing gear box is up under the pulley. {the small round gearbox reverses the shaft rotation because a peerless 2300 is normally driven off of the Primary Input shaft (on the other side of the transaxle) and not the secondary shaft which normally would have the brake drum on it.}

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When that pulley cracked and fell apart on my 100 I bought a 120 with a blown engine and put the good 10hp in it and put the rest of the 100 in storage with hops of finding another pulley. I searched for 1 for over 2 years and gave up and scrapped what was left of the 100. I sold the 120 shortly after because I got a good deal on something a bit more capable and easy to find parts for and didn't use the Ford that much.
Good eye! I never saw that!
 
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#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Those hydros are a bit strange because they are basically a regular Peerless 2300 that is permanently locked in 3rd or 4th gear and is driven by a separate hydro pump and drive motor which bolts to the input shaft. The bottom of the transmission takes gear oil and the hydro which has it's own separate reservoir (big rectangular shaped aluminum box up under the seat/fender pan) calls for Type A automatic transmission fluid.

The manual relief valve on these often gets stuck (rusted in place) which will make the tractor move very very slowly even at full throttle if it even moves at all.

@Gazoo Try to turn the knob just behind the hydro leaver. Clockwise is the Drive position and Counter-clockwise is the Freewheel position. If it does not turn you will need to take the knob off,drive the roll pin out and loosen the nut on the bottom of the shaft as far as you can get it. Then clamp a pair of vice grips on the shaft and turn it back and forth until you are able to remove the shaft. The O rings on the valve should survive but if they do not they can easily be replaced.You just need to take it apart and take a wire wheel to it once you have it apart then re-assemble it and it should be good to go.

The rear plate/cover or the front seal on the reservoir may be leaking and you might be low on fluid if if does not move after fixing your relief valve. You will need to remove the fender/seat pan and take the cover off and reseal the cover with something like Permatex Ultra Grey. Be Careful that you do not snap or strip the bolts on the cover. They are small bolts threaded into Aluminum. Let it sit and cure for 24 hours before filling with fluid. After your gasket maker fully cures you can remove the fill plug on the cover and fill it with Type A ATF until it starts coming out of the hole and replace the plug.

It is important that you get all of the air out of the drive motor and pump. Jack the rear of the tractor up and start the tractor and slowly push the hydro leaver back and forth a couple dozen times to work the air bubbles out of the pump and drive motor. Then shut the tractor off and let it sit and cool down for a couple of hours then recheck your fluid level. Once that's done you can reassemble the tractor.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all of the feedback. I really appreciate it.

The engine does not smoke at all. Just some black smoke after cleaning the carb but I leaned it out and it stopped smoking. I did replace the air filter when cleaning out the fuel system. It starts really easy with a little choke and no throttle (idle). After about 30 seconds, it will idle without any choke. The hydro disengage knob moves freely and does work OK. I don't know if it burns oil as I have not ran it that long but it surely leaks it all over the garage floor.

I have not adjusted the points yet. I will do that. I don't have a timing light so I may have to get one.

Honestly, I have never heard of MMO. Probably strange for you guys to hear. I will definitely get some and give it a go.

I will inspect the hydro reservoir and probably change out the fluid anyway. Not sure if it goes bad.

I will adjust the belt tension for the drive. I did not see any glazing or cracking on the belt.

I don't really know how to adjust the governor. I have the engine manual and am sure that there is an instruction.

I will also pull the head and have a look. Throw a new plug in there as well.

I'll let you know where I find the lost power at.
 
#13 ·
If your going to rebuild i can't think of many more tools you would need and most of that isn't mandatory.Back when i started i rebuilt my first engine(tecumseh hh100) with just a socket set, varios wrenches, some rtv sealant, a torque wrench,valve spring compressor, and some feeler gauges.I put a new piston in, new connecting rod ,and new valves just with them few tools.
 
#14 ·
A hunk of air duct with a couple hose clamps worked great as a ring compressor for me for years..

Low power with no smoke.. Float level OK? Governor as others have said.. To see if it is the rings do a compression check or while the engine is idling pull the dipstick and see if there is a lot of pressure (air) coming out of the crankcase.. (bad/stuck rings will let compressed gas/air pass into the crank case) Where is the oil leaking from? Find out and repair..

If excessive pressure from ring blow-by pop the cylinder head off and check the cylinder walls for scoring or damage.. As the engine is a golden oldie I'd suspect that hte piston skirts are worn and the cylinder is ovaled perpendicular to the crankshaft.. Lots of parts available for these engines on line or if $$ is no object get in touch with Kohler to spend some cheddar..

