Garden Tractor Forums banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can add an electric starter to that engine. Main challenge will be finding a flywheel that will work. I expect the vertical shaft version (common on older Snapper riders) uses the same flywheel. That old Briggs is probably superior to a Predator.
It is not the original Kohler motor on the tractor, it is a Briggs 195432-4035-01. Based on the parts manual I found for it there is no option for an electric start that I can find. I don't want to modify this motor, I would rather look at repowering with something modern that would allow for battery push start, maybe a circuit for headlights.
I am going to use it for the next couple weeks bringing in wood with a cart and see what I think. I can not find an assembly diagram of the mower deck, if anyone has one or a picture of a mounted mower deck I would greatly appreciate it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So it's running [and mobile]!
I'm going to change the oil this weekend and use it haul a trailer and stock up the wood pile by the house.
Did a little digging on the motor [Briggs 195432-4035-01] and it looks like it is possible to add an electric start. Would like to add a battery so I can do a key start but haven't gotten too deeply into it. Going to pull the motor next week or so and tear it down to see what sort of shape it's in. Certainly need to do something about the muffler as it is a motor mounted unit that is directly above [almost touching] the gas line to the carb.
I think I figured out how the mower deck goes together so I'll mess with that this weekend as well if time allows.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I removed the motor to tear it down and service it. It seems like a sound motor after searching up info on it so I am going to get it cleaned up and reinstalled for next year. I thought about going down the battery start rabbit hole but have decided that will be a project for another day. But, while disassembling the pull starter I found a rope start ring underneath.
Ordered a few parts so will continue the tear down over the next few days.
Noticed that it has a low fuel light, not sure how it works so going to look in to that, mostly not sure how/if its powered.
Cleaning out all the grime and mek on it will take some time. Not sure if it was originally red or if someone just sprayed it at some point.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive lighting Automotive exterior


Metalworking Engineering Gas Motor vehicle Auto part


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Automotive design


Automotive tire Kitchen appliance Automotive design Gas Auto part
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Found this on the web Briggs & Stratton 195432-4035-01 - Briggs & Stratton Horizontal Engine Alternator Chart, Elect Starter Parts Lookup with Diagrams | PartsTree , It is an electric start for your engine, some of the parts are listed as "unavailable" but at least it has some part numbers for them that gets you in the ballpark to do some searching for them. If that briggs is a 7 H.P. I/C engine , that is the same engine I have on my Troy Bilt horse tiller (might be where that engine came from since it is red) I know that there is an electric start option for that engine for my tiller .... Wish mine came with it at times , hope this can help you some.
Thanks, I appreciate it very much. How do you like the motor on the tiller, enough juice to do the job? In the manual I found for the motor it shows displacement at 19.44 cu. in. - 318.5 cc, not sure how that translates to HP.
In any case I'm going to tear it all the way down and then rebuild. It's actually not in that bad of shape, just very very dirty and grimy. I have some parts on the way which will motivate me to get the job done so I can fire it up while it's warm enough to do so.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I love that engine on my tiller ! I bought it brand new I think in 1994 straight from Troy Bilt when those tillers were built very well, now that MTD owns them they are not what they use to be. Yes the engine has the power to do the job and is still doing her job 28 years later . The engine you have like mine is an "I/C" engine meaning "Industrial / Commercial" and the bonus is it has a Cast Iron cylinder sleeve which makes it a little more durable which is what sold me on that model of horse tiller in 1994.
Thanks again. So the engine is an early 90s production. Glad to hear it's a solid unit, I was on the fence with rebuilding it but reading your post makes me feel even more optimistic. To be honest once I pulled off the recoil starter and saw the ring for a rope starter installed behind it I was pretty much sold. I love bringing old iron back to life [sometimes the more lost the cause the more I am motivated to fix it]. I also love having a project so I have an excuse to be in the workshop tinkering around and drinking beer.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I removed the screen cover and the recoil starter is like no other that I have encountered before. Here’s a couple pix:

Wheel Tire Crankset Automotive tire Gear


Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Automotive design


Question:
Do I need to remove the recoil starter part before pulling the flywheel? If so, how do I do that?
Or
Do I put a flywheel puller on the flywheel and pull everything off with the flywheel?
I haven’t done any research yet so I am sort of being lazy, but any input is appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That is the "classic" Briggs starter clutch. Here's a couple tips of how I work with them:

Briggs and Stratton sells a special tool to remove and install the clutch, since it doubles as the flywheel nut. However, here's what I do. First I dissassemble the clutch. Then I just take a socket extension and a hammer and place the big end of the extension on one of the parts that stick out around the edge of the clutch. Then I whack the extension with the hammer to loosen or tighten the nut. Kinda hard to describe. I reinstall the clutch casting to secure the flywheel before I assemble the clutch.

