Question about electric PTO clutch for L120

Get the OEM JD part. It doesn't cost much more than the aftermarket ones. Aftermarket ones are $130-$145 OEM one is $198 on amazon. OEM parts are usually better quality than any of the aftermarket parts.

EricFromPa said:

Get the OEM JD part. It doesn't cost much more than the aftermarket ones. Aftermarket ones are $130-$145 OEM one is $198 on amazon. OEM parts are usually better quality than any of the aftermarket parts.

Amazon.com : John Deere Original Equipment Clutch #GY20878 : Lawn Mower Electric Clutches : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : John Deere Original Equipment Clutch #GY20878 : Lawn Mower Electric Clutches : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

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Ok, so the OEM will work with the bigger engine?

Rlayten said:

Ok, so the OEM will work with the bigger engine?

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Yes it will be fine. That is the same PTO that is used on the LA175 and it has a 26hp Briggs engine.

Awesome news! Thank you! I know I should probably get a new JD but with the prices not only for the machine but the attachments as well, rebuilding my current machine is just a lot cheaper.
Next comes the bushings for the front wheels, and the transmission! Watch this space...

Rlayten said:

Ok, so the OEM will work with the bigger engine?

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If the shaft size is the same. JD doesn't make clutches they buy them from Warner and marked them up.

Not sure if this will work or if I should make a new thread. Hopefully I'll get a response...

Ok, new engine, check. runs great! New clutch installed, no joy. It doesn't engage. I pull the switch and get a high pitched whine but the clutch doesn't engage. I checked a few of the other threads here and read about the battery, so I put in a brand new battery as the battery was getting old. Still nothing. What am I missing? The grass is tall enough that the chihuahua disappears in places. Ideas?

I would check two things. Check the pto switch to make sure that it's working. Power coming in and going out. Do you have power at the pto clutch?

I have a new PTO switch coming. However when I pull the switch I do get a high pitch whine. But the clutch doesn't engage. I tested the clutch with my lab power supply, the clutch engages with a click. The new switch will arrive the 30th.

Are you sure the deck is not jammed up, can the wine be the belt slipping?

I thought of that as well, I took the belt off the clutch and the deck moved freely, although I just now remembered that I need to grease the spindles after a winter of no use. I really don't know what the problem is, and it's getting quite frustrating! I checked to see if there was power going to the clutch and there is none. Hoping when the switch gets here that will fix the problem. I probably should just throw in the towel on this, but I can't afford a new machine and attachments.

Some PTOs have to be gapped using a feeler gauge, did you set the clearance?

I did not, there was nothing in the instructions about gapping anything.

Is the diode good?

Is the diode a black box that hangs next the fuse that has a high pitch whine when I pull the switch? If it is, what blades do I test? I'm sorry but I'm not a mechanic, I only play one because where I moved to, nobody will come pick it up, and with current prices I Cannot afford a truck.

Rlayten said:

Is the diode a black box that hangs next the fuse that has a high pitch whine when I pull the switch? If it is, what blades do I test? I'm sorry but I'm not a mechanic, I only play one because where I moved to, nobody will come pick it up, and with current prices I Cannot afford a truck.

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That is a safety interlock relay, that is what actually powers the PTO, not the dash switch. That relay may be bad, have you tested for 12v at the clutch? You do have to be in the seat you know

Rlayten said:

Is the diode a black box that hangs next the fuse that has a high pitch whine when I pull the switch? If it is, what blades do I test? I'm sorry but I'm not a mechanic, I only play one because where I moved to, nobody will come pick it up, and with current prices I Cannot afford a truck.

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Your system may not have one. Or it is part of the black box that powers the clutch as long as there is an ass in the seat.

Most of the safety's were disabled, including that one when I bough the machine used 3 years ago. The only safety that wasn't disabled was the brake has to be engaged before the motor starts. I don't think there is any power getting to the clutch because there is no click of the clutch engaging. The "original" clutch used to click when I pulled the switch with the ignition switch in the headlight position. I'm starting to wonder if the original clutch was bad after all. I'll check and see if there is 12 volts at the clutch and get back to you.

The safety switchs are all in the ground so determine if you have a good ground at the clutch. That buzzing can be a bad ground.

gr8tech1 said:

The safety switchs are all in the ground so determine if you have a good ground at the clutch. That buzzing can be a bad ground.

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I'll start checking the ground wires and see what happens.