Garden Tractor Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Since the transmission in my 1053 is making a bit of noise when it is in High Range I decided to repair another three gear cluster with a damaged 15 tooth gear using a new gear and welding it on to the shaft. I am hoping to replace the three gear cluster with the welded gear shortly with this cluster to see if the transmission is any quieter with the new gear. A pdf of the information on how to do this is loaded in the manuals section - http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/4615-how-to-repair-the-15t-gear-in-a-bolens-6-speed-tubeframe-transmission/ . Thought I would do a post on it as it may be of interest to current and future Tubeframe owners with the 6 speed manual hi / lo range transmission.

Got the new gear and the damaged cluster as you can see in Pictures1 and 2. Removed the needle bearings and gave the cluster a good cleaning with the wire brush to make sure the other two gears will still in good shape. I believe this is the original cluster out of my 1053 and it has been sitting around for a while and had a bit of surface rust on the teeth but they cleaned up nice. Machine the tooth end of the gear so that it was the correct tooth width, formed a collar on the outer edge and cut a taper where it will be welded to the cluster shaft. Cut the cluster shaft to remove the damaged gear using a hack saw, faced the end of the shaft and formed a taper on the edge where it will be welded to the gear. Did a test fit of the gear and went to insert the shaft I had made up for the last one I did but found out the end of the cluster with the two large gears was .675" inside so the shaft would not fit in. Decided to chance pressing the new gear collar inside the cluster shaft and tacked the gear in four spots and checked it for run out - had about .002" which looked good so I welded the gear on to the shaft and let it cool. Set it back in the lathe and checked it for run out and with the two ends running true there is about .005" run out on the middle shaft which I think should work ok - things must have distorted a little bit from the heat of the welding. Turned the welded area down in the lathe and then used that area for the steady rest to run on while I machined the end of the gear to the correct length. Still have to turn the I.D. to the correct size in the gear and then machine the inside step for the needle bearing. I have also attached a very short video of the cluster running in the lathe after I welded the new gear on.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
894 Posts
I remember you welded the gear teeth on the 15 tooth gear when you did the repair on the 1053 transmission and you had to hand grind the teeth. It is hard to get the teeth exactly like the originals.

I remember you talking about this replacement gear, hopefully it work out well for you, thanks again for documenting the work for us I will be tearing into the Bolens 1000 and the 1050 at some point and I am sure that gear cluster is going to need repair on those transmissions.

My fathers lathe does not have that support with it, he has a Logan lathe they still have an active web site for their old lathes I will check with them to see if they have this support.

Thanks again Stew for this timely post

Stephen
 

· Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
My fathers lathe does not have that support with it, he has a Logan lathe they still have an active web site for their old lathes I will check with them to see if they have this support.

Thanks again Stew for this timely post

Stephen
You can broach a basic external gear like these on almost any lathe, mine is 114 years old and I can do it, it's just very, very, slow.


 

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My fathers lathe does not have that support with it, he has a Logan lathe they still have an active web site for their old lathes I will check with them to see if they have this support.
My fathers lathe did not have the steady rest support either - I priced it back in the early 1990's from Atlas but could not justify spending what they were wanting for the solid one they offered so I ended up making the one you see out of some 1/2" steel and a few pieces of 1/4" thick steel - if you look closely you can see it is homemade - I looked at pictures of the one for a 12" lathe and scaled it down. If you want more pictures of it let me know. I have attached a picture of the solid one that Atlas offered for the 6" lathe and a pdf of the 6" lathe as it was offered by Simpson Sears in 1962 / 63 ( the lathe was sold by Sears but manufactured by The Atlas Press Company).

You can broach a basic external gear like these on almost any lathe, mine is 114 years old and I can do it, it's just very, very, slow.
You are correct but it is a lot easier on a larger lathe - if you try and use the hand wheel to force the carriage to cut a spline or groove on a 6" Atlas lathe you will find that you don't have much power and you are straining the hand wheel gearing. I have cut an internal spline using the 6" to make a new coupler to go on the input shaft of the transmission on my one 1050 but made a lever and pivot set up to push the carriage.
 

Attachments

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Decided to check the run out on the middle gear by setting the dial gauge on the top of each tooth rather than on the shaft and got some better results - it appears to have a run out on the actual gear tooth of .0025". I also checked out the two end gears - the largest gear had a run out of .005" on the teeth and the new gear had a run out of .002" on the teeth. I bored out the inside of the new gear portion to the same size as the rest of the shaft which should allow the input shaft to pass through it. Then I bored the step at the end that holds the needle bearing and then I mounted the centre I have made to fit inside the shaft end and took one last cut on the weld to bring it down to the same size as the outside of the original shaft. This finished the machining so I washed out and blew out the cuttings and took some pictures of the finished cluster beside the one I removed from my first 1050 about two years ago. I replaced it with a cluster that I repaired with a new gear the same way as this and it has been working fine for the last two summers cutting grass. I still have to install new needle bearings and then I can install it in the 1053 when I get time.
 

Attachments

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Stew, If you can post a good picture of the steady rest I will probably get some metal from the welding shop and make my own, I know I will need to rebuild those gears in the 1000 and 1050.

Stephen
Will try and take some pictures for you tomorrow - what size is your Logan metal lathe just out of curiosity?
 

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice to have a Mill & Lathe at your disposal...
The lathe is handy but I wish sometimes it was larger. Don't have a mill but I did break down and purchase the milling attachment back in the late 1990's - if I remember correctly it was around $450.00 back then.
 