When reassembling the clutch, make sure you put plenty of oil on the skinny part at the front of the crankshaft or the clutch will squeal.

There should be six balls in the clutch. It's easier to put them back in if you lean the engine back.

After the clutch is removed I just whack the back of the flywheel with a hammer to remove. Works for me. Just don't whack the magnets.

By the way, why rebuild the engine? Does it burn oil?
Thanks for the insight Frankill, very much appreciated.

As far as why rebuild the engine, well there are a number of reasons:
  1. It is/was very dirty, caked in fact, it ran but with that sort of obvious abuse all parts are suspect until proven otherwise. Maybe it was rigged up so that it ran for a quick sale? [though I don't suspect that]. I prefer to give all equipment a very thorough going over post purchase. By tearing it down completely I can identify any questionable items.
  2. I am putting into regular service when it is complete [hauling/mowing] I want it to be 100% perfect before doing so. That way if something breaks, I know I broke it and can diagnose the issue from the start. [see inherited issues above]
  3. In for a penny, in for a pound. I needed to remove the engine to service the tractor body and clean it up. Being that it was off the machine and on the workbench it is easy to work on. I don't need it "right now" so there is also time to do so. If you're investing 2 hours, why not make it 10 and completely take it apart and rebuild? To me it just makes sense. I will also be able to familiarize myself with the motor so when [not if] it has issues in the field I will know what to look for from the start.
  4. I am just that type of person, I could show you before and after pix of a number of projects. I can't really explain, it's just hardwired. I like being in the workshop doing small projects. It allows my brain to shut everything out and focus on problem solving [sort of like people who do puzzles or make models] in the end I have a nice working machine.
  5. And finally a quote from George Mallory, "Because it was there."
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
While I’m waiting for motor parts and the day was nice I did some removals in the tractor. Fenders, motor mount plate, rusty toolbox, and seat back are all in the shop. Took one wheel off to maybe get in to the brakes but I’ll need a flywheel puller to get the drum off, oh well, next time, plenty of work ahead.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Plant Automotive tire


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Vehicle brake


Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It rained today so I messed around with the motor since it’s on the bench and near where I keep the beer. Undecided about colors, going to have to choose by next weekend so we’ll see what I end up with.
The posts behind the flywheel are not tapped so adding a power coil is out. Yes I could tap them but have decided that on this one I am going to keep it simple, no need for lights, etc. from what I have found this particular model did not have electric start or lights, I think.
Apologies if the pix are boring. I love rebuild threads and appreciate them if I am rebuilding the same motor (part, machine, etc).
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Wood Engineering


Automotive tire Saw Motor vehicle Asphalt Gas


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Engineering Machine tool


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Fender Bumper Gas
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Spent some time on the main pulley assembly (not sure if it’s called that) so I can mount it to the motor. Almost done, one more quick going over and I’ll clear coat it, put metallic black on the outside face and mount it up. Managed to remove both lock bolts with only a little hassle, took longer than anticipated to clean up.
The engine mounting plate (again, not sure what it’s called is in the works.
Automotive tire Gas Engineering Auto part Machine


The isolators that I removed from the engine mount will work but aren’t great. I can’t find them anywhere. I found similar ones for a John Deere but they’re too big (2.98”) I need roughly 2” even. I don’t want to redesign the assembly at this time and will clean up and remount the three I have if need be. Would rather swap them out if possible.
Automotive tire Wood Gas Auto part Household hardware
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Try McMaster-Carr for those isolators. I used these on a Ford:

I know they are 4 hole mount, but may work for your 2 hole application.
Thanks Kenny, I didn't think to look through McMaster. They mount under the plate to a flat surface so shape isn't an issue. I'll have to remeasure the ones I have as I am not sure the size of the rubber.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If you have access to a metal lathe you may be able to make your own mount using two (or more) hockey pucks. The pucks could be turned on a metal lathe to the correct sizes (thickness and OD) - a trick secret to machining rubber is to place the rubber in a freezer for several hours so it is frozen before machining it. Make the two halves so their total thickness plus the center plate is equal to the thickness of the center sleeve length. Bore or drill the pucks in the center for the inside metal sleeve and then assemble with the center plate sandwiched between the two pucks. The pucks can be glued together using contact cement if desired. Just a suggestion if you cannot find a replacement.
Thanks for the idea. Hopefully the ones I have aren't that bad [haven't really looked into them] if not I'll probably complete the rebuild, then take the motor off [in warmer weather] and play around with a new/different design.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top