Garden Tractor Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone found good led replacements. Headlights i found. More looking for taillights, curious if anyone found some that even use the same holes or at least will cover the holes. Dodge, I think you've done a rewire. What kind of wire did you use. To go to the rear, 2 for park switch, 2 for seat switch, 1 for pto and 1 for tail lights right? 6 wires total?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,687 Posts
For the lights I used regular old automotive 14 ga.
Every connection soldered and heat shrinked.
On the lights themselves I found some LEDs at a local "big truck" place ( think semi) for the back. I got my front from someplace online but then found some at Lowes of all places sold as "Landscape lights. Same exact bulb, 12v, same number on the back, and they were cheap. On clearance at the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey dodge, didn't you rewire the entire tractor? If so What all did you eliminate? Just seems like there's a ton of wires under there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,687 Posts
Pretty much anything that had yellow wires (factory color reference there) going to it. I ripped everything out and started from scratch. New switches, new wire, soldered, heat shrinked, and a redundant ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You mind posting some pics? How bout all the plugs and such under there that just seems overcontrolled?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,687 Posts
Yeah you got that right "over controlled" and over complicated. Other machine brands idiot proofing systems accomplish the same thing without printed circuit boards and such. Pic? Have to see about that but it is very basic. Can't say my wire colors will match stock though.
I used a new INDAK ignition switch like so many gt's had, a heavy duty (think semi truck) solenoid, and heavy duty switches (Again think semi truck) for lights and pto control.
I loosely based what I did off of a 72 new Holland S-14, idiot proofing wasn't as big of a deal back then as it had become by the later 70s and early 80s.
Like I had said step 1 was to rip everything that was in there out and toss into File 13. 2 of the 3 that I rewired like this had been doctored by past owners besides ariens own over complications.
Nothing doctored or butchered on mine, no scotchloks, no butt connectors. All crimped and soldered. I did use a new 5 way connector on the ignition switch, and found the correct female blade connectors that snap into the plastic 5 way connector on that ignition switch. I think they are called Packard 56 terminals, easy find and cheap on ebay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So no interlock, etc? Basically power, switch, solenoid, etc, only?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,687 Posts
Yup. Even with all of the idiot proofing in the world, such a machine takes something very lacking in today's world to run and run safely
COMMON SENSE!!!!!!

and I will add.... Just because I did what I did to MY machine, doesn't necessarily make it right for anyone else to do the same thing to their machine.
And also, there are more than 1 way to skin a cat so to speak/ it very well could be wired up with safety's intact.... but the system ariens put in them originally. , is definitely way more complicated than what it needed to be. Add in "field fixes" over the years, a few hungry rodents, and that makes them an even bigger mess. It was easier for me to do what I did to have a usable machine. I am the only one who ever operates them, besides my son in his late 20s, and we know the dangers from a lifetime of living in the country, and working in industrial surroundings.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top