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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have my own massey ferguson project that I want to start soon ish.

So, I will be repainting the tractor, therefore I need to know roughly how much paint to buy. How much?

There are some rust holes in the body work etc... I'm thinking I will patch them up with auto body filler and paint over them. Will this be a good idea? Or should I patch it by placing a chunk of sheet metal under the rust hole and filling it with a weld?

I want to put duals on it too, just for fun. I know there are kits to do this, I would prefer the rim mount duals with a 11" pipe to space them out. Would the 23 8.50 12 duals look proportioned if I got 4.80-8 tires on the front? Or should I go with 6-12 duals?

I am selling the original motor, because I would prefer something that will be more reliable, long term. I don't want to have to fix something every third time I go to use the tractor... Is there any recommendations for a repower? I'm looking for something with a little more hp...

I also need a seat, any good suppliers?

I'm also going to make a home made sleeve hitch, using the tiller lift arms that are on the tractor. The button to lock the lift handle is seized in place, so I would like to get ideas on how to get the lock button working properly. The sleeve hitch will be a piece of pipe welded to the drawbar at the 90* bend, with a smaller diameter pipe inside, welded to a bracket just like any other sleeve hitch.

This overhaul isn't made to be pretty, just very functional.

I'll post pics once I start.
 

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So, I will be repainting the tractor, therefore I need to know roughly how much paint to buy. How much?
There are some rust holes in the body work etc... I'm thinking I will patch them up with auto body filler and paint over them. Will this be a good idea? Or should I patch it by placing a chunk of sheet metal under the rust hole and filling it with a weld?
Never, never just bondo over rust and holes. That's just wasting your time and energy. Sandblast everything then weld patch panels in place. Don't just stick a piece of metal underneath and weld on top. Take your time and make proper patch panels. It takes some time but doesn't cost anymore to do it right. If you just have a few holes, drill them out and get a local machine shop to burn you some blank circles in various diameters to plug weld into the holes. A unibit works well for this. Take your time. Tack the patches in, alternating between tacks to keep the heat and warpage to a minimum. Dress the welds, slick it up and shoot a good quality primer sealer before topcoating.
 

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Ok, I have my own massey ferguson project that I want to start soon ish.

So, I will be repainting the tractor, therefore I need to know roughly how much paint to buy. How much?

There are some rust holes in the body work etc... I'm thinking I will patch them up with auto body filler and paint over them. Will this be a good idea? Or should I patch it by placing a chunk of sheet metal under the rust hole and filling it with a weld?

I want to put duals on it too, just for fun. I know there are kits to do this, I would prefer the rim mount duals with a 11" pipe to space them out. Would the 23 8.50 12 duals look proportioned if I got 4.80-8 tires on the front? Or should I go with 6-12 duals?

I am selling the original motor, because I would prefer something that will be more reliable, long term. I don't want to have to fix something every third time I go to use the tractor... Is there any recommendations for a repower? I'm looking for something with a little more hp...

I also need a seat, any good suppliers?

I'm also going to make a home made sleeve hitch, using the tiller lift arms that are on the tractor. The button to lock the lift handle is seized in place, so I would like to get ideas on how to get the lock button working properly. The sleeve hitch will be a piece of pipe welded to the drawbar at the 90* bend, with a smaller diameter pipe inside, welded to a bracket just like any other sleeve hitch.

This overhaul isn't made to be pretty, just very functional.

I'll post pics once I start.
Here is a link to how I repaired my lever button on my MF12H

http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/24759-implement-button-repair-on-mf12-hydro/
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update:

I'm seriously rethinking selling the original motor...

How reliable is the original Tecumseh hh120 over the long haul? Are they very demanding? Are they any good on fuel? Do they have lots of power?
 

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The HH series cast iron Teckys are very reliable when tuned right.They start easy,make good power,are smoother than the other brands of cast iron engines (IMHO),and are easy on fuel. I have used them to mow with,a HH120 does great with a 42 inch deck. I have used a 48 inch deck with a HH120 and its doable but slower. But like all these different brands of cast iron engines on our vintage tractors they are older engines with plenty of hours on them so maintenance is very important. Keep the oil changed and checked,clean air filter,etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:

This afternoons plan is to drain the old gas out of the fuel lines and carb, then maybe take the carb off n try cleaning it.

Any suggestions on how to clean it???
 

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Power is good when in good condition.
If the rings are whooped, the rods weak, the valves are burnt... They can be pricey to fix. But they have more low end torque than any modern replacement.

The predator DH1 put in has served him well and been very easy on fuel by all reports.
My HH120 cylinder had too much taper and was scuffing pistons in the standard bore. Valves and guides seemed to be in great shape. I never found an affordable overbore piston. That's the main reason I went with the 13 HP Predator. It feels much more powerful and the fuel consumption is half of what the HH120 used.

DAC
 

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Update:

This afternoons plan is to drain the old gas out of the fuel lines and carb, then maybe take the carb off n try cleaning it.

Any suggestions on how to clean it???
Go buy a can of carb cleaner, disassemble and let it soak for a day or two. Blow it out real well with an air compressor before re-assembly.

DAC
 

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As others have said spend the time an try to get what you have working as good as it can, BEFORE you decide to repower it.

I had a MF10 with the HH120 engine in it, gear drive tractor just like your MF12g.

It had a good running engine in it, no smoke, no knock, and I always ran out of traction before power.

I had 2 sets of rear wheel weights, loaded 6x12 AG tires, front wheel weights and suitcase weights, never ran out of power, usually ran it about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for pulling a plow, 1/4 throttle pulling the cultivator.

The tractors I repowered where ether missing the engine or had a no good engine in them.

My engine of choice to repower a Massey MF10 or MF12 would be the good Tecumseh OH180.
 
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