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Squeaky Wheel
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So I need another trailer, and I have decided I need to just buy new this time, as I am tired of rebuilding trailers I buy for 2/3 cost of new and put 500 into getting up to my operating standards. So I have been doing some Internet shopping after comparing what trailers I have to what I have needed each time I used them. So far I have found I need a 6'10" (82") by 16 feet trailer set up with around 6000-7000 GVWR. I want bumper pull, deck between fenders, and ability to side load. I prefer treated lumber decking over steel or mesh. Anyway, found two good brands with two good options each. However, I have leaned towards Gatormade over Big Tex. The two Gatormade trailers I am looking at are:

Manufactured by: Gator Made Inc.
Model: 6.10x16 Side & Rear Gate
Product ID: 2u616sg

Manufactured by: Gator Made Inc.
Model: Flatbed Car Hauler (slide in ramps)
Product ID: 2lb16sr

Any thoughts on these trailers?
 

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I said I work on them. I never said I fix them&#3
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2,426 Posts
I never had one but I have heard talk from folks who have that the trailers with the side ramp are really terrible to tow. Don't know why but that's the story I got. That said, the gate ramps are great but they do make a difference in towing. I can really tell the difference when I take mine off. That's a lot of trailer to tow full with that truck.
 

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Squeaky Wheel
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7,446 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My truck is rated at 6000 pound towing. I want 7000 GVWR trailer because I prefer trailer safety factors. I also will never load more that 3200 pounds on the trailer when towing with my truck. Trust me chieffan, I take towing seriously, i already have 5 trailers available that my truck can handle and not one fits all i want, and never am I ever "fully loaded".
 

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2,233 Posts
From what I have seen both Gator Made and Big Tex are both heavy well built trailers, I'm thinking about buying new also, but I am waiting until spring so I can pay my truck almost completely off, and because I am waiting until spring to try my road test again(don't let this fool you I do have a good knowledge of trailers and towing from living on a farm all my life and my father is a CDLA truck driver as well). When I bought my truck I bought it with the kind of hauling I do in mind, and yes I have a trailer in mind.
 

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Premium Member
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1,467 Posts
I'm not familiar with gater made.
But, I just acquired a big Tex.
It pulls real nice.
Electric brakes work great.
My dream trailer would be an aluminum featherweight.
They are pricey. But, lighter trailer means greater load capacity.
And, better gas mileage when your hauling.
Plus, they don't rust!

Joe
 

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Getting Out!
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8,219 Posts
By Me is a trailer manufacturer that would BUILD exactly the trailer you wanted, OR, modify there plans with your options. Tie downs, ramp types, fenders, hitches, about anything. And they seem heavier metal than most I've seen. Prices I don't know, but place is real big now and all new. I-69 Trailer Sales in Warren, IN. Google. You have such a place near you? I have a 12,000lb trailer I got because I wanted to haul bigger tractors. I only have 1/2 ton truck and at times wished I had bigger. I wanted a flat top over the wheels deck, but even smaller were plenty big rating for my truck, so passed on that. 7000lb is about the rating for car hauler type rigs and some are a little light for big tactors. I always thought those kind with tilt deck that only tilts the last 2/3rds of the deck would be cat's meow, as they say. No ramps needed if only doing one tractor say. They are a little lower then too. Mine has wood sides on front area, but they lift out of stake pockets when I want to load from side. I use folding ramps for that and GT's go up that way alot, easier than trying to turn them once on trailer. Also fit more on that way. Course the fenders block some access that way still. I also have the heavy rear ramps that fold up and they keep lots of things on and can tie to them when up. They have support when lowered then too. I did have to make the center ramp, matched the outers for tri-cycle type tractors. They are heavy and hard to lift as a set, but can do with help, or just go individual when by myself. They all hook together with a cross-pipe once up in tow position. They rattle a lot when using, have to get used to that.
 

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When I bought a new tandem axle trailer, 3 yrs ago, I looked at SureTrac and PJ. These were brands that were available to look at in the Indianapolis area.

I wanted a hinged end gate but after lifting the heavy duty ones and finding them uncomfortable to lift decided on the slide in ramps.

I ended up ordering a 20 ft PJ, 10k capacity, treated wood floor, except for the 2' beavertail. I wanted extra stake pockets with rub rails to be able to use the ramps to side load with. My trailer came from their Texas facility and has a welded in Mexico sticker on it if that makes anyone concerned.

I would buy it again.

Chuck
 

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Chuckphonepics101912a 004.jpgWhen I bought a new tandem axle trailer, 3 yrs ago, I looked at SureTrac and PJ. These were brands that were available to look at in the Indianapolis area.

I wanted a hinged end gate but after lifting the heavy duty ones and finding them uncomfortable to lift decided on the slide in ramps.

I ended up ordering a 20 ft PJ, 10k capacity, treated wood floor, except for the 2' beavertail. I wanted extra stake pockets with rub rails to be able to use the ramps to side load with. My trailer came from their Texas facility and has a welded in Mexico sticker on it if that makes anyone concerned.

I would buy it again.

Chuck
I like the jacks on the back to keep the trailer from raising the PU rear off the ground!
 