Just a few random thoughts from an over-tired Tinker..

BTW- If you delve into this thing- As always--> :wewantpics:
 
#15 ·
Thanks for all of the feedback. I really appreciate it.

The engine does not smoke at all. Just some black smoke after cleaning the carb but I leaned it out and it stopped smoking. I did replace the air filter when cleaning out the fuel system. It starts really easy with a little choke and no throttle (idle). After about 30 seconds, it will idle without any choke. The hydro disengage knob moves freely and does work OK. I don't know if it burns oil as I have not ran it that long but it surely leaks it all over the garage floor.

I have not adjusted the points yet. I will do that. I don't have a timing light so I may have to get one.

Honestly, I have never heard of MMO. Probably strange for you guys to hear. I will definitely get some and give it a go.

I will inspect the hydro reservoir and probably change out the fluid anyway. Not sure if it goes bad.

I will adjust the belt tension for the drive. I did not see any glazing or cracking on the belt.

I don't really know how to adjust the governor. I have the engine manual and am sure that there is an instruction.

I will also pull the head and have a look. Throw a new plug in there as well.

I'll let you know where I find the lost power at.
Its this. get it at walmart or a auto store and follow the instructions. Good luck!!!
 

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#16 ·
And like what wnytractorpicker said, we want pics!
 
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#17 ·
Thanks for all of the feedback. I really appreciate it.

The engine does not smoke at all. Just some black smoke after cleaning the carb but I leaned it out and it stopped smoking. I did replace the air filter when cleaning out the fuel system. It starts really easy with a little choke and no throttle (idle). After about 30 seconds, it will idle without any choke. The hydro disengage knob moves freely and does work OK. I don't know if it burns oil as I have not ran it that long but it surely leaks it all over the garage floor.

I have not adjusted the points yet. I will do that. I don't have a timing light so I may have to get one.

Honestly, I have never heard of MMO. Probably strange for you guys to hear. I will definitely get some and give it a go.

I will inspect the hydro reservoir and probably change out the fluid anyway. Not sure if it goes bad.

I will adjust the belt tension for the drive. I did not see any glazing or cracking on the belt.

I don't really know how to adjust the governor. I have the engine manual and am sure that there is an instruction.

I will also pull the head and have a look. Throw a new plug in there as well.

I'll let you know where I find the lost power at.
No need to purchase a timing light. Static timing is the best way to go with a Kohler in my book. I have made hard to start engines into one pull wonders using this method. The link below will walk you through.

http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/static_timing.pdf
 
#18 ·
No need to purchase a timing light. Static timing is the best way to go with a Kohler in my book. I have made hard to start engines into one pull wonders using this method. The link below will walk you through.

http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/static_timing.pdf
Thanks. Looks easy to follow. I'll see if the timing is good.

I will say that it starts pretty easy. Full choke, it will fire after one or two revolutions. Then, it will idle at half choke for a minute and then at no choke. I put .5 oz. of MMO in the tank. I could not get it to idle with no choke though.

I got out the 42" core aerator and pulled it around the yard this weekend (weather was great). My yard is pretty flat with some slopes. It runs nice at half throttle until I get to a slope and then need to throttle up to get up the slope. I have not adjusted the governor yet.

My mistake was when I tried to go over the septic mound. I gave it WOT and pulled back on the hydro stick but it had a hard time getting over. I saw gray smoke come out of the hood (not exhaust) but it got over. Did not try that again. I think the smoke must have come from the crankcase breather.

After that it would not run at throttle, only at idle and barely at that. I had to shut it down. I think it got so hot that there was vapor lock or something. After letting it sit for about a half hour, it started right away and ran nicely.

I'm sure that the fuel pump needs to be rebuilt because there is some oil and maybe fuel leaking around it. I suspect that's why it would barely run at idle when it was hot.

And by the way, I am surely not complaining about any of this. The little tractor is so cool and it gives me something to tinker with. Sometimes, I start it up and let it idle and drink a beer just listening. Putt...putt...putt... My wife thinks I'm an idiot.
 
#19 ·
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Well, I never did rebuild the motor. It runs a lot better after using it for a while. It does have a few leaks that need to be fixed though.

Here is a pic of it actually doing work. Hauling dirt for fixing all of the skids and trenches caused by my zero turn.

-Gazoo
 

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