[NUTNDUN]

Has anyone been successful at rebuilding a dual spool loader valve? The one with my Johnson Loader on my Massey 1655 needs some help. I have thought about swapping it for a single stick dual spool but it would be quicker to replace it with another two stick. I would love to be able to rebuild it but I have never had one apart and I don't know if it is something that I would be able to do. So I would like to know if any of you have rebuilt one before and if so do you have any tips?

 

[superaben]

They aren't hard, George, assuming what Johnson used is a normal hydraulic valve. Unless the spools and bores are worn, there aren't many things that can go wrong. You should be able to get either a seal kit from the valve manufacturer if indeed they still exist or pull it down and get the o rings matched.

Ben w.

 

[Texas Deere and Horse]

George, I bet it has bad O-rings and it is easy to rebuild. Take it apart and see how everything looks, then take the parts to a hydraulic shop and they will fix you up with the proper seals and O-rings. You can handle it no problem.

 

[NUTNDUN]

I wasn't sure if there would be a bunch of parts flying out if I pulled it apart. I need to get a pressure gauge too I guess. Thanks for the confirmation guys.

 

[KennyP]

Just be sure to document the rebuild here! :wewantpics: :tapping_fingers:

 

[NUTNDUN]

I don't know how soon I will get to it but I would like it functional for the snow if we happen to get hammered. Might try and work on it through the week or next weekend and I will definitely take some pics.

 

[glgrumpy]

Are they leaking or just weak pressure?? Sometimes bypass valves can get gunky and sticky and not seat, thusly letting pressure slip by and not working correct. That valve is usually under an acorn nut/cap and can come off easy. Have to watch for the spring and any little contact pieces that will want to come out when cap is realeased. O-rings or seals on it maybe too, but many times just a tapered pin that sets into a machined hole, all polished and smooth of course. If yours are leaking, then tear-down to new seals is needed. The idea of twin valves and a "Joystick" might be good if mounted out in air, not enclosed in a body. If you had to have rebuilt by someone else, bet new valves would cost about same as having shop do your old ones.

 

[NUTNDUN]

I got the valve removed from the loader and the piston removed from the spool for the main lift. That all looks to be in great shape. I did removed what I believe is the pressure relief valve. There was a spring and the little insert piece. There was a bolt in the end of it against the cap. I don't believe the bolt is correct though, almost like someone else was in there before. The valve was definitely worked on before, judging by the marks from tools used to tear it apart. I will get pictures of it here in the next day or two.

I think I might be steering towards just getting a new valve.

 

[glgrumpy]

That bolt is the item you turn to change the pressure you wish to release at. Usually a locknut or some resistance to keep in place. Only way to check pressure after adjust is put back together and use gauge in system, then tear all down again and re-adjust if not right. Spring strength also involved in this.

 

[NUTNDUN]

That bolt is the item you turn to change the pressure you wish to release at. Usually a locknut or some resistance to keep in place. Only way to check pressure after adjust is put back together and use gauge in system, then tear all down again and re-adjust if not right. Spring strength also involved in this.

I will definitely need to take some pics then. There isn't anything this bolt could thread into other than sitting inside the spring. There was a thin washer inside the cap the bolt head was resting against. I guess I could technically use a couple more washers to shim against it a little tighter.

 

[glgrumpy]

Is there NO hole in the inner works to screw that bolt into then?? Is there a brand on the valve? Might have to see if any manuals maybe on-line.

 

[NUTNDUN]

Here is a pic I took of the valve with my phone before removing it.

 

[KennyP]

Dang! I didn't need the glasses for that pic. That's one hugh pic, George!

 

[NUTNDUN]

Dang! I didn't need the glasses for that pic. That's one hugh pic, George!

Thanks for pointing that out Kenny. Explains why we found some other pics that were huge like that. I uploaded that with Tapatalk and somehow it is bypassing the server resizing them. I downloaded it and reuploaded it from the pc so it should be good now.

 

[Cvans]

I was told by a hydraulics place that those small control valves are not rebuildable. They rely on close tolerances and there are no o-rings involved. Didn't even take mine apart after hearing that, just bought a good take off from flea-bay. Hope they didn't jerk me around.

 

[Alc]

Does anyone know what those 2 straight slotted ( plugs ?) are for , located between the work ports on the top of the valve ?

 

[NUTNDUN]

Does anyone know what those 2 straight slotted ( plugs ?) are for , located between the work ports on the top of the valve ?

I did pull them out and they were just like the pressure release minus the bolt. They had a plunger and spring under each one.

 

[IamSherwood]

I did pull them out and they were just like the pressure release minus the bolt. They had a plunger and spring under each one.

Being they are on either side of the left spool, I think they are probably detents. Does that valve have

a float position that it stays in, when pushed forward?

As said, a lot of those valves don't have O-rings on the spools. I'm guessing that bolt in the pressure

relief valve is the culprit.

 

[NUTNDUN]

The valves are plain with no float or detent positions. It looks like there could be a couple of o-rings on the inside of the valve body but I can't tell for sure.

I could always try adding a couple of washers to the bolt on the pressure relief and see if it helps. The way the valve would act though seemed to be more in the valving and letting pressure past. The bucket tilt would lift the ass of the tractor off the ground but the main arm lift wouldn't budge anything over 50 lbs. Even empty if you moved the lever all the way sometimes it would lift and other times just sit there. Sometimes if the arms were already up in the air and you pulled the lever back to go higher it would actually go down.

 

[IamSherwood]

Get yourself a pressure gauge, and tee it into the down stroke side of your lift

cylinders. Could be the seals in the cylinders.