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I bought a 7' wide X 18' long tandem axle trailer earlier this year.

I was disappointed on several items on the trailer and like you, I had to spend money to make it right.

A few things to look for....

Make sure ALL lights are DOT approved, AND the right amount of lights for the trailer width/length.

Make sure the underneath of the trailer deck has been painted.

Make sure the bottom of the trailer frame is painted.

Make sure the brakes really work, and are on all 4 wheels!

Get rid of any wire connections that look like this:
s-l225.jpg
 

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My dream trailer would be an aluminum featherweight.
They are pricey. But, lighter trailer means greater load capacity.
And, better gas mileage when your hauling.
Plus, they don't rust!

Joe
I agree with parts of this statement. Aluminum trailers are pricey for sure. I own an Aluma flat and a Featherlite enclosed and know the issues. No rust is a positive thing. Better gas mileage when hauling is not accomplished with just a lighter trailer. Weight and wind drag are 2 big issues. Lowering the trailer as much as possible makes a difference here. Building trailers with aluminum is not just a simple matter of switching from steel to aluminum. Aluminum does not flex the same as steel and causes different issues. Fastening the needed steel parts to the aluminum parts creates another area of challenge. Then you need to understand the alloys of aluminum that are available and how to work with them and where to use them. Structural aluminum loses strength when heat is applied in the welding process so riveting is better. When it comes to aluminum it is all aluminum but it is not all the same. After almost 40 years of working on semi trailers I have learned a little about trailers and aluminum. Personally in these small trailers (tandem axle car hauler types) I would be looking for a well built steel trailer with torflex axles, built low to the ground with removable ramps. Any ramp that stands up on the rear sucks extra fuel. If I could swing it I would use electro-hydraulic brakes. I would want it coated with Corsol, no paint and surely now powder coating. I would want plenty of tie down points also. It would need a sealed wire harness also. Or buy a cheap trailer and get a new one every 2 years.

I can be emailed under service here

http://www.wilsontrailersales.com/index.php
 

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Aaron
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6,736 Posts
A friend of mine has big tex and PJ trailers. 5th wheels and bumpers. He loves them. He has several trailers for use towing equipment between his two farms

Another friend gas a gator made like you described but no side ramps. It has this slick spring assisted ramp lift too. I've towed this trailer a few thousand miles myself and I love it. Hauled tractors side by sides and ATVs with it. I tend to borrow this trailer a lot.
 

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I said I work on them. I never said I fix them&#3
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2,426 Posts
Jeff, no problem. I had my 1200 pound 5500 GVWR tilt trailer with a 3500 pound Farmall 140 on it coming back from Cincinatti Ohio, and never once was I lacking power to keep pace.
Yes, I remember our conversation about our trucks at plow day. While I have the somewhat gutless engine, you have the better, more powerful one. Mine does ok but a full trailer really bogs it down on big hills. I think the main reason for this is me to be honest. I don't like to push my equipment to the limit so I don't really get on it that much. You don't have many hills around you do you?????
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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Ours is an Appalachian trailer from Ohio.
There have been a couple small issues with it, but as a whole we've been very happy.
Issues, one zerk has been replaced twice and is frozen again. No clue why.
The wiring harness was decent enough wiring, but it is supported by running thru washers welded to the frame. Also, it had some crimp style splices.
The screws they used to hold down the decking were hard. So hard, they were brittle and some broke. I've heard they changed screws since.
 

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Squeaky Wheel
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7,446 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, I remember our conversation about our trucks at plow day. While I have the somewhat gutless engine, you have the better, more powerful one. Mine does ok but a full trailer really bogs it down on big hills. I think the main reason for this is me to be honest. I don't like to push my equipment to the limit so I don't really get on it that much. You don't have many hills around you do you?
Jeff, I dont think that your truck is gutless, but if you dont smash the pedal to the mat once in a while you will have carbon buildup that will rob power. Besides, the 4.6L Ford engines make their rated torque and HP around 4600 RPM. Additionally, If you pull the throttle body and clean the carbon out of it and change the air filter you will definitely feel some power increase. Im far from hard on my truck, but I do not waste time getting it up to speed getting on the four lane (no entrance ramps).
 

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Squeaky Wheel
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7,446 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Trust me guys, as an electrician I will not buy a trailer if I dont like the wiring. Dad and I have both rewired all of our trailers until the wiring was all sealed and protected, etc. I think we put about $150 in electrical components on each of our trailers rewiring them. But we hate repairing the wiring.

I like what I am seeing in PJ also. I need to find dealers for these trailers and crawl all over them. Leaning towards car hauler design more, as they have more tie down places.
 

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438 Posts
Hi Casey
You seen my PJ when you stopped over. It's 82"x 14'. I love the trailer but the powder coating is terrible. I bought it new at southern ohio trailer sales in 2013. I complained numerous times and for that I revieved two cans of spray touch up paint and 150.00 check from PJ. If the trailer has 1500 miles on it I would be surprised. It has the side load ramps that really make it nice for loading. I have never experienced any issues while hauling it. Probably wouldn't buy another though because of the powder coating

Mike
 
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