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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just brought home another garage pet a Power King 2414 with hydraulics and tandem transmissions. New gas, oil, cleaned the points and carb and it runs great. The second transmission was full of water and although all the gears look great the bearings are noisy and the transmission needs a rebuild. Any company out there rebuilding or replacing I would be interested in an estimate. I also need a new shroud/tunnel in the future for reassembly. Attached are photos. Will be pulling the transmission this week and cleaning... cleaning... cleaning
 

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Just brought home another garage pet a Power King 2414 with hydraulics and tandem transmissions. New gas, oil, cleaned the points and carb and it runs great. The second transmission was full of water and although all the gears look great the bearings are noisy and the transmission needs a rebuild. Any company out there rebuilding or replacing I would be interested in an estimate. I also need a new shroud/tunnel in the future for reassembly. Attached are photos. Will be pulling the transmission this week and cleaning... cleaning... cleaning
The transmissions are pretty simple and easy to rebuild the biggest thing it the loose rollers in the main shaft/gear when dissembling watch so you don't loose any and they are special so the exact replacements are needed here's a couple of links ALSO be very careful when removing the clutch flywheel from the engine they breal very easy I attached a link on how to
Power King T92 3-Speed Transmission Rebuild Overhaul, Part 1 — General teardown of the T92 transmission for overhaul.

 

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Continuing to repair Power King learning a lot along the way. Pulled the engine and transmissions and found a broken transmission to differential tube, the second transmission was full of water and the front main shaft bearing was rusted,real noisy. Several hours of snap rings and cleaning and still trying to get the bearing race off that is seized to the drive gear. Got the hogs head off the engine and set screws out of the pressure plate pulley assembly, lubed with PB blaster and letting it sit. Found the clutch is damaged and will need a new one. Attached are photo's.. Any idea's or input appreciated. This is our winter project.... Hope we don't need a long winter.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Continuing to repair Power King learning a lot along the way. Pulled the engine and transmissions and found a broken transmission to differential tube, the second transmission was full of water and the front main shaft bearing was rusted,real noisy. Several hours of snap rings and cleaning and still trying to get the bearing race off that is seized to the drive gear. Got the hogs head off the engine and set screws out of the pressure plate pulley assembly, lubed with PB blaster and letting it sit. Found the clutch is damaged and will need a new one. Attached are photo's.. Any idea's or input appreciated. This is our winter project.... Hope we don't need a long winter.;)
Has anyone used a clutch relining service to repair the old clutch disc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have not for my PK's but have done it for other clutchs, its done all the time and since the spline hub looks to be in good shape that's what I'd do
I have not for my PK's but have done it for other clutchs, its done all the time and since the spline hub looks to be in good shape that's what I'd do
I found a re manufactured clutch with a core charge for my old one but am having trouble finding a throw out bearing only C-1697-C federal mogul . If anyone knows where to find them, looks like I will be replacing the clutch fingers too.
 

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I found a re manufactured clutch with a core charge for my old one but am having trouble finding a throw out bearing only C-1697-C federal mogul . If anyone knows where to find them, looks like I will be replacing the clutch fingers too.
I weld up the fingers and grind them down as needed finding the bearing is a hard one to find, there are 3 listings on ebay for used ones, Is your bearing bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I weld up the fingers and grind them down as needed finding the bearing is a hard one to find, there are 3 listings on ebay for used ones, Is your bearing bad?
The bearing was noisy before we pulled the tractor down. Squealing a bit and it looks like it was wearing on the clutch fingers. Sprayed it with PB Blaster and now it is quiet when spinning but would prefer to replace just the bearing if I can find one ,it's cheaper than the entire throw out.
 

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Check out this link and verify the sizes - Clutch Release Bearing Assembly - N1346 | SKF Vehicle Aftermarket
The N1346 shows available from Napa but they are not giving it away.

I think that you will find that this looks a little more reasonable - NATIONAL 1697C Clutch Release Bearing | RockAuto
I think you will find that the 614037 uses the same bearing but the collar is different - you could probably press the bearing off the collar and install it on yours if it is ok. Years ago the bearing face ran true on the fingers but the manufacturers changed to an elliptical design so that the bearing face that engages with the fingers runs in an orbital pattern rather that a true round pattern on the fingers so the bearing does not tend to wear the fingers as bad during engagement and disengagement. contact. The Napa number for the 614037 is N1086SA and it was used by Chevrolet so it is more common. Here is the sizes on it - SKF

If I remember correctly there is a short collar and a long collar that Chevrolet used in in the late 60's to mid 80's - the collars are different but the bearings may interchange and you may be able to press the bearing off a short collar unit and press it onto your collar. The short version of the Chev bearing is Napa # N1488. Years ago it was possible to purchase the bearing only when garages would take the time to press an old bearing off of the collar and install a new one but as labour rates increased that practice stopped so there was no demand for the bearing only so manufacturers stopped supplying it that way. As I say I am going off memory and may be wrong but if you can find an auto parts store close to you they may be willing to order in an equivalent to the N1488 so you can compare and measure it to see if the bearing will work on your collar. Hope this helps.
If the store cannot cross the part number tell them to look up a release bearing for a 1968 Chevelle .
 

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The bearing was noisy before we pulled the tractor down. Squealing a bit and it looks like it was wearing on the clutch fingers. Sprayed it with PB Blaster and now it is quiet when spinning but would prefer to replace just the bearing if I can find one ,it's cheaper than the entire throw out.
If the bearing was noisy odds are the noise will return and it is probably close to being worn out or full of debris.
Found an older bearing book this morning and the N1086SA that I mentioned in my last post was shown in it for a 1964 Chevrolet application and in that listing it showed the bearing only part number of N1085. Here is a link to the sizes for it - SKF .

If you check it out you can compare the sizes of the bearing only to verify whether it will fit your collar and if it does then you can go from there - as I stated in my last post I am going off memory as to whether the bearings will interchange and fit on your collar.
 

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The dimensions are different between the 2 bearings The C-1697-c measurements are ID= 1.190 bearing face = 2.495 thickness= 1.030
the N1086SA are ID = 1.385" bearing face = 2.510 thickness = 1.820
Ft Wayne clutch says they have new PK throw out bearings new cheap
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The dimensions are different between the 2 bearings The C-1697-c measurements are ID= 1.190 bearing face = 2.495 thickness= 1.030
the N1086SA are ID = 1.385" bearing face = 2.510 thickness = 1.820
Ft Wayne clutch says they have new PK throw out bearings new cheap
Thank you for all the help with the throw out bearing. I have found it out of stock most places but may wait for back orders from a couple suppliers. Continuing to clean and considering re assembly of one of the transmissions I was wondering what gasket material was being used for transmission and tube assembly? I was able to save the old ones for patterns. I think I found a supplier for the large rubber grommets in the tunnel cover and when they get here I will post if they are correct.
 

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Thank you for all the help with the throw out bearing. I have found it out of stock most places but may wait for back orders from a couple suppliers. Continuing to clean and considering re assembly of one of the transmissions I was wondering what gasket material was being used for transmission and tube assembly? I was able to save the old ones for patterns. I think I found a supplier for the large rubber grommets in the tunnel cover and when they get here I will post if they are correct.
I just use paper type gasket material like thin cereal box some guys just use RTV gasket maker
 

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My apologies for suggesting that the bearing might be the same - apparently my memory is not as good as it once was.
 
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