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
I forgot to add the two lubrication holes that I have seen in the later clusters - I believe the holes were added to aid in lubricating the needle bearings inside the cluster so I indexed and drilled two 3/16" diameter holes in the cluster shaft about 3/4" ahead of the middle gear. I believe they located the holes in this location so the gear lube slung from the idler gear that drives the forward gear on the output shaft for reverse in the bottom of the transmission would get directed at the holes ( the lower idler gear is turning whenever the cluster is turning). Cleaned up the cluster again and then I pressed in the two needle bearings - the ones I removed looked to be in good shape so I reused them. I remembered that I had an extra input shaft that I got with the 1053 so I cleaned up and polished the shaft and then tried the cluster with the needle bearings installed on the shaft to see how things looked. The cluster is a nice fit and appears to spin freely and true on the input shaft.
 

Attachments

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I thought I would post an update on a cluster gear I repaired using a new 15 tooth gear - it was installed in my first 1050 back in November of 2014 and now has 110 hours of use on it. I am posting this to show that while the gear appears to be standing up well for the most part it is not quite as hard as the original gears and as a result can become marked up and distorted if the gears that it meshes with are not checked closely and any distortion in the teeth on them not corrected. I have had the transmission cover off a couple of times and had a quick look at the new gear and things looked to be ok but the last few times I have used the tractor to cut grass I have had a problem getting it to shift out of first gear back to neutral. The shifter appeared to be binding in both high and low range when I tried to shift to neutral from first but shifting from neutral to first gear seemed to still shift smoothly which puzzled me so I decided to have a look to see what was causing the problem. I removed the transmission cover and found that the rear end of the teeth on the 15 tooth gear were distorted to the point where they were actually forming a bit of a "L" shape at the very rear of the teeth. This "L" formation was acting like a hook and preventing the first gear from sliding back smoothly. Pictures of what I found and how the 15 tooth gear looked after I cleaned the rear of the teeth up. I placed a piece of shop towel in each end of the bearings and then covered the ends and the oil holes with black electrical tape to keep debris out of the needle bearings while I filed and ground the rear of the teeth to get them back to the correct profile.
 

Attachments

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Cause and effect
I believe the problem was due a little bit to the fact that I left the teeth on the 15 tooth gear 1/32" longer than what they probably were originally so that there would be a bit more tooth material so that if the gears accidentally got ground during engagement it would take that much longer to wear the teeth off on the 15 tooth gear. In hind sight this may have been a mistake since leaving the teeth a little bit longer meant that the first gear teeth were actually not running on the very rear portion of the tooth. Add to this the fact that the tractor had been ran for many years with the original 15 tooth gear of the cluster worn away at the rear and as a result the rear part of the first gear was not worn quite as much as the front portion (this would be offset a bit by the wear that the teeth on the first gear would get when the tractor was in reverse and the teeth were fully engaged in the reverse idler. I believe the main problem was that I failed to clean up the teeth on the rear part of the first gear and as a result the burring that was there from the gear being ground going into reverse over the years put extra pressure on the rear part of the 15 tooth gear tooth causing that part of the gear to become worn and distorted as you can see in the pictures in the last post. I have posted pictures of what the gear teeth looked like when I replaced the cluster. As you can see the front gear on the Hi Lo cluster were in good shape but the rear part of the teeth of the first gear were not - something I failed to check closely enough. I have also attached a picture (#8) of the first and Hi Lo gears in the 1053 transmission that appear to still be in good shape for comparison.
 

Attachments

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I decided that I would try and repair the worn part at the rear of the first gear teeth by welding the teeth up with the mig welder and then shaping the weld using a 3" cut off blade mounted in a 3/8" electric drill. This allowed me to control the speed while I shaped the weld to match the teeth profile. The last few pictures show what the first gear teeth looked like after I shaped the weld. I put the gears back in and tried shifting the first reverse rail by hand and it seemed to go in and out of first and reverse smoothly so I put the tractor back together and backed it out of the shop. Put it in first and drove a few feet and tried to shift back into neutral and the shifter would not move. Tried a little harder and the shift lever moved to the neutral position but the transmission remained in first gear. Put it back in the shop and removed the cover again and found the shifter fork on the first reverse rail had broken (forgot to take pictures). I assume that the shifter fork had cracked from the hard shifting of the last few weeks - will have to see if I can weld it back together sometime. I removed the shift rail and replaced the fork with a good used spare I had and tried shifting with it and it worked ok so I put things back together and took the tractor for a test drive. This time it shifted smoothly in all gears and in both hi and lo range. Will have to pop the cover off again at the end of the season and see how things are looking.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
894 Posts
Stew, if that replacement gear was any harded you may would have had a hard time machining it down, its kind of a give a take thing. And some times we miss the obvious when it is sitting right in front of us. Good job on finding the problem and correcting it! :thumbs:
 

· A Little Off Plumb
Joined
·
9,747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Decided to try and repair the broken shifter fork today - you can see where the edge of the gear teeth appear to have made a mark in the fork. Originally the fork was only welded to the sleeve at the top so I just cleaned up the metal, Vee'd out where the two pieces joined and then welded the bottom part to the sleeve with the Mig welder. I clamped the two pieces to a piece of U channel and placed a sheet metal spacer under the fork to keep it at a right angle to the sleeve. Once things cooled I cleaned up the welds and set the fork aside in case I need it at some point in the future.
 

Attachments

1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top